Rear 964 alignment adjustments, Camber and Toe
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Rear 964 alignment adjustments, Camber and Toe
Rooting around the suspension on my '91 964 yesterday I noticed my eccentrics and bolts settings for Camber and Toe, from drivers side to passenger side, are dramatically different. I normally don't pay attention to this but one would think that they would be similar settings on each side and not set at opposite extremes. This might be normal for all I know but doesn't make sense. Since I am going to take this in for a 4 wheel alignment anyway I'm just looking for comments to educate us.
Also, from what I read it seems like getting track settings on the rear is nearly impossible with stock set-up. Is an ERP Spring plate the only way to do it right? I need 2.8 to 3.1 camber for what I'm trying to do.
Thanks for your comments.
Pictures:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...ngs-964-a.html
Also, from what I read it seems like getting track settings on the rear is nearly impossible with stock set-up. Is an ERP Spring plate the only way to do it right? I need 2.8 to 3.1 camber for what I'm trying to do.
Thanks for your comments.
Pictures:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...ngs-964-a.html
#2
Rennlist Member
The ERP spring plates are awesome.
Some difference side to side is normal, just have to string it up and see.
Some difference side to side is normal, just have to string it up and see.
#3
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Is it true you really can't get to a decent camber without the ERP's and stock?
I would expect a difference from each side but I wasn't expecting opposite ends of the adjustment range!
I would expect a difference from each side but I wasn't expecting opposite ends of the adjustment range!
#6
It still looks like the spring plate has moved in relation to the adj bolts. I supppse it it possible they slipped. Looks odd to me I will courious to see what the alignment spec are before any adj is done
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#8
Rennlist Member
So, I've not tried. BUT, in talking with the guy who did my chassis work getting the toe/camber RIGHT is much easier with the spring plates. Like its very difficult w/o. The spring plates can be installed 2 ways (if you get ERP, Cary will explain the options) that allow for more camber/toe setups.
Are your swing arms monoball?
Are your swing arms monoball?
#9
Nordschleife Master
On the ERP 935-style monorail spring plates...
The slotted hole to the bottom = small camber range
The slotted hole to the top = large camber range
In my experience, I was only able to get about -1.3 degrees camber evenly on both sides w/ the slotted hole on the bottom. With the slotted hole on the top, I was able to get nearly -3.0 degrees camber.
Y'all can thank me for figuring that out and paying for two alignments. A few years ago even the Tarett site contained incorrect guidance regarding the installation of these pieces. They corrected it after I told them.
The slotted hole to the bottom = small camber range
The slotted hole to the top = large camber range
In my experience, I was only able to get about -1.3 degrees camber evenly on both sides w/ the slotted hole on the bottom. With the slotted hole on the top, I was able to get nearly -3.0 degrees camber.
Y'all can thank me for figuring that out and paying for two alignments. A few years ago even the Tarett site contained incorrect guidance regarding the installation of these pieces. They corrected it after I told them.
#10
Rennlist Member
^^^^ Awesome
Well the info
Not the 2 alignments thing
Well the info
Not the 2 alignments thing
#11
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
That is true. One of the vendors has a statement that the slot must be on top for 964's. They are finally catching on.
Thanks for the comments.
Thanks for the comments.
#12
Rennlist Member
If you want more camber with your stock components, swap the rear trailing arm plates from left to right. That moves the camber slot in the direction you want to go and can still get the toe you need.
Same thing they did on early Cup cars.
Same thing they did on early Cup cars.
#14
Rennlist Member
There is a "L" and "R" to denote each side stamped on the back where you can't see it, just flip them over and it moves the entire adjustment window more negative. I have usually had the engine and gearbox out when making that change, not sure if you can remove the front bolt with the gearbox in the way but if so its pretty easy.
#15
It's tight in there with the gearbox in but can be done. I cut a 2 to 3 inch piece off of an Allen key (was is 10mm? Don't recall the size) and used a box end wrench then a box end ratchet wrench. Plenty of room with those.