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I have the set from apexperformance and like it a lot. I also deleted the front straps on my ratchet with these
I added through the wheel straps from them for my fronts but had to get longer ones for the rear due to length - wheel width and tire circumference. You have to make sure that the webbing is long enough. The ones from apexperformance are listed at 36", but that is from tip to tip. That causes issues when you try to hook up. I would recommend that you find some straps where the actual webbing is 36". I got these. A different color also helps which go onto the front and which on the rear.
Where did you source the direct hook setup that worked with your Apex straps?
Where did you source the direct hook setup that worked with your Apex straps?
I got my 2" Flat Snap Hooks w/Spacers from US Cargo Control. There are several other vendors. I just made sure that they carried the same rating as my straps.
There are 4 holes in the chassis (one on each corner) that are used for transporting the car - the pieces above go into those holes and your straps attach to those.
You are then directly attaching your straps to the chassis.
No risk of wheel damage or screwing up alignment settings.
Flat snap hooks are also available from MAC. Compare them...they are heavier duty than many others I've seen, and also come with a convenient lever on the back to deflect the locking mechanism. It makes for easy 1 hand operation.
This thread is too organized.. Let me throw a grenade in the room...
Should I cross straps or leave them straight?
It depends on the longitudinal distance from the car attachment point to the trailers attachment point.
The shorter the distance the less desirable to cross. As the distance goes down the angle goes up, when it gets to 45° 50% of the load is transverse and 50% is longitudinal. The primary force vector needed is the longitudinal part which prevents the car from rolling off the back or rolling forward. At extreme angles approaching 90° the component of force in the longitudinal direction approaches 0
On mine I cross the fronts because there is a long fetch and don't cross the rears because of the short fetch.
When tying to the wheels I like the trailer tie downs to be outside and spaced a good bit away from the wheel, though inside and a good bit away works as well. This leaves the points need for access free to get at and the primary force vectors in the longitudinal direction w/ a smaller transverse component. Stock trailer tie down points, especially w/ shorter trailers, usually don't allow for this arrangement.
I have decided against tying from the trailer floor to the car's chassis. Doing so will compress the suspension to some extent. Tying to the wheels with a very small angle from the car's centerline allows the chassis to ride normally on the suspension and the car to remain planted longitudinally. I think there is little risk of the car moving laterally given the forces at work in my enclosed trailer (as long as I keep it on the road!). Straps will not be crossed for reasons noted by Bill a couple of posts above.
It depends on the longitudinal distance from the car attachment point to the trailers attachment point.
The shorter the distance the less desirable to cross. As the distance goes down the angle goes up, when it gets to 45° 50% of the load is transverse and 50% is longitudinal. The primary force vector needed is the longitudinal part which prevents the car from rolling off the back or rolling forward. At extreme angles approaching 90° the component of force in the longitudinal direction approaches 0
On mine I cross the fronts because there is a long fetch and don't cross the rears because of the short fetch.
When tying to the wheels I like the trailer tie downs to be outside and spaced a good bit away from the wheel, though inside and a good bit away works as well. This leaves the points need for access free to get at and the primary force vectors in the longitudinal direction w/ a smaller transverse component. Stock trailer tie down points, especially w/ shorter trailers, usually don't allow for this arrangement.
Dammit Bill... adding logic to the discussion... stop that :-)
The rennline tie downs work great. Just clip on and go. I don't see my car squatting or suspension compression during the tie down process.
But what about when you are moving down the road? Your car suspension is fixed due to the fact that you are tying down the frame.
What about the attach points and the necessary clearance of car models years apart?
There are 4 holes in the chassis (one on each corner) that are used for transporting the car - the pieces above go into those holes and your straps attach to those.
You are then directly attaching your straps to the chassis.
No risk of wheel damage or screwing up alignment settings.
Hooking to holes in the frame puts a lot of impulse force on the straps, constantly changing the pressure. When the vehicle suspension compresses, tension on the strap is relieved, and when the suspension rebounds, the force impulse on the strap can be quite great. Over time, that will have an effect on the strap and the frame.
Coming from the corvette world, frame hooks were used on prior generation corvettes - but the aluminum frame variants of the C6 came out, some damage was seen from strapping there. Now all Corvettes are shipped with over-the-wheel straps.
From a safety perspective:
Wheel Nets > Through The Wheel > Frame Hooks
03-03-2016, 09:26 AM
