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Old 05-10-2016, 02:22 PM
  #106  
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I officially declare this thread Martin'd.
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Old 05-10-2016, 02:25 PM
  #107  
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Originally Posted by alpine003
It sure be nice if we can get info on these various engine packages without having to attend a webinar. But of course you'll say something about "the enemy" yada yada yada...
It would be nice. I agree.

A 1:1 phone chat with me is part of every engine purchase, thats the other way to acquire all the details. People love this, and its what I have always done, and will continue to do. Most of these chats last an hour, some 3 hours.

A website with everything we do will not happen. Basic info is all we can provide, for the very reasons that Martin has already outlined with his off- base summaries.
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Old 05-10-2016, 02:36 PM
  #108  
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Originally Posted by alpine003
Well not to fuel the fire but my wife has an Acura MDX and there's been quite a few owners of excessive oil consumption on the newer J series motors by Acura owners. These have aluminum block utilizing Alusil lining. I found it interesting that Acura had a formal TSB to replace the short block for excessive oil consumption for '10-'13 models. I found it even more interesting that Acura switched back to steel liners in their '14+ models. After researching it a bit, there's been quite a few manufacturers that flip flopped on these types of liners including Jaguar. I understand that Nikasil is different but the basics of having a coating on aluminum is still similiar.

Martin, are there any noticeable heat differences and/or HP and torque differences throughout the rev band utilizing the steel liners?
There is minimal hp loss but it's a small %. Answer yourself, would you rather have a reliable worry free engine or small % of hp more which you will never feel?
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Old 05-10-2016, 02:50 PM
  #109  
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Quote: "HA HA!! You have GOT to be kidding me!! Those are the TEAR DOWN photos of Andrew's engine! Note that there's few photos in that album compared to the others? Well thats because we had an SD card full of pics fail and we lost them.

For all you guys to se, this is the photo album that Martin is referencing. https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?...4914693&type=3

See, you truly do not know, what you do not know. "

You seriously have all people for idiots, how is it possible that it's disassembly when there is no oil or usual heavy dirt on all parts? Most importantly, 3 connection rods are already attached to the crank shaft and next step is installing pistons as it is in the next photo in your album. You cannot remove pistons when they are connected to rods! Cut the crap and don't bury yourself anymore. I've caught you lying and you know it! I'm done here, no point in going back and forth.
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Old 05-10-2016, 02:58 PM
  #110  
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I thought that you said the engine was dirty? Now you say that its too clean. Please make up your mind.

Ok.. It looks like you don't have all the tools I do, or processes. It also looks like maybe you assemble engines in a different order than we do, thats to be expected; you haven't attended my classes.

Glad to see that you are really ready to give it up.

Till next time, which I am sure won't be too long.
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Old 05-10-2016, 03:30 PM
  #111  
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Originally Posted by Flat6 Innovations
It would be nice. I agree.

A 1:1 phone chat with me is part of every engine purchase, thats the other way to acquire all the details. People love this, and its what I have always done, and will continue to do. Most of these chats last an hour, some 3 hours.

A website with everything we do will not happen. Basic info is all we can provide, for the very reasons that Martin has already outlined with his off- base summaries.
Jake, I think all people want to know like me are just the basics of what makes each of your package engines different. We're not asking for any specifics where your competition can really benefit from.

For example for your street performer, some may want to know that it's been stroked to 3.8L and power increases can be expected of 40hp over factory for example. I don't think the avg person cares to know what exact components are replaced to achieve this.

It's hard to plan/save/wish for a particular engine package that no one knows anything about. Of course unless you are Tesla, but even they provided some pics and a few running models of the Model3 before they asked potential owners to plunk down their down payment.

From a consumer perspective, I don't think it's very realistic for most to have to sit in on a long conversation or webinar just to get some basic info.
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Old 05-10-2016, 03:42 PM
  #112  
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From a consumer perspective, I don't think it's very realistic for most to have to sit in on a long conversation or webinar just to get some basic info.
Its a large investment, and most of my purchasers DO want this. Last week I sold an engine to a rennlister and we had a chat that lasted over an hour, after we had emails go back and forth 5 times. A couple of those were over 1,000 words. No website, or other means of conveying info other than direct interchange can give people this amount of info that they will be able to understand. Most of my purchasers are very technical, even though they don't build things. They come to us last after they have gone to everyone else- I like that.

