914 track setups???
10-07-2003, 09:13 PM
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: NJ/WV
Posts: 151
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
914 track setups???
I was just thinking about setting up an old 914 for the track and was wondering what some of you guys do for your cars... I'm not really looking to go too crazy, just some local PCA/SCCA events.
10-07-2003, 09:26 PM
#2
Pro
Join Date: May 2001
Location: North Jersey
Posts: 674
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
In case you actually do want to go nuts
http://www.vehiclecraft.com/pictures...eare/index.htm
Kieth won group 2 at this past weekends Summit Point Club Race with this car
http://www.vehiclecraft.com/pictures...eare/index.htm
Kieth won group 2 at this past weekends Summit Point Club Race with this car
10-08-2003, 11:23 AM
#3
You’ll get a better response here at: http://www.914club.com to your question. Are you going to stay in a Stock class? If so what are the rules? Is car a 4 or 6? Most 4 cars will run somewhere between a 19mm/22 mm torsion bars and a 20 to 22 mm sway bar. A lot will run Koni shocks (yellow) with adjustable perches in order to be able to weight balance the car. No rear sway bar and replace all bushings with either poly or Precision Needle Bearings depending on how much you want to spend. Rear springs anywhere from 160 to 200 lbs.
10-08-2003, 04:25 PM
#4
Instructor
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: NJ/WV
Posts: 151
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
thanks for the info. I was looking to get into the improved touring class with a 914-4 probably a 2.0 L . That class is mainly suspension work, no real motor mods or tube chassis. However I'm beginning to think about the gt class that does allow those things... not sure.
01-27-2004, 10:45 PM
#5
User
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: New Smyrna Beach
Posts: 139
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
04-20-2004, 11:19 AM
#6
Cruisin'
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Annapoli, Maryland
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
PJKJ
Having raced a 914-6 from 1971 til 1979 in SCCA, I can tell you that GT class racing can cost quite a lot. The 914, is really a flexible flyer. Some of the first cages were welded in without the top attached. The result was a crooked car where the doors would not shut. In it's first race ,(Watkins Glen - before the rollcage), we removed the rear sway bar, borrowed a much bigger front bar, reduced the rear spring down to 150 lb/in, and could not get rid of the oversteer. The chassis was the spring.
Just some notes from the past-I know that you will have fun no matter which way you go. It's a great car to have fun with. As a 10 yr SCCA instructor, I like to reccomend that sometimes it is better to have fun first and then upgrade when your driving skills increase,
dennis k
Having raced a 914-6 from 1971 til 1979 in SCCA, I can tell you that GT class racing can cost quite a lot. The 914, is really a flexible flyer. Some of the first cages were welded in without the top attached. The result was a crooked car where the doors would not shut. In it's first race ,(Watkins Glen - before the rollcage), we removed the rear sway bar, borrowed a much bigger front bar, reduced the rear spring down to 150 lb/in, and could not get rid of the oversteer. The chassis was the spring.
Just some notes from the past-I know that you will have fun no matter which way you go. It's a great car to have fun with. As a 10 yr SCCA instructor, I like to reccomend that sometimes it is better to have fun first and then upgrade when your driving skills increase,
dennis k
04-21-2004, 02:53 AM
#7
Instructor
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Agoura, CA
Posts: 164
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Probably the main "limitation" of the 914 is in common with the early (narrow) 911's -- maximum wheel and tire size is severely limited by both body sheet metal as well as typical rule books. Most 914's are maxed-out at 205 tires without some body work.
All in all they are fabulous and fun, well-balanced cars. My best advice is to (a) check for RUST! and repair/replace/reinforce accordingly and (b) READ THE RULES for whichever group(s) you plan to drive with. One tiny change can make the diference between a fun and affordable season, and a frustrating and losing one because you have inadvertantly put yourself in a class with the "Big Dogs"...and there are always "Big Dogs" who are willing to commit more time and money than you, no matter where you and your car sit in the food chain!
Join us over at www.914club.com for high-traffic 914-specific coverage ...
All in all they are fabulous and fun, well-balanced cars. My best advice is to (a) check for RUST! and repair/replace/reinforce accordingly and (b) READ THE RULES for whichever group(s) you plan to drive with. One tiny change can make the diference between a fun and affordable season, and a frustrating and losing one because you have inadvertantly put yourself in a class with the "Big Dogs"...and there are always "Big Dogs" who are willing to commit more time and money than you, no matter where you and your car sit in the food chain!
Join us over at www.914club.com for high-traffic 914-specific coverage ...
Trending Topics
05-01-2004, 09:12 PM
#9
Pro
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 648
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by PJXJ
thanks for the info. I was looking to get into the improved touring class with a 914-4 probably a 2.0 L . That class is mainly suspension work, no real motor mods or tube chassis. However I'm beginning to think about the gt class that does allow those things... not sure.
thanks for the info. I was looking to get into the improved touring class with a 914-4 probably a 2.0 L . That class is mainly suspension work, no real motor mods or tube chassis. However I'm beginning to think about the gt class that does allow those things... not sure.
(ITA) 914-4 2.0L (73-76) Max CR: 7.6:1, Wt. 2230 lbs., 15x7 max wheel
(ITB) 914-4 1.7L (70-73) Max CR: 8.2:1, Wt. 2080 lbs., 15x6 max wheel
(ITB) 914-4 1.8L (74-75) Max CR: 7.3:1, Wt. 2080 lbs., 15x6 max wheel
is it just a difference in bore for the 1.8 and 1.7L motors? It looks like the in/ex valves are different so I assume the heads aren't the same. A friend of mine ran a 914-4 2.0L in E Production a few years ago and loved the car, I personally really love the idea of running a 1.8L in F Production. Who knows, maybe some day
I have never seen an ITA 914, not saying it is a dog though - I have no idea what kind of power they could put down in IT prep. It would be running w/ the 924, CRX Si, Miata 1.6L, 2G Integra, 240SX, NX2000, Neon (DOHC/SOHC), Civic EX, Fiero V6 .. to name a few.
05-02-2004, 01:28 AM
#10
Instructor
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Agoura, CA
Posts: 164
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The FP 1.8 cars can be extremely fun and fast.
BUT be prepared to spend $10-15K for a grenade 8200rpm Type4 race motor that needs to be rebuilt every few events. Serious head work can make serious HP on these cars; it is not uncommon to hear of 100HP/L or more.
I believe the 2.0 ITA 914's are no longer competitive, but still fun to drive nonetheless.
Virtually everyone here in SoCal has convert to -6 power for reasons of longevity and also more fun, competitive running (in Porsche-specific groups) as you're in with the early 911's etc.
BUT be prepared to spend $10-15K for a grenade 8200rpm Type4 race motor that needs to be rebuilt every few events. Serious head work can make serious HP on these cars; it is not uncommon to hear of 100HP/L or more.
I believe the 2.0 ITA 914's are no longer competitive, but still fun to drive nonetheless.
Virtually everyone here in SoCal has convert to -6 power for reasons of longevity and also more fun, competitive running (in Porsche-specific groups) as you're in with the early 911's etc.
