First trackday on the 996. Tips and/or advice?
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
First trackday on the 996. Tips and/or advice?
Excited to sign up for my first car trackday at Fontana!
Let me preface by saying, i've done over 10 years of motorcycle trackdays, and 3 years of motorcycle road racing--so i'm familiar with the track routine. I had done a bunch of SCCA Solo AutoX, 20 years ago, but you can say i'm still a newbie car driver -- even @ 40 years old!
I have a fully serviced and ready to go '01 C4, with brand new tires (S04s) and stock M030 suspension. The car has 57K on it.
I am currently running street pressures of 36f/42r, but I guess i'll adjust accordingly when i'm at the track. Not sure of ambient track temps at this point--never been to Fontana.
When I had the tires installed, I got a 'street' alignment (which really means 1.5 degrees of negative camber instead of -2. Toe is set to 0 f/r.
I have newish OEM brake pads, and coolant tank in perfect shape, as well as zero leaks of any kind, not even any signs of wetness from the RMS.
I will install my tow hook on the front bumper, and going through the self tech list, I don't see anything that sticks out on my car, that I need to address.
While I have the ability to tow my car to the track, I decided to drive it there and back (about 400-miles each way) I'm heading the day before the event, so I should be rested.
Is there anything else I should double/triple check on my car before heading out?
Let me preface by saying, i've done over 10 years of motorcycle trackdays, and 3 years of motorcycle road racing--so i'm familiar with the track routine. I had done a bunch of SCCA Solo AutoX, 20 years ago, but you can say i'm still a newbie car driver -- even @ 40 years old!
I have a fully serviced and ready to go '01 C4, with brand new tires (S04s) and stock M030 suspension. The car has 57K on it.
I am currently running street pressures of 36f/42r, but I guess i'll adjust accordingly when i'm at the track. Not sure of ambient track temps at this point--never been to Fontana.
When I had the tires installed, I got a 'street' alignment (which really means 1.5 degrees of negative camber instead of -2. Toe is set to 0 f/r.
I have newish OEM brake pads, and coolant tank in perfect shape, as well as zero leaks of any kind, not even any signs of wetness from the RMS.
I will install my tow hook on the front bumper, and going through the self tech list, I don't see anything that sticks out on my car, that I need to address.
While I have the ability to tow my car to the track, I decided to drive it there and back (about 400-miles each way) I'm heading the day before the event, so I should be rested.
Is there anything else I should double/triple check on my car before heading out?
#2
Double check that all your wheel bolts are tight, fluids are topped off, and before you go out on track check that the trunk is shut tightly. I've seen people do dumb stuff like empty their trunk and/or check brake fluid under the trunk lid, then forget to shut it securely, and on the first lap at speed it flies up and hits the windshield...not good!
Between sessions check all your fluid levels and adjust your tire pressures as needed. Your 36/42 pressures are a safe starting point. Keep an eye on your brake pads too; OEM pads can disappear rapidly at track days, so just glance at them after every session to make sure you aren't running out of brakes.
Each session I'd focus more on finding a good, consistent line, and getting comfortable with the car's handling, rather than going for a lap time. In any fast turns, work your speed up gradually so that you don't get to a place where you're tempted to lift mid-corner; make sure you can accelerate through the turn to keep the car planted until you're more comfortable. The only way you're going to get into real trouble in this car is if you don't leave enough braking distance for a slow turn, or lift abruptly in a fast turn. Both can be easily avoided by planning ahead and only adding speed gradually.
Remember that you are driving your car back home! If something looks/feels/sounds/smells funny, stop and check it out before it becomes a real problem. If you aren't feeling comfortable and safe, stop and take a breath. Your instructor should help you stay within the limits of the car and yourself. I'm sure you already know all this from the motorcycle track work!
HAVE FUN! Track days can be a huge blast if everything goes your way and you have the right attitude, or they can quickly become a nightmare if you have problems or choose to focus on anything negative.
I wish it was warm enough here to go to a track! Couple more months of waiting for me...
Between sessions check all your fluid levels and adjust your tire pressures as needed. Your 36/42 pressures are a safe starting point. Keep an eye on your brake pads too; OEM pads can disappear rapidly at track days, so just glance at them after every session to make sure you aren't running out of brakes.
