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The rod-end sleeves tarret sells are made by a company called seals-it. Go to their website and look for rod end boots.
If I remember correctly, tarret only carries one size boot. Which is rers1 at sealsit. For the front end links tarter sells, you would need rers1 and the next size up, rers2....and looking at the erp spring plates, my guess would be you need the rers2 size, which - at least last year - tarret didn't provide.
While you are at seals-it website, grab the tool to install the boots. You will be much less likely to rip them getting them on. You can see examples of this on the suspension madness thread...god only knows where at this point cuz it was soooooo long...
Get some synthetic lube that's rubber safe and fill the boots and pack the rod end prior to install. That will give you more longevity.
Would anyone know the spec or where I could get the spec of the end joints.
I feel like I would rather have a go at making my own seeing as how expensive they are and how relatively simple they appear to be.
yep. The bushings from the front-wishbones were easy going. The bunshing in the rear were a little bit more tricky...
Glad, the FVD unibal bushings in the rear fits in without using a press or something. It`s a perfect fittment from both adaptor bushings and the getting fixed by the golden ring ("Sprengring" in german...). Really good design!
For what it's worth, I'm restoring a C2 and setting it up as my first DE 911 that will also see a good bit of street usage. Based on past experiences with poly, rubber, monoballs/heim/rose joints in other applications, and a whole lot of reading of Goughary, Bill, and the other resident gurus, I decided to go this route:
RS Hardness Elephant Front Wishbone Bushings Inner & Outer
Eisenhower Monoball Outer Tie Rods
RSR Inner Tie Rods
Elephant Rear Control Arm Bushing (this one hurt $$$)
Elephant Spring Plate Insert
Aluminum Top Hats on all 4 corners
Tarett Monoball Sway Bar End Links
Poly Steering Rack Brace (only option I could find)
? Poly Sway Bar Bushings (haven't ordered these yet, trying to find out if RS bushings are stiffer than stock)
If I decide to make it a dedicated track car, I'll buy a street only 964 (Targa?) and swap the front and rear arms over to that car, and put monoballs in the second car arms and move them to this one.
Would anyone know the spec or where I could get the spec of the end joints.
I feel like I would rather have a go at making my own seeing as how expensive they are and how relatively simple they appear to be.
This is the actual joint itself.
FK JM Series Rod Ends JM12T
Rod End, JM Series, 3-Piece, Low Carbon Steel, PTFE Lined, Male 3/4 in.-16 RH Thread, 0.750 in. Bore, Each http://m.summitracing.com/parts/fkb-jm12t
You're still going to have to source the bushing/ fitting that goes on the bolt where it attaches to the unibody. And the female end attached to the spring plate and the standard + reverse thread piece that goes between the spring plate and the ball joint that allows the piece to be adjusted like a tie-rod. Unless you want to retain the toe alignment provisions on the spring plate itself using eccentrics (OE style).
hi guys,
the car is going to the workshop during the next days.
They`ve to do some stuff and to fit my suspension parts to the car.
Question is: all about alignment!
I do not daily drive my car, i do some trackdays (4) per year and i drive round about 5tKM per year with this car. The car needs to have the capabilities, to go flat out on german autobahn for a longer period of time, so crazy camber numbers are not possible.. Everything above 2° is said to be critical.
At the moment the car has the usual:
F: nearly zero toe, ~2° neg camber
R: 20' toe and 1.45° camber
While reading some posts about suspension here at rennlist i realized, that some of you guys do more camber in the rear than in the front?! What`s the reason behind this? I`ve never seen this in germany...
I guess, my to values are "good", also with the new, unibal suspension bushings.
But what to do with the camber. I`ve RS-Springs and CUP dampers with H&R/RS-sways. 2,25° in the front and the same at the rear end? less at the rear end (for example 2°) or up to 2.5° in the rear (and perhaps decrease camber at the front down to 2°).
For alignment- I'm of the mindset that unless I'm on a track racing someone with an equal car, and trying to eek out a tenth of a second in a lap time, absolute limits of adhesion aren't important...so I go for "feel" where I'm driving the most, which is street, and balance. My car feels best on street without a lot of negative camber, and zero toe. So if it were me, I'd recommend zero to very little rear toe. Zero front toe. Max caster or close to it, negative 0.5 camber front and negative 0.5-1 camber rear.
Then adjust your swaybars and dampeners to match. And enjoy the car.
Race cars feel like crap unless they are racing. So whatever you do, set it up how you will enjoy it most.
For alignment- I'm of the mindset that unless I'm on a track racing someone with an equal car, and trying to eek out a tenth of a second in a lap time, absolute limits of adhesion aren't important...so I go for "feel" where I'm driving the most, which is street, and balance. My car feels best on street without a lot of negative camber, and zero toe. So if it were me, I'd recommend zero to very little rear toe. Zero front toe. Max caster or close to it, negative 0.5 camber front and negative 0.5-1 camber rear.
Then adjust your swaybars and dampeners to match. And enjoy the car.
Race cars feel like crap unless they are racing. So whatever you do, set it up how you will enjoy it most.
Goughary - I've always read that the 20' (0.34⁰) total rear toe in is mainly for stability under braking. Wouldn't this be important to maintain on the street?
For alignment- I'm of the mindset that unless I'm on a track racing someone with an equal car, and trying to eek out a tenth of a second in a lap time, absolute limits of adhesion aren't important...so I go for "feel" where I'm driving the most, which is street, and balance. My car feels best on street without a lot of negative camber, and zero toe. So if it were me, I'd recommend zero to very little rear toe. Zero front toe. Max caster or close to it, negative 0.5 camber front and negative 0.5-1 camber rear.
Then adjust your swaybars and dampeners to match. And enjoy the car.
Race cars feel like crap unless they are racing. So whatever you do, set it up how you will enjoy it most.
thx for your feedback, but this camber is to "soft". Even my convertilbe has round about 2deg camber in the front and it`s fine. The blue car has to be very sharp and precise..
Toe is clear. F -> zero, R -> 20'. Caster -> max.
Question is still the camber... i need something around 2°... the question is, if i should go with the "US" route an test more camber in the rear than in the front...
What does this do with the car, when i have 2° camber in the front and 2.5° in the rear? How will the car behave during cornering?
What does this do with the car, when i have 2° camber in the front and 2.5° in the rear? How will the car behave during cornering?
thx
It will induce more understeer. That's how a lot of cars are setup from the factory for insurance purposes. Probably not an issue on the street, but could be frustrating on a track.
Keep in mind when you add heavy sway bars, stiffer springs, and stiffen the compression and rebound of the struts, plus a strut tower brace...
And then add that you are on street tires, the car won't lean much. Maybe if you are driving hard enough to get some heat in the tires, it'll start to lean...but unless the car is leaning, it doesn't need a lot of negative camber to keep the contact patch square and flat on the road.
So be careful to match the negative camber to the driving style and the other components in the suspension...
Regardless - try some things out and see what works for you.
12-05-2016, 10:47 AM
