Bergamasco

I never thought about the effects of an extension but that makes a lot of sense. Thanks for that tip, Imre.

Turbodan

for a wide body 993, on the rears, an extension should be used, unless you don't like the finish of your paint

PPo

A few points just for kicks:

I bought a dedicated socket for lug nuts. I keep fresh tape wrapped around it. In a hurry you won't scuff up your rims, you can also find it really fast since it is the only socket wrapped in red/duct tape!

Be sure to buy an impact socket. The typical sand cast ones will eventually break if you continually use it... I know from experience. (Cdn Tire sells a great impact set and lately it is always on sale. Buy the one with the manual impact wrench (looks like a broken black screwdriver) and learn how to use it. Once you learn how to use this you will use it everywhere you have a tough nut/bolt to take off. Wonderfull little tool.)

Don't be afraid to rub a little anti-sieze on your lug bolts/nuts from time to time. No, it does not change the torque spec enough to be concerned. No it will not provide lubrication for the nut/bolt to back off. The various combinations of alloys on the rims, nuts, and bolts eventually galls and can be more difficult then rusty bolts to get off. Anti-seize ensures safe, long life, of everything.

If you are a track monkey, carry around extra lug nuts/bolts. I always have a complete spare set on hand, and also keep old ones just in case. You loose one at the track, day over.

Buy the longest torque wrench you can handle. Less grunt means more accuracy and care.

Never loosen your bolts with a torque wrench. Buy a very long breaker bar, with a nice extension, to at least crack the bolts.

I use a combination of a Cdn Tire cordless impact gun, long breaker bar, extensions, speed wrench, and a Cdn tire torque wrench. Changed tires 100s of times at home and the track. My poor pit helper (wife or friend depending) and I can change a set in well under 10 minutes.

Hope this helps somebody...

imcarthur

Actually some great points PPo:
What manual impact? A hammer variety? A Swench? To date, I have accomplished all with a long breaker bar but I'm getting old . . .

Ian

JimV8

+ 1 on taping the socket for the lug nuts.

PPo

I should have clarified, I doubt you would need to use a impact driver to get lug nuts off. Maybe if they where really stuck.

Here is a good description of what I was reffering too: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Impact_driver

Best tool in the world to remove those little screws that hold on the brake rotors of a 944!

the flyin' scotsman

Imre points re. extentions are well said.

Money spent on good tools will last a life time...........I personally bought 2 torque wrenches +25 years ago, both are Snap On, one is for smaller fastners in inch pounds the other for bigger up to 100 ft lbs, calibrated every couple of years and always set to zero after use...........they're still perfect.

Bergamasco

Dang! This is great. Do you guys work for wikipedia or a company that publishes shop manuals? Thanks a bunch. I hope that I can soon also offer some helpful tips. - Glenn

PPo

Agreed... I have some Snap-On line wrenches worth more then a set of tires, and nobody is allowed to borrow, or even touch them. They are the only wrenches I wil use on brake lines. After stripping many fittings over the years, an old mechanic showed me the size difference between a good wrench and a crappy wrench. One thing you are paying for is the accuracy, precision, and fit. For something I will pass onto my son, the price isn't realy an issue.

I have torque wrenches that I use for engines/brakes that never leave the shop, and then I have Torque wrenches I bring to the track. Accuracy on lug nuts/bolts isn't that big a deal despite what people believe. What is important is consistency on all nuts/bolts and making sure they are within area of spec. A little tighter or a bit looser isn't that big a deal.

After spending years in tech line checking people's nuts (LOL!) at PCA events, I realized almost every car torqued to "spec" is different...

Snap-on for the home, Cdn Tire for the track and quick jobs.

Raymond Lum

From: PPO
1+

Beware to know what kind of nuts/bolts you have on your Porsche wheels.

993 and earlier street cars have aluminum nuts, they should be torqued at 85 lbs.

996 and 997 steel bolts should be torqued at 95 lbs.

If you have aluminum nuts and you track your car often, I highly recommend replacing them with steel nuts for extra strength/torque. They can strip on you over time and loose the torque effectiveness.

acadian_dad

In fact, it is a requirement to use anti-sieze. Some discussion on this exact point going on in the 997 forum.

The local C_Tire only carries Permatex copper based anti-sieze - while the manual says to use Optimoly-TA which appears to be an aluminum based anti-sieze from what I could find online. Just wondering if there would be any issues with using the copper based stuff ? Or, anyone know where to get Optimoly-TA in Ottawa ???

theiceman

I have always used the copper even before it ever became an off the shelf product. I spray it on the rotors so they don't stick to the hub abd the whel won't stick to the rotor.

NEVER had an issue.