Each session I'd focus more on finding a good, consistent line, and getting comfortable with the car's handling, rather than going for a lap time. In any fast turns, work your speed up gradually so that you don't get to a place where you're tempted to lift mid-corner; make sure you can accelerate through the turn to keep the car planted until you're more comfortable. The only way you're going to get into real trouble in this car is if you don't leave enough braking distance for a slow turn, or lift abruptly in a fast turn. Both can be easily avoided by planning ahead and only adding speed gradually.
Remember that you are driving your car back home! If something looks/feels/sounds/smells funny, stop and check it out before it becomes a real problem. If you aren't feeling comfortable and safe, stop and take a breath. Your instructor should help you stay within the limits of the car and yourself. I'm sure you already know all this from the motorcycle track work!
HAVE FUN! Track days can be a huge blast if everything goes your way and you have the right attitude, or they can quickly become a nightmare if you have problems or choose to focus on anything negative.
I wish it was warm enough here to go to a track! Couple more months of waiting for me...
#4
Racer
Thread Starter
Double check that all your wheel bolts are tight, fluids are topped off, and before you go out on track check that the trunk is shut tightly. I've seen people do dumb stuff like empty their trunk and/or check brake fluid under the trunk lid, then forget to shut it securely, and on the first lap at speed it flies up and hits the windshield...not good!
Between sessions check all your fluid levels and adjust your tire pressures as needed. Your 36/42 pressures are a safe starting point. Keep an eye on your brake pads too; OEM pads can disappear rapidly at track days, so just glance at them after every session to make sure you aren't running out of brakes.
Each session I'd focus more on finding a good, consistent line, and getting comfortable with the car's handling, rather than going for a lap time. In any fast turns, work your speed up gradually so that you don't get to a place where you're tempted to lift mid-corner; make sure you can accelerate through the turn to keep the car planted until you're more comfortable. The only way you're going to get into real trouble in this car is if you don't leave enough braking distance for a slow turn, or lift abruptly in a fast turn. Both can be easily avoided by planning ahead and only adding speed gradually.
Remember that you are driving your car back home! If something looks/feels/sounds/smells funny, stop and check it out before it becomes a real problem. If you aren't feeling comfortable and safe, stop and take a breath. Your instructor should help you stay within the limits of the car and yourself. I'm sure you already know all this from the motorcycle track work!
HAVE FUN! Track days can be a huge blast if everything goes your way and you have the right attitude, or they can quickly become a nightmare if you have problems or choose to focus on anything negative.
I wish it was warm enough here to go to a track! Couple more months of waiting for me...
Between sessions check all your fluid levels and adjust your tire pressures as needed. Your 36/42 pressures are a safe starting point. Keep an eye on your brake pads too; OEM pads can disappear rapidly at track days, so just glance at them after every session to make sure you aren't running out of brakes.
Each session I'd focus more on finding a good, consistent line, and getting comfortable with the car's handling, rather than going for a lap time. In any fast turns, work your speed up gradually so that you don't get to a place where you're tempted to lift mid-corner; make sure you can accelerate through the turn to keep the car planted until you're more comfortable. The only way you're going to get into real trouble in this car is if you don't leave enough braking distance for a slow turn, or lift abruptly in a fast turn. Both can be easily avoided by planning ahead and only adding speed gradually.
Remember that you are driving your car back home! If something looks/feels/sounds/smells funny, stop and check it out before it becomes a real problem. If you aren't feeling comfortable and safe, stop and take a breath. Your instructor should help you stay within the limits of the car and yourself. I'm sure you already know all this from the motorcycle track work!
HAVE FUN! Track days can be a huge blast if everything goes your way and you have the right attitude, or they can quickly become a nightmare if you have problems or choose to focus on anything negative.
I wish it was warm enough here to go to a track! Couple more months of waiting for me...
I've never been the guy always wrenching in the pits - I like to be well prepared so I can just enjoy the day.
That said, i'll bring my jack, some stands, and tools for wheel removal (just in case)
Last thing, PSM on or off? Again, I consider myself a novice performance driver, and I kinda like having the aid on - for those oversteer pucker moments, but I don't want it to be super invasive.
