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@kvdt - where did you find the titan product? Was the primerless the reason you went that route?
There's a few guys selling pairs of Sika Titan P2G tubes on eBay. *Maybe* I could find it locally, but I've spent too many afternoons driving around this city trying to find something 'easy', and running into road blocks - minimum order quantities, clueless counter guys, etc.
Primerless was a factor. One less thing to screw-up/worry about.
Plus a number of people in this thread and others were having difficulty with the 3M products working.
Someone mentioned Sika ASAP which is supposed to be applied HOT, but I also couldn't find it on eBay. Another suggested Sika 256, but it seemed to be an older product - maybe superseded by the Sika Titan P2G?
There's a few guys selling pairs of Sika Titan P2G tubes on eBay. *Maybe* I could find it locally, but I've spent too many afternoons driving around this city trying to find something 'easy', and running into road blocks - minimum order quantities, clueless counter guys, etc.
Primerless was a factor. One less thing to screw-up/worry about.
Plus a number of people in this thread and others were having difficulty with the 3M products working.
Someone mentioned Sika ASAP which is supposed to be applied HOT, but I also couldn't find it on eBay. Another suggested Sika 256, but it seemed to be an older product - maybe superseded by the Sika Titan P2G?
The shop that did mine swore by the DOW self-etching stuff. Seems to be working....
I've ordered the Sika Titan P2G goop. It's primerless, and should be easier to use than messing around with multiple products.
Updates to follow in a week or so.
I'm in the same exact boat and am also using the Sika Titan P2G. We probably bought from the same seller on ebay! I'm doing the full separation and reseal, and am taking my time. The hatch is off and the trim and wing removed (I had to drill out the screws holding the wing on...)
My reading of the Sika documentation is that P2G stands for Primerless to Glass, and if you plan on doing full urethane removal from the frame, you need to use primer on that side. I got the Primer 207 and the Aktivator Pro prep chemical in addition to the urethane. I'm not sure if i really need to go whole hog, but I figure I only want to do this once...
I'm almost at the halfway point for resealing the hatch.
Once I get everything clean and prepped for the adhesive, with frame set in car, how should the glass fit inside the frame? Should there be zero gap at the top, with a big gap at the bottom? Split the difference?
Whoever performed the previous reseal appears to have re-glued the glass with the frame off the car, so everything is skewed. I have no good reference of how it should look. It appears they even had to elongate the holes for the spoiler trim so everything would fit.
There were also some kind of 'spacer' which looked like old gasket attached to the hinge face. Doesn't look factory - anyone else have this?
Kvdr - sorry I can't offer any information. I'm gonna do my glad in the next month. I did successfully get the timing belt done and the glass reseal is next. Good luck & hopefully someone will chime in!
Hey guys, after some research I bought the following (as others have done)
Sika Aktivator Pro
Sika Primer 206 G+P
Sika Titan P2G
ASI 0240 Adhesive Cleaner (for any potential silicon)
I like Titan because it can go on cold, but beware, it evidently is very hard to get out of a typical caulk gun and an electric or pneumatic gun in suggested.
As for the Titan urethane bonding to the frame, the application literature state that you should leave approx. 1-2mm of original urethane on the frame. Urethane bonds to Urethane evidently. Our separation happens at the glass. Which leads me to my next question: If Titan P2G doesn't require a black primer (such as Sika 206 P+G) then how will you had any irregularities when the sealant "squishes" out?
For that matter, do you need to use clamps to secure the glass to the frame considering this sealant is VERY stiff, or do you just set the glass on top, around edges for even spacing, tap it down with a rubber mallet and allow to cure (min. 2-4 hours drive away time)? I do intend to place glass on frame once frame is on the car, seem you would get a better fit.
I just read through all the Sika documentation today. I didn't buy the other Sika products, so hopefully my P2G works well enough. I'll clean as best I can using available products.
I sliced all the old urethane off the glass, and then scraped the original primer off the glass. Someone previously used silicone, so I need to make sure that's gone too.
I need to remove the urethane from the frame still. The frame is aluminum right? Sika recommends their products for touch-ups. They also stress that their urethane should never be applied to clear-coat (I suppose because it won't bond).
I'm going to mask off the glass, frame, car, and everywhere I don't want the sealant to be. Hopefully I can get a nice clean 'OE' look from the outside of the glass.
I plan to apply the Sika to the frame (on car) using the triangular tip, wait the 18 minute open time, and then place the glass with assistant.
I am equally concerned with the hatch sitting and sealing properly against the car body, so I won't be using any clamps on the frame. I want this thing to cure in it's resting state. I know this adhesive is stiff, but hopefully the weight of the hatch along with some even pressure applied will be enough to 'seat' it.
Maybe try putting some pillows in the trunk until the glass sits on the pillow, then keep adding until the pillows lift the glass off the hatch. Get it so that the pillows only allow the glass to just sit off the frame - this will be trial and error of course but then add the sealant to the frame and tap down as required. If the glass lifts up maybe add books (or similar) to weigh it back down? Just some thoughts, I have not done this yet, but I'm trying to think through how I will.
As for removing the urethane from the rail, do you intend to remove all of it or leave 1-2mm?
08-05-2016, 12:10 PM
