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CDS72911: Yes, it seems to be a good deal as a "fixer-upper. I bought it from this nice lady:
The car has a lot of deferred maintenance. After all, it has 150k miles; everything is worn. Except the engine, which was replaced when a road hazard took out a radiator pipe, then the vehicle overheated before reaching a freeway exit (thank you Esurance!)
Slakker: So you trailbrake these cars to rotate? On other rwd cars I've used on/off throttle to point the car. These sound kind of like racing a fwd car, where you get the back to rotate; then catch it with throttle. Sounds like fun!
I think I'll begin by refreshing the suspension and mounts to get started. Any sources for bushings? The wevo engine mounts look perfect. Is there a transmission mount upgrade?; or just replace with stock? I'm looking at MCS vs. Feal shock options; MSChas a new "budget/non-remote" 2 way shock for $3450.... anyone try these? Also, do you buy the sways from the dealer? Or, is there an aftermarket vendor?
SWK6cup: Lastly, the shifter is sloppy. I found several oem and short shifter kits. Which combo would pair well with your recommended cable option?
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Slakker: So you trailbrake these cars to rotate? On other rwd cars I've used on/off throttle to point the car. These sound kind of like racing a fwd car, where you get the back to rotate; then catch it with throttle. Sounds like fun!
It's rear engine so it naturally wants to push. When you add throttle it's going to transfer weight (and grip) to the rear end. So for turn in, trailbraking transfers the weight to the front end giving you more grip to turn. It also lightens the rear end and its grip allowing it to come around easier. As stated, this is most applicable to low and mid speed corners.
As for rotating the rear end with the throttle, since the bulk of my spins and all of my tire wall inspections have come from throttle oversteer coming out of a corner, I can verify that it's possible to do that as well. It's just not as rewarding.
I don't have a lot of experience yet, but I was in the same boat with deferred maintenance including worn out mounts. I opted for the Function First rear (motor) mounts and the Rennline front (transmission) mount. They're both a less rigid setup than I'd use if it was going to be a track car, but higher durometer than stock. I'm trying to keep mine leaning toward a streetable setup.
On the suspension, I got a some good deals on the RL classifieds: PSS10 coilovers and MO30 sway bars.
Oh, and on the shifter, lots of choices, but I got the Numeric ball bearing shifter, and it is a piece of industrial art.
400/500, GT3 sways and up links, adj rear toe plates, 245/275 hoosiers, Hawk DTC 70's + Motul.
Looks like a good start. I'm going to have to look into the shock package a little. I've heard of Feal; sounds like they could put together a good budget package. I've used Penske's before and got lost chasing my tail with all of the adjustments. Presently using single adj MCS on the miata and like them alot... still they cost about as much as a used miata... I think I'll look into the Feal as you'd suggested.
Cat test-pipes available? Or, just hollow out the stock cats? It already has a factory sport exhaust... hoping that it's adequate.
Is the dealer installed wing functional? Or is it just there to look pretty... and slow you down?
It doesn't look as though engine mounts were changed when the re-man engine was installed. Are these a normal wear item to be changed? Do they clunk when they're bad, or cause the shifter to bind?
MCS 1W shocks are $2750 and they as you know are a great company to work with. They have service here in the states and a bunch of fast Porsche racecars to prove how much they are worth.
FYI, 3M window weld makes a perfect transmission mount insert. It's the right durometer (I think 70 IIRC). And for those that say it's a hack, you can still get the mount replaced the next time you do a transmission refresh.
Sorry but a toque biasing differential is useless in a track car. But a good plate type is the best and first performance upgrade that I would do. 996's are unstable in the rear under hard braking and the differential settles 90% of that out. I ran a Wavetrack for 2 months as it was already in the car when I got it, it was no help under braking and the lockup on corner exit was inconsistent. Replaced it with a Guard and the results were phenomenal.
Sorry but a toque biasing differential is useless in a track car. But a good plate type is the best and first performance upgrade that I would do. 996's are unstable in the rear under hard braking and the differential settles 90% of that out. I ran a Wavetrack for 2 months as it was already in the car when I got it, it was no help under braking and the lockup on corner exit was inconsistent. Replaced it with a Guard and the results were phenomenal.
I've got a guard in my car , great but expensive . Bang for the buck a wave track is a much better option than tracking a car with a stock open diff . You get off the line and out of corners much faster , especially with the wavetracs preloading , something a quaif diff and similar doesn't have .
A torque sensing diff isn't supposed to help on braking , it's not designed to, to expect this reflects a lack of understanding how the technology works.
is a guard plated diff better ? Yes
but to say a wavetrac is useless (compared with an open diff ) is simply not true .
Last edited by Vancouver996; 09-09-2017 at 12:05 PM.
If you are going to spend the money on a diff a plate is definitely worth the extra $900. The rear end instability under heavy braking is an issue in these cars. If you don't solve it now you will end up wanting to solve it later. Both Guards and OS Gikken make a great LSD but the Gikken is cheaper ($2090). And in the last 9 months, Gikken came out with a 996 LSD that is a direct fit and usually doesn't even require shims.
There were budget constraints in consideration . This is a $ 7500 car .
Plus a plated diff must be periodically rebuilt . Ok if doing it yourself , but if sending it to a shop , adds up . On my previous dedicated track car , twice a season .
On a budget , that 900 bucks would be better placed with a set of poly bushes . IMO .
Tracking a car on oem bushes , especially if they haven't been freshly done , in a multilink car , is not a great idea.
If you are going to track with a plated diff , guard will last much longer than the OS G diff , imo guard is the better choice , the longer life makes up for the greater initial outlay .
Back to the wavetrac option , it's affordable , never needs rebuilding ( should last as long as a stock open diff) , has a clever preload design a quaif doesn't , and on my previous car , gave me 2.5 seconds at brands hatch and similar at castle comb over the same car with a stock open diff . Bang for the buck , a great option.
Last edited by Vancouver996; 09-09-2017 at 08:50 PM.
I won't argue most of the points Van because you and I always seem to be on the opposite end of opinions. But I will tell you that when I went to swap my TB Diff(Quaife) for a Gikken, it was worn out and couldn't be rebuilt, even by the factory. Also, with 24 plates, the Gikken will absolutely last as long as the Guard and theoretically longer. But there is an 80 page thread somewhere that argues that one to death. Both are very good, very high quality options.
My car had the B&M short shift kit......many don't like it, but was fine for almost 13 years.......the biggest difference were the Numeric shift cables, tho.....like a rifle bolt action......
If budget stretches to it , I'd go with a plaited diff every time . On a budget , I think a wavetrac is a better option than a stock open diff.
Not sure we'd disagree on that .
I've got a guard in my car . The quality of support service alone makes it worth it for me.
Some might prefer the OSG . I found the twice a season rebuild a bit much .
Chocolate vs rocky road . A case for each .
Last edited by Vancouver996; 09-11-2017 at 02:55 PM.
09-05-2017, 03:05 PM