#7
Racer
Thread Starter
I assume the Porsche bleed process is like any other car, start with driver, and work my way 'round? I have a mityvac to help things get going.
[EDIT] nevermind, looks like with PSM, I need to find a PST2 to bleed. May just have a shop do this for me.
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#8
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Saratoga Springs, NY
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Even though you are familiar with track protocol, pack a smile, listen to your instructor, make sure you drink fluids and a bit of sugar (helps the brain), you might be more mentally exhausted than you realize. Also, wiggle your fingers on a straight-a-way, (helps to get rid of death grip) and BREATHE, there is a lot going on......enjoy! It is highly addictive and you should meet some great people!
#9
Is it a 1-day event or 2-day weekend? If only 1 day, you'll be fine on pads since you say they're pretty new. If it's a 2-day event, you'll probably still be fine, but a backup set wouldn't hurt. I don't know how demanding Fontana is on brakes, but killing a set of OE pads in 2 days is not unheard of. But honestly I'd just sort of take stock of things after each session, and if it seems like you are consuming all your pads, maybe take a step back and think about whether you can back off on your braking, and make sure you don't have any dragging calipers or anything. If you eat a whole set of brakes your first event, you're probably overdriving the car.
The wear sensors can be transferred to new pads IF you replace the pads before they get so thin that the sensors are destroyed It also won't hurt anything to drive without wear sensors; I've deleted them from my car since I check pads extremely frequently anyway. You have to short the wires out though, to avoid having a warning light on all the time. Something to do on leisure time; not a great track-side mod to be performing.
Leave PSM on for at least your first couple sessions. As you build speed, if you see that light flicker and feel it cutting power, you know that's a spot on the track where, at least in the car's mind, you are overcooking it. I've found it to be pretty non-invasive on most tracks, but there are usually one or two corners where it flickers, and might cut power on exit and slow me down. It lets you know that once you turn the nannies off, that's a spot you need to be on your game to avoid wheelspin or too much slip angle. It's actually a pretty valuable coaching tool just to give you a little heads-up, like "hey, **** might get real here if you have to make a mid-corner adjustment or something". Remember it's all fun and games when you're on the perfect line, but if you're bumping up against PSM and then you have to alter your line because of traffic, debris, oil, whatever, suddenly you're on a new line and your margin of safety could be gone. Just like I said burned up brakes indicate overdriving, if you're constantly tripping PSM, you're probably driving a bad line, or being choppy with the controls, and should reconsider your approach in that corner. These cars don't have enough power that you should need constant help from PSM. I normally run 1-2 sessions with it on just to get warmed up, especially at a new track, and then if everything seems pretty safe I switch it off. Again, unfortunately switching it off means you have a constant warning light on, so you'll need to just get used to tuning that one out, while remaining aware of any others that may come on!
The wear sensors can be transferred to new pads IF you replace the pads before they get so thin that the sensors are destroyed It also won't hurt anything to drive without wear sensors; I've deleted them from my car since I check pads extremely frequently anyway. You have to short the wires out though, to avoid having a warning light on all the time. Something to do on leisure time; not a great track-side mod to be performing.
Leave PSM on for at least your first couple sessions. As you build speed, if you see that light flicker and feel it cutting power, you know that's a spot on the track where, at least in the car's mind, you are overcooking it. I've found it to be pretty non-invasive on most tracks, but there are usually one or two corners where it flickers, and might cut power on exit and slow me down. It lets you know that once you turn the nannies off, that's a spot you need to be on your game to avoid wheelspin or too much slip angle. It's actually a pretty valuable coaching tool just to give you a little heads-up, like "hey, **** might get real here if you have to make a mid-corner adjustment or something". Remember it's all fun and games when you're on the perfect line, but if you're bumping up against PSM and then you have to alter your line because of traffic, debris, oil, whatever, suddenly you're on a new line and your margin of safety could be gone. Just like I said burned up brakes indicate overdriving, if you're constantly tripping PSM, you're probably driving a bad line, or being choppy with the controls, and should reconsider your approach in that corner. These cars don't have enough power that you should need constant help from PSM. I normally run 1-2 sessions with it on just to get warmed up, especially at a new track, and then if everything seems pretty safe I switch it off. Again, unfortunately switching it off means you have a constant warning light on, so you'll need to just get used to tuning that one out, while remaining aware of any others that may come on!
