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So after fitting my new hood on, it looks the slightest bit bucktoothed. I couldn't figure it out without messing up the panel gaps, so I decided to check that the dimensions of my two hoods are identical.
Front lip to back end on my original hood is 47.25". Same spot measurement on my new (also OEM) hold is 47.5". Seems awfully strange given that it's a stamped peice that it would be off by so much...
Is this the downside to owning the "last hand built Porsche"?!
Net effect is pretty minimal, but having spent hours trying to perfect it, I realized it's the car, not me.
new question folks - glad to see the thread in use
So is there a trick to loosening the fuel filter nut at the back of the filter (ie toward the front of the car)? I removed PS pump (perm) and air filter and half AF housing.
The front (of engine bay) one cracked easily with the 17/19 spanners crimped towards each other with one hand technique, but the one toward the back of the filter is not budging ... heat gun makes me a bit wary .... have sprayed it with loosener but I fear its a steel nut to ali thread issue. Will try again in the am .. but happy to hear some advice.
I imagine it's a 'clockwise' to loosen on the fuel pipe side nut if facing into the engine bay, right?
Here's a silly one: I went the fill up the car yesterday and noticed that the nozzle doesn't quite insert into the opening completely. The nozzle went past the circular flapper maybe 2". I was worried fuel may splash out but didn't. Is this right? Thanks
If you want to fill faster, twist the nozzle 180 degrees... But you will need to hold it.
Fuel doesn't splash out, but full throttle filling shuts off the pump (as it thinks the tank is full).
Here the fuel pumps still have service and they put it on slow filling mode and leave it unattended... The fuel really crawls put of the pump that way 😆
new question folks - glad to see the thread in use
So is there a trick to loosening the fuel filter nut at the back of the filter (ie toward the front of the car)? I removed PS pump (perm) and air filter and half AF housing.
Thanks for the thread!!!!!! great idea
You could remove the filter with the line attached, if it is the same as mine (ROW) then there is a line that runs across the bay and joins to the main front to rear pipe.
This way you could work on it on the bench, heat, saw the filter in half, etc?
btw I thought the new porsche filters come with a new fitting included so you could trash the old one?
thanks for the idea Quat ... got it done and after a vey cautious drive all still dry
... but the bloody fuel line into the filter (from the tank ie back of engine bay) was completely mulleted ... had to remove the 19 nut from the filter itself (up against the flange of the filter) leaving the 19 on the fuel line. I then removed the same from the new filter, checked the copper/rubber washer was ok and re-attached that way. Not ideal but getting the whole line loose behind the intake was not much easier as there's very little room to work. Will replace the line next Eng drop.
Interesting the old filter (OEM, made in Israel) feels/look much better made than the new OEM Mahle one (made in Germany). The fuel was clean coming out and no bits etc.. but will cut open tomorrow once its a bit drier.
front of filter connection took 2 min
back of filter ... 2 hours!
new filter has a copper washer glued to the nut (rhs) ... not likely one supposed to even losen that side but I had not choice (see pic 2)
new pelican OEM Mahle (Germ)
Old (orig?) filter (Israel)
old copper washer between filter and 19 nut has a rubber trim to washer, new one doesn't
... just re the stripped fuel pipe nut above in pic 2 - despite a variety of non-slip tools the nut was too messed up and I could not get it to turn; I think that's why I didn't replace the FF when I did the engine drop a couple years back .... seemed like the threads themselves were twisted, thus the decision to remove the other threaded nut and leave fuel pipe thread alone.
You're fuel filter looks gnarly. This was one of the first projects I did on my car; luckily nothing was stripped on mine and it was relatively straightforward removing and replacing.
Pretty gross, but since new fuel filter is in, not had any troubles!
Originally Posted by HiWind
... just re the stripped fuel pipe nut above in pic 2 - despite a variety of non-slip tools the nut was too messed up and I could not get it to turn; I think that's why I didn't replace the FF when I did the engine drop a couple years back .... seemed like the threads themselves were twisted, thus the decision to remove the other threaded nut and leave fuel pipe thread alone.
The outside plastic of the filter was scuffed but on opening and draining it, there was nothing bad inside (it's a roll of cardboard paper essentially, some darker spots on it) and the fuel inside was perfect.
^^ That's great. I just wanted to FYI as I freaked out when I saw what came out (the back end) of mine.
Since I have an extra hood, I was thinking of stripping the current terrible paint on it. Anyone have a good way of doing that? Is there a chemical process or is it best to sand it away? Something that can be done at home or leave to a shop? Google led me to a guy with a wire brush, but that seems like it might ruin the underlying metal...
In terms of the fuel filter it depends which way you tilt it. If you tilt it the way it usually flows it comes out clear, and the other way it will be dirty if its not filtered yet. Atleast thats the way it happened with me, and it was a ten year old filter.
I have 8 way power driver seat. All electrical functions work except the bottom rear. The front portion goes up and down fine. I believe it's not the switch because there is a tiny movement upon activation. Seems like it's jammed in the lowest position. Is this a common thing? Seat removal to diagnose? Thanks
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