To attain a 3.8 from a 3.4 I can do this with all bore, with an increase to 101.6mm. From a 3.6 I can also attain 3.8 with all bore (96 to 99mm), utilizing the 78mm crank for both these. With the same 3.6 I can also achieve my 4.0, coupling the 101.6mm bore to the 82.8mm crank.

Then comes my billet cranks, where any stroke is possible, creating a number of combinations from 3.5L, to 4.4L.

My newest engines are smaller, yet make more up top power than others, with some losses of bottom end torque. A big bore, coupled to a de- stroker with a non- stock rod length makes for a beast that very radical. Couple that to my R51 CNC heads, and you have a true beast. Strokes cut down into the 65mm range change everything with a monster bore size. These are not conventional, simple, easy to build combinations.

Now that we have perfected the 102.7mm bore (in development since 2011) things change again. I have been too busy to even release any of that.
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Old 05-10-2016, 04:53 PM
  #113  
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Originally Posted by alpine003
Well not to fuel the fire but my wife has an Acura MDX and there's been quite a few owners of excessive oil consumption on the newer J series motors by Acura owners. These have aluminum block utilizing Alusil lining. I found it interesting that Acura had a formal TSB to replace the short block for excessive oil consumption for '10-'13 models. I found it even more interesting that Acura switched back to steel liners in their '14+ models. After researching it a bit, there's been quite a few manufacturers that flip flopped on these types of liners including Jaguar. I understand that Nikasil is different but the basics of having a coating on aluminum is still similiar.

Martin, are there any noticeable heat differences and/or HP and torque differences throughout the rev band utilizing the steel liners?
Lake Speed Jr. from Driven Oils and I were having a discussion about oil consumption. This is a very complicated topic.

With all the changes to thinner oils - they are coming out with 0w-10 and 0w15 oils. On a V8 going from a 5w30 to 5w20 is worth about 2 mpg. Going thinner can gain additional savings in fuel economy. CAFE standards are pushing this.

Couple with low tension rings and you end up with high oil consumption.

Another issue is over-filling. Lake said he was doing a test and if you ran the oil 1 qt high the oil temperatures were through the roof. Put it back to normal level and oil temperature settles down. High oil temperatures thins out the oil, again, leading to increased oil consumption when paired with thin oils, not to mention all the extra windage and blowby.

Then throw in direct injection, no more secondary air injection (they just add extra fuel at warm up to fuel the cats) and fuel dilution from high pressure fuel getting past the low tension rings. Bingo, oil gets thinned out and bores washed down.

Lastly, surface finish on alusil, lokasil, and nikasil is completely different than on cast iron/ductile/steel. I just went to an AERA conference where Sunnen was lecturing on honing. Aluminum bores take a 10-15 degree cross-hatch with an Ra some times as low as 2-4. Oiling properties of aluminum bores are completely different. Done right, you get more horsepower from less friction, lower oil temperatures, and more horsepower (about 2 hp per cylinder)

Just do some light reading in the SAE about engine development and you can find example after example of modern engines going aluminum for better cooling and efficiency:

https://www.google.com/webhp?sourcei...ock%20benefits

Just one example of many. That's why we chose to aluminum Nikasil sleeves for our blocks.

With iron or other ferrous counterparts, cross-hatch can be done from 45-60 degrees and Ra isn't as important. They can control oil consumption by adjusting the peaks and valleys, using plateau hone, etc.
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Old 05-10-2016, 05:36 PM
  #114  
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Originally Posted by Charles Navarro
Lake Speed Jr. from Driven Oils and I were having a discussion about oil consumption. This is a very complicated topic.

With all the changes to thinner oils - they are coming out with 0w-10 and 0w15 oils. On a V8 going from a 5w30 to 5w20 is worth about 2 mpg. Going thinner can gain additional savings in fuel economy. CAFE standards are pushing this.

Couple with low tension rings and you end up with high oil consumption.