#10
Also be extremely wary of other drivers particularly during the first and last session of the day. People tend to get a little excited in the beginning, and a little tired at the end.
First sessions: OOOH RACETRACK, TIME TO GO FAST, LET'S TURN OFF ALL GOOD DECISION-MAKING SKILLS!
Middle sessions: Safe, focused learning time for everybody.
Last session: LAST CHANCE TO SET THAT MAGIC LAP TIME, HOLD MY BEER AND WATCH THIS!!
First sessions: OOOH RACETRACK, TIME TO GO FAST, LET'S TURN OFF ALL GOOD DECISION-MAKING SKILLS!
Middle sessions: Safe, focused learning time for everybody.
Last session: LAST CHANCE TO SET THAT MAGIC LAP TIME, HOLD MY BEER AND WATCH THIS!!
#11
Rennlist Member
RBF600 is a really good idea. I didn't know that PSM effected the bleeding process but I use a motive power bleeder, frequently. Don't put brake fluid in it though, just use it to pressure the system, then take it off, add more fluid in the reservoir when it gets low, then pump it back up.
You'll probably gain 10-12 lbs on air temp so I'd start about 6lbs under your target pressure and check it after EVERY session. Also make sure you have a way to air the tires back up for the drive home.
Take a torque wrench with you and check the lugs after first session, and every 2-3 after that. 96 ft/lbs.
Pad sensors can be pulled out and zip tied to prevent wear on them.
Also, to prep, find some good videos of people racing on the track in similar cars and start memorizing their line. If you'll spend just 10min a day doing this for a week or two it will make the first day a much better experience.
Beside that, just relax and have fun. And remember, smooth is fast.
Oh ya, and always listen to Sneaky Pete. He's spot on.
You'll probably gain 10-12 lbs on air temp so I'd start about 6lbs under your target pressure and check it after EVERY session. Also make sure you have a way to air the tires back up for the drive home.
Take a torque wrench with you and check the lugs after first session, and every 2-3 after that. 96 ft/lbs.
Pad sensors can be pulled out and zip tied to prevent wear on them.
Also, to prep, find some good videos of people racing on the track in similar cars and start memorizing their line. If you'll spend just 10min a day doing this for a week or two it will make the first day a much better experience.
Beside that, just relax and have fun. And remember, smooth is fast.
Oh ya, and always listen to Sneaky Pete. He's spot on.
#12
if your car is manual - take some tape and put it over the parking brake handle....
it is such a habit to pull that parking brake up when you stop your car........... but you really don't want to do that when you come off the track......... your mind will be elsewhere - so tape over the parking brake handle as a reminder!
it is such a habit to pull that parking brake up when you stop your car........... but you really don't want to do that when you come off the track......... your mind will be elsewhere - so tape over the parking brake handle as a reminder!
#14
Drifting
With your background, you probably already know this:
Someone suggested tire pressures of 36/42 was a good starting point. Those pressures sound quite high to me as a starting point. You don't want to start with normal street pressures as your pressures will rise as the tire temp rises. Different brands of tires build heat and pressures differently depending on ambient temp and track temp so you'll have to experiment a little, i.e. get some advice from someone at the track that runs a C4. The other advice is good, but I wouldn't even start at anywhere near 36/42.
Someone suggested tire pressures of 36/42 was a good starting point. Those pressures sound quite high to me as a starting point. You don't want to start with normal street pressures as your pressures will rise as the tire temp rises. Different brands of tires build heat and pressures differently depending on ambient temp and track temp so you'll have to experiment a little, i.e. get some advice from someone at the track that runs a C4. The other advice is good, but I wouldn't even start at anywhere near 36/42.
#15
Rennlist Member
Aim for something cheap
There is no shame in point-bys
have fun
Not a race
Don't lift
Your brakes are better than you think they are
Breathe
Not a race
As noted above, don't be pulling up the brake handle when you pit between runs
Have fun
Not a race
There is no shame in point-bys
have fun
Not a race
Don't lift
Your brakes are better than you think they are
Breathe
Not a race
As noted above, don't be pulling up the brake handle when you pit between runs
Have fun
Not a race