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Brake rotor resurfacing

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Old 05-17-2014, 11:46 PM
  #31  
Adamant1971
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Originally Posted by gtihop
How can you tell if they are too far gone before machining? You measure it first, then machine it until it is straight and has a good finish, then measure it again after. If it is above the min machine limit, then it is ok. How can a good tech visually "see that" before machining? Can we all see .010 " by eye?
I dont even bother machining them anymore for customers. Replace them while repairing the brakes or take the car elsewhere. It's not worth the hassle to try save a few dollars. The car will always come back with a pulsation.

In our CT shop, we charge .3 hour to machine a rotor ($24.00 each)
They would have noticed after the first one and should have called rather than carry on. That's my point. I'm not a dick and just expected them to actually watch what they were doing. I guess I expect too much.
Old 05-18-2014, 06:40 AM
  #32  
69gaugeman
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Originally Posted by Adamant1971
No they had a slight warp, but apparently it was worse than I thought. My issue is that they obviously noticed but kept on doing them regardless. They should have stopped and notified me that they were badly warped. Instead they did all 4 and told me they were badly warped after the fact, when I picked them up that's what the tech said. I then asked are they straight now and he said yes. As soon as I mounted them I could see the warp with my eye. Who knows what happened, they may have made them worse, they may have been too bad to machine. Bottom line they are just a bunch of monkeys.

I have ordered new rotors. And will get my money back.
How can you tell they had a slight warp? The pedal pulsates when the thickness variation is beyond 12 microns (half a thousands of an inch) rotor run out starts at 100 microns (about .005"). No way you can see that and if you can see it, your car was undrivable.

Originally Posted by gtihop
How can you tell if they are too far gone before machining? You measure it first, then machine it until it is straight and has a good finish, then measure it again after. If it is above the min machine limit, then it is ok. How can a good tech visually "see that" before machining? Can we all see .010 " by eye?
I dont even bother machining them anymore for customers. Replace them while repairing the brakes or take the car elsewhere. It's not worth the hassle to try save a few dollars. The car will always come back with a pulsation.

In our CT shop, we charge .3 hour to machine a rotor ($24.00 each)
Your people are not well trained in machining rotors then. I agree that you would never machine a toyota camry rotor, but the 928 rotor is some 200$ each. Big difference. If you throw the new guy on the machine with no training the op saga is what you get.

Originally Posted by Adamant1971
They would have noticed after the first one and should have called rather than carry on. That's my point. I'm not a dick and just expected them to actually watch what they were doing. I guess I expect too much.
They can't notice what they don't know....
Old 05-20-2014, 01:10 PM
  #33  
Adamant1971
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Well I have sent this video to the customer service team with a detailed note.

Perhaps I should have looked at them closer before I took them in. But what burns me is that they swear up and down they were machined to be straight. This is just $$$ over customer service. Any tech with half a brain would have stopped after one or two. Plus I have had 2 e-tests, a safety and had 4 tires installed at that same location this year. This is how they treat repeat customers.

And at a minimum they should have told me they were bad and I would not have spent the time putting them on the car.

Obviously they just machined them down to min spec and handed them back with no regard to them being warped. Or they really ****ed up or were out back smoking weed, or a combination. Ha Ha

Old 05-20-2014, 01:46 PM
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Imo000
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They charged how much???
Old 05-20-2014, 02:18 PM
  #35  
Torontoworker
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Your rotors were not done correctly. I'm betting they were done off the car and why they are now scrap.

Old 05-20-2014, 02:29 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by paul29
If they did not clean the mounting surface on the rotors where the lathe holding points contact, then the rotors can be turned but the hub centerline may not be true to the centerline of the disc pad face and will pulse the pads . I use an angle grinder with a wire cup brush to clean rust or dirt buildup on the hub part of the rotor both sides that attach to the lathe so it then has the original clean surfaces for mounting. Any build up at all on the lathe mounting points will turn the rotor's brake face off center. I am referring to the typical brake lathes used at most shops.
im thinking its more along these lines .. i bet they didnt have the adapters and tried to make do and didnt get the rotor complely square ..

I am sure they are machined completely straight ... just not parallel with the hub mounting surface..

once you then mount against a hub the rotor is now " warped" I am sure a route cause investigation will reveal improper mounting of the rotor .
Old 05-20-2014, 05:15 PM
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And a quote from the service mangers response.

