Winter Storage
#16
Drifting
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It's something that is a "smart" charger, the CTEK one Canadian Tire used to be on sale for $50 has car and motorcycle and winter mode, it trickle charges the battery and will automatically turn on and off as required, I've used it for 2 winters without any ill effect. Porsche dealership sells the same unit for $150, the only difference is the Porsche logo and the cigarette lighter plug at the end of the cord where the "standard" version only comes with alligator clips.
Unfortunately CT doesn't seem to sell the CTEK charger anymore, you maybe able to find them elsewhere on line, or maybe in the "discontinued" section at CT or Partsource stores.
Unfortunately CT doesn't seem to sell the CTEK charger anymore, you maybe able to find them elsewhere on line, or maybe in the "discontinued" section at CT or Partsource stores.
#17
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At the dealership they told me.
+ inflate tires to 50 psi
+ lock the car (puts electronics on sleep mode)
+ battery tender (do a ~30min highway run to charge the battery beforehand since the tenders tend to only charge it to about 50%
+ do an oil change in the spring, you'll get some condensation over the winter
+ inflate tires to 50 psi
+ lock the car (puts electronics on sleep mode)
+ battery tender (do a ~30min highway run to charge the battery beforehand since the tenders tend to only charge it to about 50%
+ do an oil change in the spring, you'll get some condensation over the winter
#18
Drifting
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^ The 50psi and lock the car part I fully agree, tender only charge to 50% I'm not sure.
But I would prefer to change the oil before the storage to rid of any undesirable chemicals built up over the driving season, so that clean oil baths the internal engine components, as for moisture built up over winter, that's going to be super minimal and will get burnt off within one good drive come next spring, IMHO of course.
But I would prefer to change the oil before the storage to rid of any undesirable chemicals built up over the driving season, so that clean oil baths the internal engine components, as for moisture built up over winter, that's going to be super minimal and will get burnt off within one good drive come next spring, IMHO of course.
#19
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> tender only charge to 50% I'm not sure.
He was specifically talked about the Porsche (CTEK) kind, and said it was best to start with a charged battery as they may not always fully recharge it.
> oil change
They had my car on the lift (since I dropped the car off, to checkout the BMW 328d touring next door), so when I came back I spoke to him about my intentions for an oil change before storing the car. He advised against it unless I was planning to get another one done in the spring, he said some people do both (fall and spring).
He was specifically talked about the Porsche (CTEK) kind, and said it was best to start with a charged battery as they may not always fully recharge it.
> oil change
They had my car on the lift (since I dropped the car off, to checkout the BMW 328d touring next door), so when I came back I spoke to him about my intentions for an oil change before storing the car. He advised against it unless I was planning to get another one done in the spring, he said some people do both (fall and spring).
#20
Race Car
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Moth ***** don't work. Neighbour swore by 'em - '63 Triumph T4a is full of nests. There really isn't a better mouse trap. It's way easier to drive on and off foam pads than changing tire pressure. I have a humidistat in my garage. Humidity is so low in winter you really don't need to do anything. I do run a dehumidifier whenever it rains and during the fall as humidity is very high and on cooler days you can get condensation on the car. **** 'eh?
#21
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-50 PSI in the tires and rest the tires on 2" foam
-Steel wool in intake runner and exhaust (To stop mice)
-Electronic pest control device in garage
-Oil change (I leave the filter for the spring change)
-Door locked
-Battery tender hard wired to battery
-Clean, waxed and covered
-Silicone on rubber seals, door seals etc
That's what I do. The foam under the tires is just cheap insurance.
I have had mice issue in the past, the electronic pest control device I got has kept my garage critter free the past three years.
http://www.victorpest.com/store/mouse-control/m792
I still park one car at my mothers house and put one of these under the car since her garage is packed full of nice places for mice to take up residence.
-Steel wool in intake runner and exhaust (To stop mice)
-Electronic pest control device in garage
-Oil change (I leave the filter for the spring change)
-Door locked
-Battery tender hard wired to battery
-Clean, waxed and covered
-Silicone on rubber seals, door seals etc
That's what I do. The foam under the tires is just cheap insurance.
