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With your background, you probably already know this:
Someone suggested tire pressures of 36/42 was a good starting point. Those pressures sound quite high to me as a starting point. You don't want to start with normal street pressures as your pressures will rise as the tire temp rises. Different brands of tires build heat and pressures differently depending on ambient temp and track temp so you'll have to experiment a little, i.e. get some advice from someone at the track that runs a C4. The other advice is good, but I wouldn't even start at anywhere near 36/42.
Yes, I will have to play with the pressures, I actually had 32/36 when I first mounted my tires, and the rears didn't feel as planted as 40+ I know - strange. I am not used to seeing such high OEM pressures!
I think I will drive there 36/42, and do 32/38 as my start off point. I have a compressor and calibrated gauge, so I will play with pressures as my day progresses.
My buddy is taking is ATS-V. Should be interesting.
I think i'm going to buy a 1 day track insurance from Lockton.
For a $24K coverage, it's $170 bucks for the day.
From reading reviews, the payout is painless. I know for a fact my insurance (geico, or any big name for that matter) no longer covers any type of HPDE events.
Take a torque wrench with you and check the lugs after first session, and every 2-3 after that. 96 ft/lbs. .
I thnk you should let them cool before retorquing. A guy broke a stud torquing hot wheels at my last track day.
I had my first DE days last summer. I too had lots of track experience at the particular track from MC. Different experience in car, although lines are mostly similar. My track is short and tight. I had zero issues with stock brake pads (with fresh Castrol racing fluid). Very addictive, be warned. Ive been lusting after a track car since.
Curious:
1. Why re-torque the wheels after a run? Do the lug bolts get hot and stretch?
2. No parking brake to avoid warping a hot rotor/emergency brake drum?
3. How much oil can you expect to use on a typical 20 run DE?
In a a Spin....BOTH FEET IN and come to a complete stop
If you don't hit the brakes hard to stop the car, there is a chance a tire can get traction and shoot you across the track.
Not Good
Originally Posted by Slakker
RBF600 is a really good idea. I didn't know that PSM effected the bleeding process but I use a motive power bleeder, frequently. Don't put brake fluid in it though, just use it to pressure the system, then take it off, add more fluid in the reservoir when it gets low, then pump it back up.
You'll probably gain 10-12 lbs on air temp so I'd start about 6lbs under your target pressure and check it after EVERY session. Also make sure you have a way to air the tires back up for the drive home.
Take a torque wrench with you and check the lugs after first session, and every 2-3 after that. 96 ft/lbs.
Pad sensors can be pulled out and zip tied to prevent wear on them.
Also, to prep, find some good videos of people racing on the track in similar cars and start memorizing their line. If you'll spend just 10min a day doing this for a week or two it will make the first day a much better experience.
Beside that, just relax and have fun. And remember, smooth is fast.
Oh ya, and always listen to Sneaky Pete. He's spot on.
Motul RBF 600 is a good brake fluid to you. Realistically, ATE 200 is probably fine as well for your needs
Originally Posted by IkoIko911
if your car is manual - take some tape and put it over the parking brake handle....
it is such a habit to pull that parking brake up when you stop your car........... but you really don't want to do that when you come off the track......... your mind will be elsewhere - so tape over the parking brake handle as a reminder!
Don't worry about using the parking brake on a modern Porsche like the 996. The older ones used the disk pads as an E brake and it could cause problems when very hot. Our cars have drum brakes for the E brake and if you apply it, its fine. Not using the E brake is an old lawn mower engine (air cooled) Porsche issue
Originally Posted by David993S
With your background, you probably already know this:
Someone suggested tire pressures of 36/42 was a good starting point. Those pressures sound quite high to me as a starting point. You don't want to start with normal street pressures as your pressures will rise as the tire temp rises. Different brands of tires build heat and pressures differently depending on ambient temp and track temp so you'll have to experiment a little, i.e. get some advice from someone at the track that runs a C4. The other advice is good, but I wouldn't even start at anywhere near 36/42.
Who ever told you to start with 36/42 for the track is nuts!!. 36/42 is probably high for hot temps from track use. I run different tires (RE-71s) and start at 24/26 cold and run around 30/32 hot YMMV
I assume you will be running the Roval at Fontana. Its a blast and the front straight into T1 &T2 is FAST!! You will especially like T3 where you go from 5th to 2nd and a hint for T9 is very late apex
Actually, the early Porsches used disc/drum brakes also (I have a '66 too). I was surprised to see that Porsche is still using that design as it is pretty heavy.
Drums will warp if clamped when hot but I wonder how hot they get as the only heat would be transfer from the disc.
I think i'm going to buy a 1 day track insurance from Lockton.
