suggestions for modifications for trackday car
09-01-2017, 01:19 PM
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
suggestions for modifications for trackday car
I just purchased a car that seems a good candidate for a track day car. Not so nice that you'd be accused of molesting fine art... not totally clapped out mechanically.
High mileage, worn interior. Good exterior. Good brake pads/rotors. Shifts fine. Newer factory engine 12000 mi warrantee almost expired. $7500.
I'm hoping to get experienced advise on tactful and appropriate preparation and modifications to make it reliable as a trackday car. The goal is not to have the fastest 911 on the track, but to merely have a solid fun build. Different from past trackday builds, I'd like to not use a sawsall as my preferred tool. I'd like to have the "plausable impression" that I could return this to a street legal car... oh, and I'd like a passenger seat in this car so I could bring friends along for a ride.
Suspension:
OEM or poly bushings?
spring rate/ bar rates?
Are bilstiens adequate?
Are GT3 front control arms needed?
Baseline rideheight/ camber/toe setting?
Are OEM 18" wheels adequate? Are there any aftermarket trackworthy wheels that don't cost an arm or leg?
What tire sizes work well (DOT race)?
Brakes:
Supplier for rotors?
What pad combos work well?
Do you need ducting?
Are the hubs a problem?
Safety:
What race seat and seat-track work well?
Any electrical glitches with steering lock removal or master cut off switch?
Engine management:
Is the ecu tunable?
Cooling:
Center radiator needed with oem level power?
(specifics on manufacturer links/ part numbers would be most helpful)!
Thanks all!
09-01-2017, 02:44 PM
#4
Rennlist Member
Brakes:
-Motul600 or Castrol SRF Brake Fluid
-Stick rotors are fine but Sebro or Zimmerman work well for replacement
- there are lots of really good pads out there but I think Hawk DTC-70 are one of the best bang for the buck race pads. Pagid Yellow/black are a good combo as are PFC08s.
Suspension:
- 400#F/500#R is and aggressive combo setup a the way up to 800#F/900#R for stiff track setup
- GT3 front and rear sways with adjustable drop links
- Good set of shocks. I like Feal because they will do custom valving and springs based upon your application and their race package is only $1600 new. From my research they are only going to be a few 10ths slower than the $10k JRZ 3-way cups I'm currently running.
- busings, control arms, etc... Don't spend money to solve problems you don't have. These are all good for specific issues.
Tires/wheels:
- 245F/275R is very balanced. You can go up to 315 in the rear but won't gain anything from it.
- Pick a used set of OZ Alleggerita or some Carrera (BBS) MY02. Both can be found for around $1000. 8x18 et50 10x18 et65 or there abouts
-OS Gikken LSD is magical
Safety:
Roll bar
Harness
Hans
Race seat of your choice
Fire extinguisher
- Don't bother with a tune.
- Catless exhaust and muffler upgrade do help
- IPD plenum, throttle body, evo air intake have not proven to provide significant gains on the track.
I have a 2520# C2 with 265 rwhp that can get around the track faster than a C7 Z06, GT3 or 996 Cup. Track specific of course.
-Motul600 or Castrol SRF Brake Fluid
-Stick rotors are fine but Sebro or Zimmerman work well for replacement
- there are lots of really good pads out there but I think Hawk DTC-70 are one of the best bang for the buck race pads. Pagid Yellow/black are a good combo as are PFC08s.
Suspension:
- 400#F/500#R is and aggressive combo setup a the way up to 800#F/900#R for stiff track setup
- GT3 front and rear sways with adjustable drop links
- Good set of shocks. I like Feal because they will do custom valving and springs based upon your application and their race package is only $1600 new. From my research they are only going to be a few 10ths slower than the $10k JRZ 3-way cups I'm currently running.
- busings, control arms, etc... Don't spend money to solve problems you don't have. These are all good for specific issues.
Tires/wheels:
- 245F/275R is very balanced. You can go up to 315 in the rear but won't gain anything from it.
