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Rear Hatch Reseal - Might have it down - DIY

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Old 02-21-2013, 03:31 PM
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StickShift
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Originally Posted by 86 951 Driver
Have you used the hatch struts? I was afraid to use them again in fear of ruining my rear hatch.
After the reseals, all three cars have had new struts installed. New struts do seem to accelerate the separation on unresealed hatches.
Old 03-11-2013, 05:32 PM
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I have to report that the 3M primer once again released from the glass. I have to give up on that product line. The glass fit nicely and was left for three weeks before installing on the car. Lasted for about a week or two.

StickShift - which Sika products did you have success with? Do you remember the part numbers?
Old 03-11-2013, 06:18 PM
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Originally Posted by nofalls
I have to report that the 3M primer once again released from the glass. I have to give up on that product line. The glass fit nicely and was left for three weeks before installing on the car. Lasted for about a week or two.

StickShift - which Sika products did you have success with? Do you remember the part numbers?
Did you ever try sealing this particular glass with as silicone sealant? If you did, nothing is going to stick to it.
Old 03-11-2013, 07:59 PM
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I used the Sika Aktivator PRO and the Sika® Primer-206 G+P. I don't recall the glue off the top of my head, but I got it from the same guys. I do not think you can buy it at a store, but I didn't look that hard, I just got it from a local mobile glass replacement business.
So far, still good. And we had the same separation issue with the 3m primer. They used to have a two stage primer that worked well, but changed it to the single stage that works as good as you have seen.
Old 03-11-2013, 09:31 PM
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Doc - I have never tired to use silicone so I do not believe the problem is silicone contamination.

StickShift - Yeah, the 3M primer is showing itself to be the weak link. Very disappointing. I'll check ebay and start pestering the glass install guys I see at work sometimes.
Old 03-12-2013, 03:48 PM
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Picked up a Sikatack ASAP super kit. This is the hot applied urethane and comes with Aktivator and primer. Write up to follow... if it works.
Old 03-12-2013, 08:53 PM
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Ask them for a long knife, or a pipe knife. Basically it is a really long utility knife. It made removing the hatch glass much easier. Took about a hour to get the glass out with it, and less stress than using a putty knife or a recipicating blade.
Old 03-12-2013, 10:28 PM
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with out reading it i've bookmarked this also. need to do this soon. i have a temp fix.. silicone
Old 03-12-2013, 10:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Paulyy
with out reading it i've bookmarked this also. need to do this soon. i have a temp fix.. silicone
Silicone contaminants the glass. It will make urethane not stick out seal.

You may have to get a new hatch to reseal.
Old 03-13-2013, 12:25 AM
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Originally Posted by 86 951 Driver
Silicone contaminants the glass. It will make urethane not stick out seal.

You may have to get a new hatch to reseal.
I jumped in here to ask a question about mine and you may have answered it.

My hatch has separated at some point in the past, the previous owner siliconed it around the top portions. So far nothing leaks other than a gap by the wing that allows fine snow to be blown in. I was wondering if it would be possible to clean up and do a reseal or if I should be looking for a new hatch.

It has terribly flaking purple tint on it too that needs removed. The only issue I have with finding a hatch is that I'm in the middle of Wyoming and pickings are quite slim.
Old 03-14-2013, 04:38 PM
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Tint comes off best in the summer. Spray the tint side of the window with ammonia, cover with black plastic bags. The bags will stick to the ammonia soaked window and tint pretty well. Do this in the sun. The plastic will get hot and help disolve the glue. Takes patience with the hatch because of the defrost wires and having to restrain yourself from scraping.

You may be able to use MEK or white gas and wet scrub the silicone off the window. Rinse and repeat until you feel lucky.
Old 03-14-2013, 04:50 PM
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Originally Posted by nofalls
Tint comes off best in the summer. Spray the tint side of the window with ammonia, cover with black plastic bags. The bags will stick to the ammonia soaked window and tint pretty well. Do this in the sun. The plastic will get hot and help disolve the glue. Takes patience with the hatch because of the defrost wires and having to restrain yourself from scraping.

You may be able to use MEK or white gas and wet scrub the silicone off the window. Rinse and repeat until you feel lucky.
I just recently had my car tinted. He used a steel wool pad to get it clean. It was very very fine steel wool. He did an excellent job and it looks awesome.
Old 03-20-2013, 08:15 PM
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Had my glass guy come in and do a hatch for me yesterday. Said he hadn't used 3m in years, though he said he never heard about any separation problems. Now uses Betaprime which he guarantees won't separate if used correctly. I know he used a 2 part primer, one of the bottles was a 5404a. Sealant was also betaprime, though it was in his gun, so I couldn't get a part number.
Old 03-20-2013, 08:23 PM
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Thanks to you guys I'm having good luck using a torch and the putty knife/dead blow hammer. Been working a little at a time but am confident I will get the glass separated from the frame.

Once I've done that, what are your suggestions for cleaning up the frame?
Old 03-21-2013, 01:44 PM
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Originally Posted by gregeast
Thanks to you guys I'm having good luck using a torch and the putty knife/dead blow hammer. Been working a little at a time but am confident I will get the glass separated from the frame.

Once I've done that, what are your suggestions for cleaning up the frame?
If you have an air compressor a rolac pad or sanding disc on a die grider.


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