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Old 05-15-2014, 07:58 PM
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Ernie J
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Mantis can do them, have all the adaptors. 905-844-6219 David
Old 05-15-2014, 11:01 PM
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Adamant1971
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Originally Posted by Ernie J
Mantis can do them, have all the adaptors. 905-844-6219 David
Good to know David.
Old 05-16-2014, 12:27 PM
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911 Rod
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Originally Posted by Ernie J
Mantis can do them, have all the adaptors. 905-844-6219 David
Ernie / David. Do you think they would still pass UCR tech inspection? (996TT)
Old 05-16-2014, 02:01 PM
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Imo000
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If the UCR has the same limits as the HTA then yes.
Old 05-16-2014, 02:03 PM
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Imo000
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Nowdays most rotors are not thick enough to be machined and be above the minimum therefore they can't be legally machined but the 928 has very think rotors that can easily be machined at keast once maybe even twice.
Old 05-16-2014, 02:43 PM
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Adamant1971
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Mine ended up 32mm front and 21mm rear. That's right at the minimum spec.

Unfortunately my efforts to save a buck backfired, the rotors are producing a vibration. So it looks I'm buying new rotors any way.

That's also what I get for having CT do them, they should have come back and told me they were to far gone. Any good tech should have seen that before turning them.

Anyways know one to blame but myself. In the grand scheme of things its just a blip.

Now for some rotor shopping.
Old 05-16-2014, 05:06 PM
  #22  
Imo000
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Go back and ask for a refund.
Old 05-16-2014, 05:48 PM
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69gaugeman
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Originally Posted by 911 Rod
You guys are re-surfacing your rotors?
Yes. Why wouldn't you? They were surfaced when they were manufactured.

Originally Posted by Adamant1971
I would normally not, but when you have spent your budget for the year and the alternative is new rotors at almost $800 for the set you do what you have to do.

Also the rotors are in good shape, I'm just putting new pads on since the car had only been driven 2k in the last 10 years.

The Canadian tire on Dundas near the 403 is re-surfacing them this afternoon. $180 clams.
If you had no vibration, I would not bother surfacing the rotors. The pads will seat into the grooves. It will just take a little while. The only reason to surface is if you have a brake pedal vibration.

Originally Posted by Imo000
Resurfacing is good for the environment too.
Not that we care about that too much...lol

Originally Posted by Adamant1971
Mine ended up 32mm front and 21mm rear. That's right at the minimum spec.

Unfortunately my efforts to save a buck backfired, the rotors are producing a vibration. So it looks I'm buying new rotors any way.

That's also what I get for having CT do them, they should have come back and told me they were to far gone. Any good tech should have seen that before turning them.

Anyways know one to blame but myself. In the grand scheme of things its just a blip.

Now for some rotor shopping.
Make them pay for new rotors. Sue if you have too. That's BS there is a lot of material on those rotors. Too bad I was in the hospital and didn't see this until today. Could have saved you a lot of money.
Old 05-16-2014, 06:03 PM
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Adamant1971
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I complained and they just kept saying they did what the asked. I said fine, but after the first one you should have notified me they were bad and not done all 4. Sadly I don't seem to learn the lesson of never using CT.

I was nice and they we're complete dicks. I'm escalating to corporate.

I don't expect a complete refund I will pay for 1 but not all 4.

New rotors already ordered from the states. I will go back again bad rotors in hand.
Old 05-17-2014, 09:20 AM
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69gaugeman
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Originally Posted by Adamant1971
I complained and they just kept saying they did what the asked. I said fine, but after the first one you should have notified me they were bad and not done all 4. Sadly I don't seem to learn the lesson of never using CT.

I was nice and they we're complete dicks. I'm escalating to corporate.

I don't expect a complete refund I will pay for 1 but not all 4.

New rotors already ordered from the states. I will go back again bad rotors in hand.
You asked for pedal vibration? I don't think so. I am an expert in this field. If you need some help, let me know.

I will help you with a small claims action.
Old 05-17-2014, 12:04 PM
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Imo000
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They ruined all 4? Wow! I agree with Rod, if only surface rust or some uneveness, leave them as is, they will polish up in a day or two. My 928 sits a lot and the rotors polish up perfectly after a day of driving.
Old 05-17-2014, 12:09 PM
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Adamant1971
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Originally Posted by Imo000
They ruined all 4? Wow! I agree with Rod, if only surface rust or some uneveness, leave them as is, they will polish up in a day or two. My 928 sits a lot and the rotors polish up perfectly after a day of driving.
No they had a slight warp, but apparently it was worse than I thought. My issue is that they obviously noticed but kept on doing them regardless. They should have stopped and notified me that they were badly warped. Instead they did all 4 and told me they were badly warped after the fact, when I picked them up that's what the tech said. I then asked are they straight now and he said yes. As soon as I mounted them I could see the warp with my eye. Who knows what happened, they may have made them worse, they may have been too bad to machine. Bottom line they are just a bunch of monkeys.

I have ordered new rotors. And will get my money back.
Old 05-17-2014, 01:06 PM
  #28  
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If they did not clean the mounting surface on the rotors where the lathe holding points contact, then the rotors can be turned but the hub centerline may not be true to the centerline of the disc pad face and will pulse the pads . I use an angle grinder with a wire cup brush to clean rust or dirt buildup on the hub part of the rotor both sides that attach to the lathe so it then has the original clean surfaces for mounting. Any build up at all on the lathe mounting points will turn the rotor's brake face off center. I am referring to the typical brake lathes used at most shops.
Old 05-17-2014, 10:42 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Adamant1971
Mine ended up 32mm front and 21mm rear. That's right at the minimum spec.

Unfortunately my efforts to save a buck backfired, the rotors are producing a vibration. So it looks I'm buying new rotors any way.

That's also what I get for having CT do them, they should have come back and told me they were to far gone. Any good tech should have seen that before turning them.

Anyways know one to blame but myself. In the grand scheme of things its just a blip.

Now for some rotor shopping.
How can you tell if they are too far gone before machining? You measure it first, then machine it until it is straight and has a good finish, then measure it again after. If it is above the min machine limit, then it is ok. How can a good tech visually "see that" before machining? Can we all see .010 " by eye?
I dont even bother machining them anymore for customers. Replace them while repairing the brakes or take the car elsewhere. It's not worth the hassle to try save a few dollars. The car will always come back with a pulsation.

In our CT shop, we charge .3 hour to machine a rotor ($24.00 each)

Last edited by gtihop; 05-17-2014 at 10:44 PM. Reason: add
Old 05-17-2014, 10:46 PM
  #30  
aviography
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Originally Posted by paul29
If they did not clean the mounting surface on the rotors where the lathe holding points contact, then the rotors can be turned but the hub centerline may not be true to the centerline of the disc pad face and will pulse the pads . I use an angle grinder with a wire cup brush to clean rust or dirt buildup on the hub part of the rotor both sides that attach to the lathe so it then has the original clean surfaces for mounting. Any build up at all on the lathe mounting points will turn the rotor's brake face off center. I am referring to the typical brake lathes used at most shops.
Very true, I use a flexible abrasive material disk in a drill to clean up the mounting face both sides of the hub area first.


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