"The rotors machined with a true face, giving neither of the technicians any reason to condemn the rotors as not machine able. "

Absolute BS, as usual from CT service staff.

And they have not even asked to see the rotors or check them. They obviously trust the word of tech over a loyal (or past loyal) customer.

Last edited by Adamant1971; 05-20-2014 at 09:34 PM.
Old 05-20-2014, 06:07 PM
  #38  
Imo000
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What about highschool drop out customer? The level of education isn't the issu here. How did they explqin that the rotors have a runout? If they made a full cut and the rotor was mounted properly then, ow do they explain the runout?
Old 05-20-2014, 06:12 PM
  #39  
Adamant1971
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Originally Posted by Imo000
What about highschool drop out customer? The level of education isn't the issu here. How did they explqin that the rotors have a runout? If they made a full cut and the rotor was mounted properly then, ow do they explain the runout?
They are now claiming I didn't tell them there was a pulsation before and that they did nothing wrong. But they have yet to even ask to see them.

I'm still waiting for corporate to respond.
Old 05-20-2014, 07:15 PM
  #40  
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Adamant1971: To prove your point first clean the hub face on your car then clean both rotor hub faces of rust, paint and/or dirt inside and out on the rotor you have in the video, now reattach the rotor to your car with lug nuts and washers if necessary for spacers and tighten the rotor to the hub and check again. I'm sure you will see the same result ie the axel hub face and the rotor hub face are now turning in one plane and the rotor brake pad faces are in another. This will verify the rotor was not on the brake lathe properly. Now you can take this cleaned rotor to CTC and have them mount it on their lathe ( which has now has the mounting points cleaned, right?). The rotor should turn on the lathe the same as in your video. It's obvious this rotor is toast, you should check the other three. Compensation >you should at least get your money back and possibly half the new cost on this one and any others that were ruined.
Old 05-20-2014, 08:23 PM
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gtihop
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Looks like the wrong adapters were used on the lathe.
Corp usually leaves it to the store to sort out problems.
As far as your high school drop out tech remark, I am a red seal technician and you might want to look into what is needed these days for training to be a technician and work on all types of cars!
Old 05-20-2014, 08:32 PM
  #42  
Adamant1971
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Originally Posted by gtihop
Looks like the wrong adapters were used on the lathe.
Corp usually leaves it to the store to sort out problems.
As far as your high school drop out tech remark, I am a red seal technician and we do not appreciate the remarks. The general public has no idea how much training and education is needed to be a auto tech these days, not just a hobby mechanic that does it in his garage on the weekends!
Sorry if my comment offended you, it came from my anger and nothing else.
Real men own up to mistakes not dodge around them like they have been doing. It's just gets my blood boiling when people lie to your face or don't even pretend to listen.
Old 05-21-2014, 11:07 AM
  #43  
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I tried for the first time Luk Schaffer brake rotors, and I must say they are amazing, especially for the price. I put them on my C4S 06, got Black XD Brake kit with premium carbon semi metallic pads. Braking is solid and crisp...will reo-order again
Old 05-21-2014, 01:48 PM
  #44  
Jonathon Rolstin
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Does the hub face run out? Hard to tell in the video but it seems to be fine. If the hub face has no runout then CT mounted the rotors incorrectly. They should buy you new rotors...

This is a pretty cut and dry situation... you either machine them properly or you don't... Whether or not they had uneven transfer of friction material before has no impact on the way they are now.

For the record, rotors or brake discs don't warp... Pulsation mostly comes from thickness variation which is due to uneven transfer of friction material from the pads to the disc. This happens because of localized hotspotting...

If the tech is telling you they are warped, they don't know what they are talking about....!
Old 05-21-2014, 04:07 PM
  #45  
69gaugeman
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Without a doubt CT FVCKED up!. No if and or but. How far you want to take it is up to you. As to the red seal mechanic, I have seen so much ****ty work out there as to be incredible. Changing brakes out ,with new parts is easy. Just changing what needs to be changed NEVER happens at CT. I had a safety done once and they said I need new rotors, pads, calipers, all the way around at a cost of 2500.00. I asked how thin the rotors were. He said he didn't measure them. HE DIDN'T MEASURE IT! When I called your "red seal society" They said that maybe it was a issue for consumer and corporate affairs. I have little to no faith in that system.


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