gnat

Some people like that stretched look.

At least until they have to corner sharply and chew up their rim due to no effective sidewall...

docmirror

Meh - it's the damage we can't see that will determine the value. If it was scrubbed wheel, they could have left it on for the tow. But - it appears damage enough that it wouldn't even go on the tow truck without a diff wheel.

As for my attitude, well - I hardly need to defend that. But - a 996 is kind of a bucket list, or at least a 'me want' kind of purchase. I'd be happy to drive a 1987 Dodge Omni that was salvage/rebuilt because - hey, who cares? Driving around in what most people consider a high end sports car with a branded title? Yeah, bug me. Not you - I'm ok with that.

Making assumptions on car body repairs is a good way to get hosed. I know a Ferrari F40 that was basically split in half, and was put back together and resold. Can it be done well? Sure. We're talking about a non-investment grade $20k car. Was someone going to spend $20-30k fixing it correctly? Meh

gnat

Wasn't an attack. Just saying I don't get it and laid the reasons why.

I guess I've just spent too much time around body shops and dealing with insurance that I know how little it can take to total a car. It's not like the older (80s and earlier) cars where totaling typically implied a catastrophic impact where the driver may not have walked away. So it just bewilders me that totaled cars get written off so easily.

Yeap which is why I clarified that my view was solely based on what we can see in that one pic. I've been around bodyshops too much and replaced almost all of the damaged parts shown on that pic, so my assumptions are actually based on practical experience in this case.

I could be way off if there is serious damage to one of the angles we can't see, but my gut says that's not the case based on what we see.

There isn't remotely 20-30k to fix that car (sans more evidence). If it was a shop that picked it up (don't know anything about the seller) that 10-12k guess of mine can easily come down between 5-7k due to markups getting cut and you'd pick some stuff up used (like the front fender and light housings).

If they got it for a good price they could do a quality repair and still be in it for only 12-15k. That all depends on what they picked it up for though.

Of course they could also have easily picked it up for a moderate price and then put lipstick on it rather than fix it properly. That is why you of course have a good body shop take a look as they can tell the difference between a good and bad repair.

I certainly wouldn't buy this car sight unseen or just based off a normal PPI, but I also wouldn't just write it off. That's all I'm saying. Due diligence is still king as it all things when buying a used car.

808Bill

Both have good points, thanks for the input!

docmirror

Yep, we're basically on the same page(cept for the attitude thing). So, you know the price of a Porsche right front fender for a 996 is about $660. But - I can buy a chinese fender for a Boxster for $179. I can buy a used fender off a Boxster from a wrecking yard for ~$160. Lather, rinse repeat for the rest of the bits. If the airbag went off, resolving that with Porsche new will be > $2400. But, I can stuff newspaper in the airbag hole, get a used controller, and bypass the sensors with a couple resistors. Total cost $240 and two hours work.

So, anyway what I see, is about 30% of the cost of what needs to be done. Go to Porsche, and it's an easy write-off. However, backyard Larry, with a torch, some putty, and access to a junk yard - it gets put back on the street and make a few bucks. Who knows? But - I still don't want a 996 with a salvage title because, I would know.

edited for accurate prices.

Kalashnikov

808Bill

From the seller,

"I replaced the rear right suspension in whole.

All control arms, full strut, and drive axle".

gnat

Which is exactly why you get it professionally assessed by someone that knows the cars.

There is also nothing wrong with pulling salvaged/used parts for the repair to do it on the cheap and that is exactly how you make money on something like this. Hell, even insurance companies will try to quote you using used parts or the knock offs if you aren't careful and watching them.

Rennlist Investigational Services to the rescue! Nothing is safe from RL

So this answers some more questions. It indeed appears to be restricted to the single side, but the wheels definitely tell a story. I had wrongly assumed that since it has the Carerra IIs now that those were what was on it, but we can see it was the GT3s.

So what I see here now is that it probably slid into something (curved barrier like at a track? just missed being t-boned and got tagged in the back which swung the front end around and into the hitting vehicle?) and the front and rear corners took the brunt.

What I see here is that it looks like a chunk of that rear wheel is missing which implies a significant hit (OEM wheels are pretty damn stout). Even with the rubber gone and it sitting on the rim, that wheel is pointing in a funny direction.

So with this new info I would say the book price for repairs was probably around $15k. Maybe more.

Based on that pic I'd bet that they picked it up around $6-8k or so which leaves 10-12k of space with their current asking price. I'd guess they are into it around $15k so we are looking around 8-9k spent on the rehab. If they have a good source for the parts and could do all their own labor at cost, it's still possible for it to be a legit repair.

Anyone interested in this car needs to have it looked at closely by both a mechanic and body shop with special attention paid to that rear corner. These cars are built like tanks back there to protect the engine so there is a good chance it's just mechanicals that needed to be replaced.

I'm shocked that it doesn't look like the airbags fired at all, though we can't see if maybe the passenger's door bag went off.

docmirror

..and bingo was his name-o.

808Bill

Now, assuming all the work was performed to spec, what else would one focus on other then bondo.

gnat

Mostly making sure it was indeed done to spec. Making sure there isn't any frame damage to that rear end. Making sure that for any of the mechanical parts that were replaced that new wear items (e.g. rubber/plastic bits) were replaced if it looks like he used salvage parts.

Basically this is a deal that has little margin (if everything was done to spec) so you need to look hard for cut corners.

What did it have, 80-90k on the clock? If he only replaced that one strut/spring and the others are original, that could have an impact on how it drives/handles/rides as the other 3 struts will be tired.

Kalashnikov

The stupid part of me likes the yellow car a lot. If it was in AZ, I would offer $15k for the car if repairs and PPI checked out.

808Bill

^That's exactly what I was thinking price wise.

SEADave

I agree, so long as the buyer is aware and has a qualified person check over the repairs what's the difference? In my area, it is hard to find any manual coupe for $18k, let alone a newer 3.6 car in a desirable color with an upgraded interior. The same money could likely buy a no-accident low-options 3.4 cab in black or silver if that's more important.

docmirror

Start with the chassis alignment specs. Each car has a detailed diagram giving the corner specs, locations, weights, etc. Next, if it comes close on the chassis locations, do a corner balance. Some of this can be adjusted with shock adjustment, but if the chassis has a twist to it, the two opposing wheels will have different weights on the balance scale(think of a piece of paper, then twist it a bit, and you can have the idea of bad corner weights). Then, door/fender gaps, door close latch alignment, roof open/close.