Ontario Drive Clean results: "Not Ready" ?
04-04-2014, 09:26 AM
#32
Pro
Thread Starter
Thanks all.. Guess I have some troubleshooting as everything says pass except evap which is a big fat FAIL.
If I resolve whatever the issue is (fuel cap etc) will the system switch to PASS after a period of time automatically, or will the system need to be reset in order to cycle the evap system test again?
If I resolve whatever the issue is (fuel cap etc) will the system switch to PASS after a period of time automatically, or will the system need to be reset in order to cycle the evap system test again?
04-04-2014, 01:09 PM
#33
Hey, don't sweat it...you do not need all of your readiness monitors to be online for you to pass. The ministry allows one monitor to be "not-ready"
Evap is a very difficult monitor to come online...so don't bother. It may not have any issue at all.
(sorry, just read some of the previous comments, they too are right)
Evap is a very difficult monitor to come online...so don't bother. It may not have any issue at all.
(sorry, just read some of the previous comments, they too are right)
04-04-2014, 02:11 PM
#34
Captain Obvious
Super User
Super User
If your Evap has failed then the CEL should be on too. Is it on? One way to get around it is to reset the system, drive it untill all but the Evap system is ready and then go right away for an Etest (before the Evap system registers a fail). Check the gas cap gasket.
04-04-2014, 02:59 PM
#35
Pro
Thread Starter
No CEL, everything is fine. Checked the gasket last night, looks fine.. Re-tightened.
Called the Drive Clean folks today, they say Evap System "FAIL" on my scanner likely means NOT READY which is good enough to pass since the Cat has gone from "Not Ready" to "PASS". I should be in the clear.
My Drive Clean test says I can reset the system as long as I drive 30km after the reset, otherwise my retest is invalid and I'll be on the hook for another initial test. I'll reset everything, check the scanner right away to see what it says, cycle everything again, then recheck again.. Hopefully pass across the board.
P.S. Drive Clean 1-800# cycling instructions are pretty much bang on to what others have suggested.
Called the Drive Clean folks today, they say Evap System "FAIL" on my scanner likely means NOT READY which is good enough to pass since the Cat has gone from "Not Ready" to "PASS". I should be in the clear.
My Drive Clean test says I can reset the system as long as I drive 30km after the reset, otherwise my retest is invalid and I'll be on the hook for another initial test. I'll reset everything, check the scanner right away to see what it says, cycle everything again, then recheck again.. Hopefully pass across the board.
P.S. Drive Clean 1-800# cycling instructions are pretty much bang on to what others have suggested.
Last edited by zer026T; 04-04-2014 at 03:39 PM.
04-04-2014, 05:07 PM
#36
Pro
Thread Starter
Just reset the system again, everything on the Durametric now reports "FAIL" (Not Ready) ---- I should be good once cycling the system again even if the evap system doesn't ready up... thanks everyone!!!
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04-04-2014, 07:37 PM
#38
Pro
Thread Starter
Wanted to validate that 'FAIL' on the durametric was equal to 'NOT READY' status. Now that everything shows FAIL I can confirm the evap FAIL is equivalent to NOT READY. I was worried that FAIL meant something entirely different :-)
04-08-2014, 09:51 PM
#41
Pro
Thread Starter
Took in the car yesterday before work, passed! Evaporative system still showing Not Ready but the tech said that could be due to the lower temperatures outside (??). Happy to see the province mandates a program that may or may not pass based on the current weather conditions 
So after all is said and done I burnt ~$40 in fuel to ready up the emissions systems between the test and retest, added ~200km to my odometer, spent ~1.5hrs of my time driving and waiting at the test facility, and dropped $60 for the test/retest.
If I had known resetting my ECU over the winter would have caused the extra grief I would have just driven the car for a couple of weeks before doing the test... that's what I get for trying to avoid procrastinating
So after all is said and done I burnt ~$40 in fuel to ready up the emissions systems between the test and retest, added ~200km to my odometer, spent ~1.5hrs of my time driving and waiting at the test facility, and dropped $60 for the test/retest.
If I had known resetting my ECU over the winter would have caused the extra grief I would have just driven the car for a couple of weeks before doing the test... that's what I get for trying to avoid procrastinating
04-08-2014, 11:38 PM
#43
Captain Obvious
Super User
Super User
The test is good for two years if you are keeping the car and one year if you are selling it (you have one year from the date of the test to sell it or else it needs a new test)
04-09-2014, 04:14 AM
#44
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Unsure if you have done the test again. Have been through this myself with my 997.
This worked with a OBDII reader from Canadian Tire and test below
1) Start cold engine and idle for approximately 2 minutes, 10 seconds. This checks secondary air injection and evaporative leak detection systems.
2) Accelerate to 20-30 MPH and maintain steady speed for 3 minutes, 15 seconds. This establishes closed loop oxy-sensor operations, response times & switching times.
3) Accelerate to 40-60 MPH and maintain steady speed for 15-20 minutes. This evaluates catalytic converters while oxy-sensor response and switching times are checked.
4) De-accelerate and come to a stop. Idle in gear for 5-6 minutes. This checks evaporative leak detection system.
Remember:
The diagnostic checks above will be discontinued if:
1) Engine speeds exceed 3000 RPM
2) Large fluctuations in throttle position
3) Road speeds exceed 60 MPH
Good Luck.
This worked with a OBDII reader from Canadian Tire and test below
1) Start cold engine and idle for approximately 2 minutes, 10 seconds. This checks secondary air injection and evaporative leak detection systems.
2) Accelerate to 20-30 MPH and maintain steady speed for 3 minutes, 15 seconds. This establishes closed loop oxy-sensor operations, response times & switching times.
3) Accelerate to 40-60 MPH and maintain steady speed for 15-20 minutes. This evaluates catalytic converters while oxy-sensor response and switching times are checked.
4) De-accelerate and come to a stop. Idle in gear for 5-6 minutes. This checks evaporative leak detection system.
Remember:
The diagnostic checks above will be discontinued if:
1) Engine speeds exceed 3000 RPM
2) Large fluctuations in throttle position
3) Road speeds exceed 60 MPH
Good Luck.
Just curious, where does one do that with no stop lights? and your not going to do 40 mph on any major hwy.
I'm not knocking this exercise to pass the test, but it seems insane to me that we have to jump thru loops like this to pass a stupid emissions test.
The banks hand out loans and mortgages easier to unqualified people then it is to pass the emissions test it seems.
I'm not knocking this exercise to pass the test, but it seems insane to me that we have to jump thru loops like this to pass a stupid emissions test.
The banks hand out loans and mortgages easier to unqualified people then it is to pass the emissions test it seems.
Not ready is not the same as fail. You are allowed one not ready but not allowed to have a fail. Usually the evap system is the one that takes the longest (days sometimes weeks) so the drive clean program allowes one not to be ready. If you only have one not ready you will pass.
The test is only good for one year. They only require you to test every second year, though.
04-10-2014, 05:13 PM
#45
I suspect EA is one of the only facilities that offers to handle this issue for our clients. We have techs and drivers completing readiness for our clients almost daily.
It seems that with our process, we can get a car "ready" in about 30 minutes. Certainly makes life easier for people that just don't have time to muck around with this. On occassion, we also do it on the dyno.
Case in point...how else are you going to set readiness in February on a Carrera GT?
It seems that with our process, we can get a car "ready" in about 30 minutes. Certainly makes life easier for people that just don't have time to muck around with this. On occassion, we also do it on the dyno.
Case in point...how else are you going to set readiness in February on a Carrera GT?