For a $24K coverage, it's $170 bucks for the day.
From reading reviews, the payout is painless. I know for a fact my insurance (geico, or any big name for that matter) no longer covers any type of HPDE events.
I agree with Jay, 36 / 42 tire pressure is WAY too high. Follow the numbers Jay gave you, or something similar to that. Fontana is a fun track. Figure out what line you want on the banked curve. For a 996, prolly somewhere in the middle. Do not drive on the lane seams on the bank, they are slipperier than the adjacent track. Similarly, avoid driving a line where your tires will be tracking the tar. Do NOT cross the white line at the bottom of the bank. The area at the bottom is at a different slope than the rest.
I am in the same boat. I have been doing mororcycle track days for years, and raced before that. As i get older i am leaning for 4 wheel track fun. I have been upgrading/ prepping my pcar for a spring track day. Good luck!
Be sure you have extra engine oil just in case you need to top up.
Be sure you have nothing loose in the cabin, under the seats, or in the door pockets, or in the center console or glove box. Something knocking about can be a distraction. And you don't want a water bottle rolling under the clutch or brake pedal at any time.
Try to run as "pure" racing gasoline as you can on the track. While the 100 octane is overkill racing gasoline brings more to the table that just big octane numbers.
With your motorcycle experience I'm sure you are very aware of this but be sure you take a cool down lap to give the engine/drivetrain/brakes time to shed some heat and then in the pit let the engine idle for a few minutes more to shed even more of its considerable heat load.
The parking brake I believe uses aluminum shoes against a cast iron "drum". With a cool down lap the brakes should be cool enough you can use the parking brake without any risk to the aluminum, but if you don't want to use the parking brake that's up to you. Just be sure to block the tires just in case for some reason the tranny doesn't stay in gear.
Drink plenty of water to keep hydrated. On my motorcycle I'd sweat buckets during a race.
In a a Spin....BOTH FEET IN and come to a complete stop
If you don't hit the brakes hard to stop the car, there is a chance a tire can get traction and shoot you across the track.
Not Good
Motul RBF 600 is a good brake fluid to you. Realistically, ATE 200 is probably fine as well for your needs
Don't worry about using the parking brake on a modern Porsche like the 996. The older ones used the disk pads as an E brake and it could cause problems when very hot. Our cars have drum brakes for the E brake and if you apply it, its fine. Not using the E brake is an old lawn mower engine (air cooled) Porsche issue
Who ever told you to start with 36/42 for the track is nuts!!. 36/42 is probably high for hot temps from track use. I run different tires (RE-71s) and start at 24/26 cold and run around 30/32 hot YMMV
I assume you will be running the Roval at Fontana. Its a blast and the front straight into T1 &T2 is FAST!! You will especially like T3 where you go from 5th to 2nd and a hint for T9 is very late apex
Have fun and be safe
Got it on the pressures. Does the C4 have different recommended pressures compared to C2, or the same? The RE71s are more aggressive (stiffer sidewalls?) than my S04s. I'll start mid range and adjust as I go through the day.
Originally Posted by DTMiller
What could possibly go wrong?
Ouch! Exactly why i'm buying track insurance for the day. While my 996 is just my toy car (not my DD) I would not want to come home like that!
Originally Posted by Jeremy Hazeltine
I am in the same boat. I have been doing mororcycle track days for years, and raced before that. As i get older i am leaning for 4 wheel track fun. I have been upgrading/ prepping my pcar for a spring track day. Good luck!
Thanks! I'm still going to do 2-wheel track days, but want to try something different.
Originally Posted by Macster
Be sure you have extra engine oil just in case you need to top up.
Be sure you have nothing loose in the cabin, under the seats, or in the door pockets, or in the center console or glove box. Something knocking about can be a distraction. And you don't want a water bottle rolling under the clutch or brake pedal at any time.
Try to run as "pure" racing gasoline as you can on the track. While the 100 octane is overkill racing gasoline brings more to the table that just big octane numbers.
With your motorcycle experience I'm sure you are very aware of this but be sure you take a cool down lap to give the engine/drivetrain/brakes time to shed some heat and then in the pit let the engine idle for a few minutes more to shed even more of its considerable heat load.
The parking brake I believe uses aluminum shoes against a cast iron "drum". With a cool down lap the brakes should be cool enough you can use the parking brake without any risk to the aluminum, but if you don't want to use the parking brake that's up to you. Just be sure to block the tires just in case for some reason the tranny doesn't stay in gear.
Drink plenty of water to keep hydrated. On my motorcycle I'd sweat buckets during a race.
Got it. I keep my car pretty bare, I do however have a toddler booster seat, i'll remove. But great reminder to go through my car again.
01-16-2017, 06:29 PM
