odonnell

I'm replacing my ball joints for the first time on my NA and the joint shaft isn't wanting to pop into the spindle. I'm still on the first side. The old one came out easily enough with a mallet. I've put a jack under the joint and pressed it up, no dice. Even with a support between the spindle and the frame (to keep the coilover spring from simply compressing when I jack up) the entire car just lifts off the jack stand. It doesn't want to push into the spindle.

I've used a pry bar to 'open up' the spindle, but I can never get it more than 1/8" in or so. What gives? Clark's garage and other writeups make it seem like it slips in without a second thought.

V2Rocket

Do the threads on the ball joint stick through the spindle hole?
If so, just fit the nut and start cranking it down...

The pin is a TIGHT fit (nearly interference fit with the tapered hole/pin).

odonnell

There are no threads, it's just a pin with a groove cut all the way around. Once the groove is aligned in the spindle, you insert a M10 bolt (perpendicular to the ball joint shaft) and secure with a lock nut. Sort of like the coupler on the transaxle to torque tube shaft - has that recess and the bolts keep it in place. So it's purely an interference fit, until that bolt is inserted, and I'm hard pressed (pun intended) to get it seated all the way in.

944 Lachlan

Did you replace the brass bearing that goes on top of the ball joint?

odonnell

What brass bushing?

FYI, this is an early steel arm car. Ball joints, control arms, bushings, and all hardware are 100% brand new.



Parts 17/18 are the bolt/nut that lock the joint shaft into the spindle. It's a direct connection between the ball joint shaft and the spindle.

944 Lachlan

Disregard; I was thinking you were doing late control arms. They have a brass bushing that has to be seated well first.

V2Rocket

Oh jeez...I was thinking of tie rod ends.

AZ520

Wedge open the split in the knuckle with a punch or large flat tip screw driver? I don't recall these going in with too much drama, jack up and tap the knuckle should drop right in.

divil

Are you sure it's not just binding due to being at a slight angle? When I rebuilt my ball joints they were very stiff so I can see how that would happen easily....kind of like getting the u-joint on the steering shaft.

tempest411

If the bore of the spindle is free of rusty crud, I'd stop before forcing it any further and try a different brand of ball joint.

neunfünfeins

These are identical to some VW ball joints which I've done lots of.
Assuming you have the correct part and not one with a larger diameter spindle or something...

You didn't put the clamp bolt in first by chance did you?

Then as others have said:

1. make sure knuckle is clear - scrape/pick out any stubborn crud, run a piece of emery cloth or scuff pad through it
2. spread the knuckle - cold chisel or pry bar works pretty well here
3. spindle should be lined up with knuckle - gotta get the right 'angle of the dangle'

Should push right up. If not, look for some unrelated reason.

Tiger03447

When I got my new control arms, I put the ball joint into them..It seemed a bit strange that the bolts were a kinda weird size for Porsche. 7mm or so if I remember right. I think I had to dremel some of the A arm to get them to go in correctly. I haven't tried them into the spindle itself. Reading all this with great interest, Michael..

Techno Duck

Get a small chisel and tap it in between the pinch on the spindle to spread it open slightly. The ball joint will slide right in.

odonnell

Thanks guys, got the job done! My problem was the angle, like several posted. It wasnt much, but apparently enough to cause this problem. I dropped the arms off the chassis to gain more degrees of freedom, and they slid in with minimal persuasion like intended.

FWIW, these are Delphi ball joints purchased on Paragon parts. Quality seems to up to snuff.

neunfünfeins