Another issue is over-filling. Lake said he was doing a test and if you ran the oil 1 qt high the oil temperatures were through the roof. Put it back to normal level and oil temperature settles down. High oil temperatures thins out the oil, again, leading to increased oil consumption when paired with thin oils, not to mention all the extra windage and blowby.

Then throw in direct injection, no more secondary air injection (they just add extra fuel at warm up to fuel the cats) and fuel dilution from high pressure fuel getting past the low tension rings. Bingo, oil gets thinned out and bores washed down.

Lastly, surface finish on alusil, lokasil, and nikasil is completely different than on cast iron/ductile/steel. I just went to an AERA conference where Sunnen was lecturing on honing. Aluminum bores take a 10-15 degree cross-hatch with an Ra some times as low as 2-4. Oiling properties of aluminum bores are completely different. Done right, you get more horsepower from less friction, lower oil temperatures, and more horsepower (about 2 hp per cylinder)

Just do some light reading in the SAE about engine development and you can find example after example of modern engines going aluminum for better cooling and efficiency:

https://www.google.com/webhp?sourcei...ock%20benefits

Just one example of many. That's why we chose to aluminum Nikasil sleeves for our blocks.

With iron or other ferrous counterparts, cross-hatch can be done from 45-60 degrees and Ra isn't as important. They can control oil consumption by adjusting the peaks and valleys, using plateau hone, etc.
Thanks for your explanation. In the specific case of Acura, these were non direct injection, not high compression ratio, 5w20 oil spec'd. However I suspect the switch back to steel liners was also due to the fact that they introduced direct injection on the newer models, coupled to the issues they've had in the past with Alusil engines(somewhat smearing their bullet proof reputation).

"Done right, you get more horsepower from less friction, lower oil temperatures, and more horsepower (about 2 hp per cylinder)"
I do agree with this but keyword here is "done right" but also I'd like to add maintained right too. We all know the casual consumer has a hard time doing this sometimes. I see way too many people using 87oct on their turbo BMW's these days to save that $.60 or so per gallon. Then they cry wolf when something bad happens.

On a V8 going from a 5w30 to 5w20 is worth about 2 mpg. Going thinner can gain additional savings in fuel economy. CAFE standards are pushing this.
I agree with this and a way for manufacturers to get additional mileage and thus possibly more sales. Unfortunately it's not the best for other areas and the consumers could risk facing some issues long term.
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Old 05-10-2016, 05:59 PM
  #115  
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In today's world we have determined that the accounting team is in charge. Anytime we wonder why something is done, with any vehicle, it comes down to dollars.

Because of that, to solve problems we don't follow suite with what the factory does. In fact we don't care at all. It only makes sense to the accountant.
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Old 05-10-2016, 06:50 PM
  #116  
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Originally Posted by Flat6 Innovations

Then comes my billet cranks, where any stroke is possible, creating a number of combinations from 3.5L, to 4.4L.
What's the country of origin of the cranks?

(unless that's a state secret - j/k)
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Old 05-10-2016, 07:30 PM
  #117  
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Originally Posted by docmirror
What's the country of origin of the cranks?

(unless that's a state secret - j/k)
Well, they don't come from Poland, or even Europe... 100% USA made.

Here's the process of Ltusler's finished billet crankshaft being made for his FSI 4.0 in his 1999, 996 that made 366 RWHP with R51 CNC heads in 2014. This combo today is now pushing 400RWHP and should break the barrier by October, with 350 lb/ ft of torque. All power is made below the stock rev limit.





Roughed and sobbed




Journals and throws rough milled




Ready to move to the CNC crank grinder




Finished product after Ion Nitriding, cryogenic enhancement, and micro- polishing
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Old 05-10-2016, 07:34 PM
  #118  
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K, thanks.
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Old 05-10-2016, 11:40 PM
  #119  
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Wow.... just WOW! What a thread.
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Old 05-11-2016, 03:54 AM
  #120  
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Originally Posted by alpine003
I'm just waiting for the $800 painted key fob option now that VW is hurting and will have to make up for their losses in creative ways.

Waiting for that made in Mexico sub assembly to be in future Porsches with VW window switches or climate control *****.
The Porsche seats have been made in Mexico since the 997.
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