Looking for Christien
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
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Christien, I'm looking at a transmission rebuild in the very near future. Did you post here or PP when you rebuilt your gear box. Can't seem to find the thread, any help would be great.
Brad
Brad
#2
Race Car
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Phew, I thought this was about my speeding ticket from the weekend! ![Big Grin](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
The thread was on Pelican:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...5-rebuild.html
In particular, you want to pay attention to posts from John Walker and Jim Sims - they're the experts. Not that the other posts are dubious. There are a few mistakes in there that got corrected, so make sure you read ahead before following anything. I made sure to write up about anything that needed correcting.
Have you got all the requisite tools? You don't need all of them right off the top, but you'll need the jig and the appropriate torque wrenches. You're welcome to use my jig, if it's the same (I think it is). Also, make sure you've got the right sealant for the case. You don't want to do what I did (seal it improperly and have to drop the whole thing and crack it open to reseal it).
Getting the main shaft nut off is a nightmare - the torque spec is something like 200 ft/lbs, and after years of heat cycling that thing is ridiculous to get off. What we ended up doing was mounting the tranny on a work bench, strapping it down with metal strapping screwed into the workbench, and one person bear-hugging it to the workbench while the other used the 36mm socket (available at Partsource, or borrow mine - it's expensive, about $30, and I haven't had any other use for it) with a 3 foot breaker bar. I'm almost 200 lbs and I was literally off the floor hanging on the breaker bar. And that was after a week of PB Blaster plus heating then splashing cold water on it (quick expansion and compression to help break it loose). We got it, but it was a bitch.
Start a thread on PP like I did, so you'll have a place to post your questions and get answers. Pics are invaluable, and what I did was make videos of each piece, turning it over in my hand and noting any part #s on it. Another trick I read is to slip everything onto a coat hanger or long zip tie as you disassemble, to retain order and orientation - obviously order is critical, but some piece also aren't reversable in terms of flipping upside down, so you have to make sure you get the right orientation.
I've also got a binder of exploded parts diagrams I printed off to refer to. You're welcome to borrow that too, though it's a bit dirty![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Good luck! I'm far from an expert compared to John Walker, but feel free to pm or email with questions. cledroit@gmail.com
![Big Grin](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
The thread was on Pelican:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...5-rebuild.html
In particular, you want to pay attention to posts from John Walker and Jim Sims - they're the experts. Not that the other posts are dubious. There are a few mistakes in there that got corrected, so make sure you read ahead before following anything. I made sure to write up about anything that needed correcting.
Have you got all the requisite tools? You don't need all of them right off the top, but you'll need the jig and the appropriate torque wrenches. You're welcome to use my jig, if it's the same (I think it is). Also, make sure you've got the right sealant for the case. You don't want to do what I did (seal it improperly and have to drop the whole thing and crack it open to reseal it).
Getting the main shaft nut off is a nightmare - the torque spec is something like 200 ft/lbs, and after years of heat cycling that thing is ridiculous to get off. What we ended up doing was mounting the tranny on a work bench, strapping it down with metal strapping screwed into the workbench, and one person bear-hugging it to the workbench while the other used the 36mm socket (available at Partsource, or borrow mine - it's expensive, about $30, and I haven't had any other use for it) with a 3 foot breaker bar. I'm almost 200 lbs and I was literally off the floor hanging on the breaker bar. And that was after a week of PB Blaster plus heating then splashing cold water on it (quick expansion and compression to help break it loose). We got it, but it was a bitch.
Start a thread on PP like I did, so you'll have a place to post your questions and get answers. Pics are invaluable, and what I did was make videos of each piece, turning it over in my hand and noting any part #s on it. Another trick I read is to slip everything onto a coat hanger or long zip tie as you disassemble, to retain order and orientation - obviously order is critical, but some piece also aren't reversable in terms of flipping upside down, so you have to make sure you get the right orientation.
I've also got a binder of exploded parts diagrams I printed off to refer to. You're welcome to borrow that too, though it's a bit dirty
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Good luck! I'm far from an expert compared to John Walker, but feel free to pm or email with questions. cledroit@gmail.com
#3
Race Car
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
One other thing I just thought of - my tranny is the first year of the 915, and as such, retains many bit of the 901 that disappeared very quickly. Most of it is insignificant (no helper omega spring, different shifter housing, 4 speeds, not 5) but it's similar enough that I could use later 915 pics and instructions to do it. But if something looks different from yours, don't let it confuse you.
#4
Racer
Thread Starter
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Hey thanks for the link - I remember reading your thread and thinking this is great - I could not find it, and I get frustrated with 'search'. I will owe you one for sure if I can borrow your specialty tools.![thumbup](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/thumbup.gif)
"Looking for Christien" - I wonder how many people thought the same thing - oh he's in trouble![Wink](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
BG
![thumbup](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/thumbup.gif)
"Looking for Christien" - I wonder how many people thought the same thing - oh he's in trouble
![Wink](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
BG
#5
Race Car
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If you can bypass the frustrating bits, then the process is really a lot of fun. It's mostly straightforward - the only real trip up spot is the detents. If you haven't yet, you'll come across these in your reading, and when you get to that stage, pay attention, because if you get it wrong, you won't know until you try to get the car into or out of gear, and the whole thing has to come out to fix it. I got it right, but only by luck
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#6
Team Owner
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I might have some links that can help out also , definitely worth reading . I iwll see if I can dig it up ..
try this
I think you guys will find this very good reading .. I printed the whole thing out ..
http://porsche.wikidot.com/system:pa...g/transmission
try this
I think you guys will find this very good reading .. I printed the whole thing out ..
http://porsche.wikidot.com/system:pa...g/transmission
#7
Racer
Thread Starter
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Thanks guys, Now I have to decide if I do now ( start this weekend ) or leave as a winter project.
Ice - I had stumbled onto that site the other day - great site - and now I have the kink to save - most excellent
Ice - I had stumbled onto that site the other day - great site - and now I have the kink to save - most excellent
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#8
Race Car
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My advice would be to wait until winter. Even if you worked at it full time, it's going to take you a week, assuming you don't break or lose something and need to wait to order it. Have you ever dropped the engine before? If not, there's your first day right there, and another to get it back in. I think a pro shop would still require the car for at least 2 or 3 days. If you can still drive it through the rest of the season, I'd say do so.