- Pick a used set of OZ Alleggerita or some Carrera (BBS) MY02. Both can be found for around $1000. 8x18 et50 10x18 et65 or there abouts
-OS Gikken LSD is magical
Safety:
Roll bar
Harness
Hans
Race seat of your choice
Fire extinguisher
- Don't bother with a tune.
- Catless exhaust and muffler upgrade do help
- IPD plenum, throttle body, evo air intake have not proven to provide significant gains on the track.
I have a 2520# C2 with 265 rwhp that can get around the track faster than a C7 Z06, GT3 or 996 Cup. Track specific of course.
09-01-2017, 03:30 PM
#5
Rennlist Member
Left off adjustable rear toe arms. After you lower it you will need them or at the very least the locking rear toe plates.
As far as alignment and ride height, it will depend on % of Street vs Track.
As far as alignment and ride height, it will depend on % of Street vs Track.
09-01-2017, 03:32 PM
#6
Drifting
I'll give you the advice I was given: replace the wear and maintenance items to make the car safe and get as much seat time as possible.
09-01-2017, 04:19 PM
#7
I'd recommend getting your basic maintenance (fluids, brakes, etc.) up to snuff, and get a good baseline alignment and a good set of tires. Try that out for a while and then think about what bothers you when you're driving and you wish was better. e.g. safety, seating, handling, brakes, etc.? Different driving styles will be rewarded by different upgrades.
I'm surprised nobody has told you yet that your engine will explode the moment you get within a 10-mile radius of a track.
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09-01-2017, 06:08 PM
#9
Racer
Thread Starter
Thx guys, Great info!
400/500, GT3 sways and up links, adj rear toe plates, 245/275 hoosiers, Hawk DTC 70's + Motul.
Looks like a good start. I'm going to have to look into the shock package a little. I've heard of Feal; sounds like they could put together a good budget package. I've used Penske's before and got lost chasing my tail with all of the adjustments. Presently using single adj MCS on the miata and like them alot... still they cost about as much as a used miata... I think I'll look into the Feal as you'd suggested.
Cat test-pipes available? Or, just hollow out the stock cats? It already has a factory sport exhaust... hoping that it's adequate.
Is the dealer installed wing functional? Or is it just there to look pretty... and slow you down?
It doesn't look as though engine mounts were changed when the re-man engine was installed. Are these a normal wear item to be changed? Do they clunk when they're bad, or cause the shifter to bind?
400/500, GT3 sways and up links, adj rear toe plates, 245/275 hoosiers, Hawk DTC 70's + Motul.
Looks like a good start. I'm going to have to look into the shock package a little. I've heard of Feal; sounds like they could put together a good budget package. I've used Penske's before and got lost chasing my tail with all of the adjustments. Presently using single adj MCS on the miata and like them alot... still they cost about as much as a used miata... I think I'll look into the Feal as you'd suggested.
Cat test-pipes available? Or, just hollow out the stock cats? It already has a factory sport exhaust... hoping that it's adequate.
Is the dealer installed wing functional? Or is it just there to look pretty... and slow you down?
It doesn't look as though engine mounts were changed when the re-man engine was installed. Are these a normal wear item to be changed? Do they clunk when they're bad, or cause the shifter to bind?
09-01-2017, 06:57 PM
#10
Drifting
Besides the recommendations above, the best modification is patience as you climb the learning curve, an open mind, and willingness to learn and listen to your instructor.
Nice car. You'll have a blast with it.
Nice car. You'll have a blast with it.
09-01-2017, 08:17 PM
#11
Race Car
oilpan baffle?
No experience, just regurgitating what I've seen others say....
No experience, just regurgitating what I've seen others say....
09-01-2017, 09:39 PM
#13
Racer
Thread Starter
Yes Joseph, an oil pan baffel would be good protection. I could add the small extension to the pan and pick-up to gain some extra oil volume at the same time.
I remember seeing a metal pan guard on one of the 911 rsa's running in my run group years back. I think he said it was oem.
BTW Rich, how do you like your PSS9's?