I have had mice issue in the past, the electronic pest control device I got has kept my garage critter free the past three years.
http://www.victorpest.com/store/mouse-control/m792
I still park one car at my mothers house and put one of these under the car since her garage is packed full of nice places for mice to take up residence.
#22
Race Car
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The more humane way of preventing unwanted visitors is to place moth ***** around the perimeter of the car. You could add them anywhere really. Cedar scented ones won't smell like a grandma's been driving your car.
I also use a fresh box of baking soda in the car and leave the car windows cracked open to breath. This prevents odor from building up.
I also use a fresh box of baking soda in the car and leave the car windows cracked open to breath. This prevents odor from building up.
If I see one in the garage, I'll unload a whole load of paintballs!
#23
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much easier if you just put the car indoors
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#24
Drifting
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The speed shops still sell them - I got mine on the Queensway near Islington - Performance Improvements I think.
#26
Rest In Peace Jaak
Cable Guy
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I put mine into storage around Dec 15. I do the following (over 12 years)
1. Change the oil - do not want the crud and acids sitting in crankcase!
2. Inflate tires to max rating and park it on top of 2" Styrofoam.
3. Disconnect battery AFTER I fully charge it (I have a battery charger, Intelligent type) YMMV.
4. I leave a 1/4 tank of gas with stabil. Our tanks are PLASTIC and do you want to run the car with crap gas in the spring? I fire it up in spring and drive to the nearest Shell station.
5. Use a volcanic deodorizer inside car with windows lowered for airflow.
6. Cover car and dream of spring.
Been doing this as well as friends shop with no issues. I know of one person who did use a tender over winter and fried the battery as the tender went bad. If you have access to the car in your garage, you can get one of the Intelligent chargers from CT and hook it up every 3 to 4 weeks to keep it charged up. Don't start it without driving it a bit, otherwise you will cause issues with the exhaust and motor. It needs to get to full operating temp and idling will not do it.
1. Change the oil - do not want the crud and acids sitting in crankcase!
2. Inflate tires to max rating and park it on top of 2" Styrofoam.
3. Disconnect battery AFTER I fully charge it (I have a battery charger, Intelligent type) YMMV.
4. I leave a 1/4 tank of gas with stabil. Our tanks are PLASTIC and do you want to run the car with crap gas in the spring? I fire it up in spring and drive to the nearest Shell station.
5. Use a volcanic deodorizer inside car with windows lowered for airflow.
6. Cover car and dream of spring.
Been doing this as well as friends shop with no issues. I know of one person who did use a tender over winter and fried the battery as the tender went bad. If you have access to the car in your garage, you can get one of the Intelligent chargers from CT and hook it up every 3 to 4 weeks to keep it charged up. Don't start it without driving it a bit, otherwise you will cause issues with the exhaust and motor. It needs to get to full operating temp and idling will not do it.
#28
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I must be crazy. I don't do anything special (car kept in attached garage). But, I start the car at least every 2 weeks and move it a bit to avoid flat spots. I keep all my insurance on all year so that on cold clear days I can take it on a short run up the Allen expressway, along the 401 and back----maybe a 20-30 min run. I am very careful because I know the tire grip and PCCB are sub-optimal in the cold. Am I wrong? I have had four new 911's and I have had no issues at all1988/1992/2009/2014).
#29
Nordschleife Master
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i think its fine. your technically not storing the car.
starting the car, driving it and moving it around every 2 weeks keeps the car running and the trips on allen road will keep the battery charged.
besides from your epic list it looks like youve been doing this for 25 years with no issues.
starting the car, driving it and moving it around every 2 weeks keeps the car running and the trips on allen road will keep the battery charged.
besides from your epic list it looks like youve been doing this for 25 years with no issues.
I must be crazy. I don't do anything special (car kept in attached garage). But, I start the car at least every 2 weeks and move it a bit to avoid flat spots. I keep all my insurance on all year so that on cold clear days I can take it on a short run up the Allen expressway, along the 401 and back----maybe a 20-30 min run. I am very careful because I know the tire grip and PCCB are sub-optimal in the cold. Am I wrong? I have had four new 911's and I have had no issues at all1988/1992/2009/2014).
#30
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some people store their's, and others...
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