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I'm looking for advice on reliability mods for fast driving in HPDE events.
I have a 2000 C2 Aero that I intend on doing a couple of DE's with on street tires only. So far the car is stock besides PSS10's and Wheels. I noticed the oil pressure gauge drop from 4 bar to about 2 when making right hand turns at higher RPM (4K-6K) This was a real surprise as I'm only using HTRZ-III street tires!
I drive fast but I'm pretty sympathetic to the engine...shifting at 6500 rpm or lower, watching the temps, etc. What are the typical modifications I should do for just DE use with street tires. I don't want to turn this into a race car, I have another car for that purpose..but the 911 was so fun I can't wait to take it out a few more times.
I'm thinking 3rd radiator upgrade (or CSF upgrade for the twins), FVD or EBS oil baffle...anything else?
I've recommended and used the Mantis pan for the past 5 years or so and never had an issue. The extra capacity as well as the windage tray are very key in my opinion.
Tracked mine for years, now. I run Hoosiers. Deep sump oil pan and x51 baffle...... u should be fine. No third radiator, but I run in the Northeast. Gl
My 997.1 does the same thing. I have the Mantis Sport 1.2 Liter sump with windage tray and it still does it on hard right turns. I attribute it to location of the factory pressure sending unit. I plan on trying some DT40 on my next event and see if that helps. Otherwise, I may have to go with an Accusump system to give me peace of mind. Keep in mind that Bar 2 is still 28 PSI so it's not as bad as it seems.
The only thing I don't like about the Mantis is that it seems to still use the cheap plastic baffle. Also Hella Buggin noticing it still is showing a drop in pressure?
Flat 6 innovations told me the location of the oil pressure sender is causing the symptom that I'm seeing as well. But why does the location of the sender matter if it's a closed system?? Pressure is pressure, I'm I'm seeing a loss of pressure on one side of the engine, that should mean I'm seeing a loss of pressure period. Please someone enlighten me if I'm wrong.
The main reason I went with the deep sump was that I was having oil aeration issues that was leading to oil ingestion by overwhelming the AOS. On the track my car seems to be happier in that regard running at the lower end of the oil fill indicator. The mantis gives me more oil, and moves the oil pick up down a bit so even though the indicator reads one bar up from the minimum, I'm actually running more oil. Plus the windage tray helps cut down on the aeration.
The oil pressure sensor sits on top of the head above cylinder #6. All the way at the front of the engine and my understanding is that it's measuring the end of the oil passage through what equates to a pin hole sized opening. It wasn't designed to measure what we're asking it to do but rather to give a baseline pressure.
I've always wanted to ask this question in relation to oil pans... I run a 996.2 with orig. X51 motor in advanced groups 10x a year.
Would an aftermarket/deep sump pan be beneficial or is the stock X51 pan up to the task of regular tracking??
A deep sump would be beneficial. If you went with Mantis you would reuse your X51 baffle. The main reason the X51 motor holds up better than a stock motor is not so not much because of the baffle, its the dual scavenge pumps that make the difference.
Does anyone have any data points of which pan works better than the other by any chance? The only evidence was Hella-buggin' indicated pressure drop as shown on the guage even after the pan install. Anyone else notice the gauge staying rock solid after X,Y,Z mod?
I went with the mantis for a few reasons. The LN kit is just a spacer and seems more complicated than a one piece unit. The FVD unit isn't really available for the 3.8 S engine. Mantis is also a race sop and has done extensive real world testing and has published the results. Since my pressure drop occurred before and after, I can only assume it's due to the inadequate pressure sensor or overall pump / galley design.