Yes David, I've never raced a rear engine car before at its limit. It must be kind of like controlling a swinging pendulum on the track. What I have noticed about my other 996 (?because of no weight up front?) is that the front end steers lightening fast... even in a high speed turn you can maneuver... unlike my other track day sedans that can take a set and plow thru the corner pretty well, but only can make small corrections. I think that the 996 must have a much lower front center of gravity... or maybe a more centralized mass... it "feels" more like it's pushing thru tire itself, not rolling over it.
BTW Rich, how do you like your PSS9's?
Yes David, I've never raced a rear engine car before at its limit. It must be kind of like controlling a swinging pendulum on the track. What I have noticed about my other 996 (?because of no weight up front?) is that the front end steers lightening fast... even in a high speed turn you can maneuver... unlike my other track day sedans that can take a set and plow thru the corner pretty well, but only can make small corrections. I think that the 996 must have a much lower front center of gravity... or maybe a more centralized mass... it "feels" more like it's pushing thru tire itself, not rolling over it.
Last edited by gtred; 09-01-2017 at 10:03 PM.
09-01-2017, 10:19 PM
#14
Rennlist Member
Yes Joseph, an oil pan baffel would be good protection. I could add the small extension to the pan and pick-up to gain some extra oil volume at the same time.
I remember seeing a metal pan guard on one of the 911 rsa's running in my run group years back. I think he said it was oem.
BTW Rich, how do you like your PSS9's?
Yes David, I've never raced a rear engine car before at its limit. It must be kind of like controlling a swinging pendulum on the track. What I have noticed about my other 996 (?because of no weight up front?) is that the front end steers lightening fast... even in a high speed turn you can maneuver... unlike my other track day sedans that can take a set and plow thru the corner pretty well, but only can make small corrections. I think that the 996 must have a much lower front center of gravity... or maybe a more centralized mass... it "feels" more like it's pushing thru tire itself, not rolling over it.
I remember seeing a metal pan guard on one of the 911 rsa's running in my run group years back. I think he said it was oem.
BTW Rich, how do you like your PSS9's?
Yes David, I've never raced a rear engine car before at its limit. It must be kind of like controlling a swinging pendulum on the track. What I have noticed about my other 996 (?because of no weight up front?) is that the front end steers lightening fast... even in a high speed turn you can maneuver... unlike my other track day sedans that can take a set and plow thru the corner pretty well, but only can make small corrections. I think that the 996 must have a much lower front center of gravity... or maybe a more centralized mass... it "feels" more like it's pushing thru tire itself, not rolling over it.
09-01-2017, 11:14 PM
#15
Rennlist Member
I forgot about the baffle. Good catch. I like the FVD baffle/deep sump.
The Sp996 guys lobbied pretty hard to get the MCS 2-way NR added to the spec and have been very pleased with their performance over the JRZ RS2. Like you said, Miata pricing but their perform very well.
David is right and everyone told me the same thing. But I was having too much fun tinkering with my car to listen. But the money I eventually spent on schools and coaching is where the biggest time gains came from. I will say that moving to NT01s and then slicks early allowed me to start learning the difference between slip and slide a whole lot quicker.
As for the 996, the secret is to trailbrake the crap out of it. On a slow corner, your braking point is almost to the Apex. And just about the time the rear end is about to slide out from underneath you, squeeze the throttle. She will grip and shoot out of the hole like nothing else.
The Sp996 guys lobbied pretty hard to get the MCS 2-way NR added to the spec and have been very pleased with their performance over the JRZ RS2. Like you said, Miata pricing but their perform very well.
David is right and everyone told me the same thing. But I was having too much fun tinkering with my car to listen. But the money I eventually spent on schools and coaching is where the biggest time gains came from. I will say that moving to NT01s and then slicks early allowed me to start learning the difference between slip and slide a whole lot quicker.
As for the 996, the secret is to trailbrake the crap out of it. On a slow corner, your braking point is almost to the Apex. And just about the time the rear end is about to slide out from underneath you, squeeze the throttle. She will grip and shoot out of the hole like nothing else.