rm21

I'm considering purchasing a GT4 Clubsport. There are several available in the market, including one that is available in my area that had its tub replaced after an incident. It has < 3k race miles with good options and the spares package. As long as the install was done correctly, is this any cause for concern? I may only keep the car for a season, so I don't want to purchase it if this is going to be a showstopper for future buyers.

ir_fuel

I think you also need to look at the exact spec of the car wrt what kit is installed. What fuel tank has it got for instance?

Frank 993 C4S

There is nothing wrong with a car that has been re-tubbed after an accident provided engine and gearbox are ok and the work has been done by an experienced shop without cutting corners. It seems to be a very frequent theme with the Clubsports given their aluminum bodies.

At the end, it all depends what you want to do with the car. If you want to race it, you need to make sure that it is compliant with the series rules that you are going to race in. If it's a former PCA CS Class car, you should be good racing it in PCA. As with any race car, a documented maintenance history is key. and have a proper PPI done. There are some very well priced cars available from Europe right now given the strong US$ exchange rate.

mark kibort

Aluminum bodies.. i didnt know that.. how do they convert these into a race car with the cage installation being a little different than steel uni bodied porsches?

stujelly

So my gt4 clubsport is a new tub. I bought the car with 250 miles and some damage, replaced the tub and it was a brand new car.

If done right, that should never be a concern but an improvement,

With these 991 cups and the 987 caymans a repair would scare me more. These alum cars are hard to repair and if not put on a cellet (sp) rack for proper alignment then run away.

ProCoach

Having examined several CS GT4's up close, it's infinitely preferable to retub than repair, although any time minor and major pieces are transferred (and not replaced), malfunctions mistakes and errors are possible. I think as a buyer, you would want to negotiate a good enough price going in that you would be safe coming out... they're good cars, but the tub is not the only thing that is fragile...

winders

How much is a tub?

stujelly

a tub is 55k from pmna

then upon evidence of fully crushing the old tub you get 10k back

bpu699

Just curious... How much doesn't cost to put all the gear on the new tub?

That has to be a nightmare... How many hours is that? Putting the big stuff in is probably easy... But the wiring, etc... Has to take a long time..

And reselling the roll cage, etc...

Wouldn't it be cheaper to just buy another already set up car?

tcsracing1

New or virgin car with slight use is obviously the best resale. Especially low hours.
But fresh tub cars are also nice option, especially as the supply of new tubs runs thin.
(fresh/clean Retubed Cup cars have sold well, especially for the older cup models that no longer have access to tubs.)

Most of the GT4CS in the market have all seen a season with very few left unused with low hours.
Some have had paint work. Only a few have been retubed.

Repaired panels are fine and dandy, but a fresh factory tub is as good as it gets when it comes to repairing race damage if you want to really be sure in what you are buying in the used GT4CS market if no virgins are left.
Fresh tub cars should fetch the same if not more then a car with similar hours and typical panel repair history. Bonus is the clean panels on retubed car.

These cars are built for a purpose. To go for the gold and accept any damage that may result, so they all cant remain virgins forever and the market knows that. Retubs are totally acceptable and are not firesale pricing.

Typically you Buy the lowest hour, cleanest car you can find, but If you can find a local car to you and get a great deal as result, then that is not a bad way to get into a GT4CS either. Hours/miles would be something to condsider apart from panel repair/retub.

Make sure what you buy is the spec you need.
The biggest spec difference to look for is the 70L tank and the 100L tank.
(70L tank gets you into PCA trophy east and Competent series. 100L tank gets you into IMSA and PWC)

stujelly

12k to 15k depending on the shop you use.

tcsracing1

45k for a new tub and 15k to put it back together plus parts end up being about half price of buying a used GT4CS.

Thank goodness for replacement motorsport tubs.

The roll cage is part of the body which comes in the new body therefore there is no removal or installation of the cage. (thankfully)

ProCoach

Big issue is the "open ended" potential for collateral damage. To do enough damage to contemplate retubbing means that rarely is the new tub all that is required. The ends and corners of the car are vulnerable, particularly the rear, so there are usually suspension pieces, sub frames and major mechanical bits affected as well.

That said, if you have access to purchasing a done, retubbed car that has run successfully and posted times to back it up, that can often be a pretty good deal. I wouldn't be scared off of a successfully demonstrated retub of a GT4 CS or Cup...

Cory M

Since you are only looking to run the car for a season and then sell, I would think that a car that hasn't been retubbed and has no stories to explain to potential buyers will sell faster when the time comes. The fact that you are asking about retubbing here shows that it causes the buyer some concern, regardless of whether or not the retubbed car is actually better. These are also supposed to be "entry level" racecars, so I think it could scare away an inexperienced racer. Why limit your resale possibilities unless you are getting a great purchase price?

James-GMG

Make sure what you buy is the spec you need.
The biggest spec difference to look for is the 70L tank and the 100L tank.
(70L tank gets you into PCA trophy east and Competent series. 100L tank gets you into IMSA and PWC)[/QUOTE]



The 100L cell cars are a nice option as they have the ability to not only run in both the Pro and Am Classes but also make refueling much easier for enduros with the addition of the dry break. But the price is hefty for an MR car with the 100L cell, so it's not for everyone.

We ordered all our cars with 100L cells and the MR spec and I will have 1-2 for sale by the end of the 2017 season as these CS's are all great starter cars for gents looking to get into wheel to wheel competition as the cars are so much easier to drive than a Cup.