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Thinking of a Quickjack - enough lift to drop motor?
I haven't had a sports car for 20+ years (300ZX Turbo back in the day) and I've become a lazy SOB now that I am solidly in middle age. I'm thinking of buying a Quickjack - probably 5K model - to assist with work on the 996 and our Subaru Legacy.
If I am going to drop the $$$ on one, I want to make sure it's high enough for any work I might potentially do on the Porsche, including pulling the motor/trans.
It shows a max lifting height of 18" with the smallest rubber block - I don't think you could put a thicker one under it due to the ground clearance of the Porsche.. but maybe I am wrong.
Anyone have one? Is there enough height to drop the motor?
If you go to Garage Journal, you will find lots of info on this subject .Slakker is correct, the MaxJax or similar are the best compromise. But if you have the space a 2 post asymetric or in-floor type are the ultimate tool. Lots of controversy about cheap chinese vs.USA made lifts. Bendpak & Greg Smith equipment have useful sites on which to daydream http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=334095
Porsche 996 on Maxjax:
I would love a maxjax but my 2 car garage isn't really wide enough to use one plus I am not keen on drilling the anchors into the slab. They are much bigger for storage when not in use too . I am not keen on the scissor due to the lack of portability especially compared to the quick jack. I like the quickjack design better than the scissor. I have read some reviews and most of the later ones seem really positive especially compared to the older ones which had some real quality issues.
I guess question remains though, does a quickjack go high enough to drop the motor?
If quickjack doesn't raise the car high enough for engine/tranny drop, can you raise the car in
two steps.
1) raise the car with quickjack, then put jack stands under to support the car.
2) collapse the quickjack, and set it on a stack of well secured 2x12 or whatever size needed
to support the quickjack, and repeat.
The potential problem is quickjack moves the car forward/backwards when raising and lowering,
so it may be tricky to lower the car onto jackstands because of the movement.
My garage floor is made of small slabs of concrete so I cannot use a maxjack, so I got a 4-post
jack instead, but that is not convenient for working on wheels/brakes, and the opening between
the rails is now wide enough to drop the engine. I haven't figured out a solution yet, so I'm not
dropping my engine.
And yes you can do brakes/suspension on a 4 post LIFT - you just need the bridge jack attachment - see Bendpak or Greg Smith as I suggested previously http://www.bendpak.com/car-lifts/4-post-bridge-jacks/
You can easily improvise your own alternatives to the bridge jacks
I'm going to give the liftbars a shot. I've got a set on order along with a set of 4 - 6 ton Summit jackstands that go up to 24". I'm hoping I like the setup. If not, I'll probably go MaxJax.
Is that 2x10 in front of the scissor so you can drive up it or did is serve some other purpose? Is the 911 too low to keep a scissor lift on the floor of the garage and just park on it all the time without one?
Is that 2x10 in front of the scissor so you can drive up it or did is serve some other purpose? Is the 911 too low to keep a scissor lift on the floor of the garage and just park on it all the time without one?
I'm going to countersink the lift into the floor this month.
My car sits at the lowest GT2 spec ride height and needs these 2"x10"s in order for me to be able to put the lift spacers in the jack points under the car.