So I bought an Ebay turbo kit for Wilson
#331
Rainman
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
you should consider adding heat shielding (or even a slightly larger diameter tube to fit around your actual exhaust tube, with an air gap) if you are going to run it around the front.
see subaru WRX exhaust system.
see subaru WRX exhaust system.
#333
Race Car
Thread Starter
It had to happen. Going to make a manifold "log".
Goodbye sweet Porsche headers. I'm sorry. You've always been good to Wilson & I. It is a sad day to chop you up. I'd better NOT SCREW THIS UP.
Goodbye sweet Porsche headers. I'm sorry. You've always been good to Wilson & I. It is a sad day to chop you up. I'd better NOT SCREW THIS UP.
#334
Rennlist Member
We're all wishing you luck! Can you find a cheap used pair? Maybe a shot one? These aren't cheap if they're good!
#337
Rennlist Member
You might want to look at Koolmat for heat shielding..also on E-Bay there is hushmat..might be worth looking into. just some extra info...real shame to cut up the header..I'd really consider doing something after the split..seems that going back to the head and coming out with new flanges and doing up the entire thing might be the way to go..don't they normally run the turbo feed under the engine pan and up to the other side of the engine? Lotsa heat shielding to keep the heat into the beast..
#339
Race Car
Thread Starter
Hello, figured I should get back to engine stuff. Here's pics of the bay today. Still lots to do. Going to complete the coolant management routing. Then fully mount the heat exchangers in front as they aren't 100percent mounted. Not feeling energetic today, so I'm hoping this post will obligate me to get off my butt.
#340
Race Car
Thread Starter
After getting the upper & lower rad hose sorted I timed the engine without a belt for now. Will lock the flywheel & torque the crank pulley to spec & install the belt. Followed by a couple rotations to see where it wants to rest. Then I will determine where tdc as accurately as possible.
Depth & timing are critical to determine the front crank pulley depth from the block, which is where the Hall effect sensor will be mounted.
Depth & timing are critical to determine the front crank pulley depth from the block, which is where the Hall effect sensor will be mounted.
#343
Rennlist Member
Why not just get one of these?
http://www.goingsuperfast.com/Trigger-wheels.html
I'm running one on my NA in combination with a hall effect sensor, never had issues in that area. It sits between the Vbelt pulley and balance shaft drive cog.
Ealoken, the stock sensors can be made to work but due to the high tooth count, a bespoke IC usually needs to be made to process them (usually involving a hardware divider or a dual VR conditioner). A lot of people have had issues with getting standalones to handle the high tooth correctly, although there are solutions.
http://www.goingsuperfast.com/Trigger-wheels.html
I'm running one on my NA in combination with a hall effect sensor, never had issues in that area. It sits between the Vbelt pulley and balance shaft drive cog.
Ealoken, the stock sensors can be made to work but due to the high tooth count, a bespoke IC usually needs to be made to process them (usually involving a hardware divider or a dual VR conditioner). A lot of people have had issues with getting standalones to handle the high tooth correctly, although there are solutions.
#344
The EMU technician made it, just needed some math
Why not just get one of these?
http://www.goingsuperfast.com/Trigger-wheels.html
I'm running one on my NA in combination with a hall effect sensor, never had issues in that area. It sits between the Vbelt pulley and balance shaft drive cog.
Ealoken, the stock sensors can be made to work but due to the high tooth count, a bespoke IC usually needs to be made to process them (usually involving a hardware divider or a dual VR conditioner). A lot of people have had issues with getting standalones to handle the high tooth correctly, although there are solutions.
http://www.goingsuperfast.com/Trigger-wheels.html
I'm running one on my NA in combination with a hall effect sensor, never had issues in that area. It sits between the Vbelt pulley and balance shaft drive cog.
Ealoken, the stock sensors can be made to work but due to the high tooth count, a bespoke IC usually needs to be made to process them (usually involving a hardware divider or a dual VR conditioner). A lot of people have had issues with getting standalones to handle the high tooth correctly, although there are solutions.