just read this and wanted to suggest covering the effected area with vaseline. this seals it from air which is necessary for oxidation. not a neat solution but will delay the rust until you get it fixed. good for big stone chips that rust as well.
as a teen I had a BMW with polished aluminum wheels and I drove it in winter so I covered the wheels with lithium grease to prevent rust and sprayed them off in spring

 

Thanks for sharing Dan. I haven’t seen Vaseline used on a car since my dad religiously did so on battery terminals when I was a kid. Cheers.

 

What is the going rate these days for full ppl and ceramic? For a 911.

 

Happy to price it out for.you. Please give us a call or email appointments@therefinery.ltd and we can discuss. Thanks!

 

Heyo, thanks for all the advice here, was hoping to get your thoughts on some PPF issues I'm having with a new car.

Background
I bought a CPO GT3 in Carrera White and it has full PPF from the previous owner. The PPF edges seems to get dirty within 24 hours after washing if its raining. From what I can see, dirt is able to seep into the first 2mm of most of the ppf edges. The PPF was applied 2 years ago, and I doubt it has had any maintenance done to it since.

Questions

1. Is it normal for PPF to start failing around the edges this early or is it safe to assume the film was improperly applied?
2. What are my options for remediation? Can heat be used to get the edges to stick again, or do we need to remove it all?
3. If remediation is not possible, is there a risk of these dirty edges causing permanent damage to the paint if not cleaned often?
4. Any tips to clean the edges?

Thanks for the help. Never had PPF before.

 

Hi!

Without question, white and yellow cars show collected dirt/dust along exposed edges of PPF the most. This is why we always wrap PPF edges into panel gaps wherever possible - so that we can eliminate to opportunity for dirt to collect along the border of the PPF. For example, most hoods, fenders, doors have NO visible seams since you can wrap the PPF edges behind the entire perimeter of the panel.

Dirt/water shouldn't creep into the first 2mm of the PPF edges - unless something like a pressure-washer was used to blast away dirt from these edges at a close distance. PSA: a pressure washer should never be used for it's blasting power to clean a car. Its benefit is to provide an ample flow of water in a nicely controlled fan pattern. It should always be kept 12-18" away from the surface to avoid causing damage to PPF, trim, stone chips, emblems etc.

Some helpful background: PPF is installed wet so installers have the opportunity to stretch, slide and position the PPF sheet on the panel before committing it into place by pushing the excess water out with a squeegee. But that wet adhesive can take a few days to fully dry out and set on the panel surface. The edges are the most susceptible to water until those edges have fully dried and adhered to the surface below. For these reasons, we always warn customers NOT to blast their new PPF with a pressure washer - especially during the first couple of weeks. Wind is not an issue (ie driving), but 3k PSI water pointed at a PPF edge from 3" away could be.

To help mitigate this, installers should use a heat gun around the perimeter of the newly installed PPF to accelerate the drying-out process and to get the adhesive to set securely before the car leaves. That's the best way to ensure water is kept from creeping into the edges on the first few days of use after installation.

Once water has crept into the edges, there's no remedy for the existing film other than to trim off the loose material. But this can look bad if it's creating a visible edge 2-3mm away from a panel edge. If it's in an inconspicuous area, it's a good option. Otherwise if you want to fix it permanently, you will likely have to remove and reinstall the damaged panels.

Having fraying PPF edges does not present any issues for the paint below. After removing the PPF, you'll want to polish the surface again anyway which will definitely resolve any sign of the dirt that was trapped against the paint.

To safely clean PPF edges, use a proper wash mitt along the edges with your soapy water when washing. If dirt is more stubbornly built up along the perimeter, you can use a soft-bristled brush with your soapy water and/or APC to agitate it away. Our new Ultrasoft Detailing brushes are literally the BEST brushes we've ever used - and they're excellent for this purpose.

DO NOT BLAST PPF EDGES AT CLOSE DISTANCES WITH A PRESSURE WASHER

HTH!

 

Hey Gerard…here’s a good one for you. I’m looking at a one owner 993 and the owner revealed that the rear deck lid Carrera emblem broke in half when he was washing it a few years ago. He ‘glued’ the broken half back in place…and admits it was a dumb move. Do you think it is possible to remove the glue without ruining the paint? If I get the car, I’ll be bringing to you for paint correction and stone guards…

 

One owner 993? 🤩

Any idea what type of glue it was? My guess is that the emblem will break free, leaving the glue residue behind. Ideally you/we could use a paint-safe chemical to get the glue off, and then polish the surface for any marring left behind.

Even in the worst case scenario where all the glue residue doesn't come off, you might find it is hidden beneath the new emblem if the glue was only applied to the lettering.

It might take a little experimenting, but I'm sure we can sort it out 👍

 

Thanks Gerard…’like crazy glue” was the best he could remember. Yes, one owner, 20,000 miles, midnight blue 🤤

 

Gerard….I forgot to ask last time you helped me out, what do you suggest washing the car with after the ceramic treatment. Can you use the ‘ceramic’ wash products in the CTC detailing isle or the Meguire soft soft stuff which is supposed to be super gentle?

 

Hey! You can use your any of your fav car wash soaps. Ceramic coating is extremely chemically resistant, so it's really not sensitive to wash soap.

But do use a soap that is made for washing, and that you've had good results with. We've found that some of the soaps with lots of wax/rinse additives can sometimes leave odd residue behind. But nothing that could harm the coating.

HTH!

 

Take a look at the Refinerys website. I bought a good supply of both interior and exterior supplies from them. Also bought brushes and a few odd and end stuff, got bored one night and went to town.

 

I don’t know what I was thinking?….you are 100 percent right go-ran…with Gerard’s help on this thread for me and others, it is the least I can do.

 

honestly I dont blame you. I never knew until I looked them up online and seen that they sell products for the DIY crowd also. I would be buying alot more if i didnt live in a condo.


SOOOO... maybe its on them to atleast advertise a touch more. I was very happy with their stuff and will continue to purchase from them. I know its so easy to buy online and search for the cheapest price but I do like to support local, especially when they take time to post alot of helpful info.

 

If you read the number of helpful tips that Gerard gives, you’ll see that he frequently names products that he has available online or in shop.
I am fortunate enough to live nearby so I purchase at The Refinery. Bonus is that I get lessons on use of the products by the masters.
Much appreciated!