Mahler9th

I replaced my tubing after about 2-3 years, but only because I wanted something longer. It was easy and cheap. I found the replacement tubing in a nearby plastics store.

Motive is a local company and I have met the owner. I am pretty sure that they sell spare parts for some or all of their products.

911 Rod

Timely post as I just bought one yesterday and will be going with the dry method.
What Psi is everyone using?
Above posts look like 5 to 15?

KOAN

I use 10-15 psi.

931guru

Dry, 10 psi. Ten years, no problem.

mj951

After my blowout over the weekend I picked up some additional fluid and re-bled the system. I stuck with a 'wet' technique since it has worked well for me in the past and I was doing a complete flush but I will try using the dry technique for the occasional bleed prior to an event. I usually pump and maintain about 5 psi in the canister, requires a few extra pumps throughout the process to maintain pressure but that helps me keep an eye on things as I go.

pmason

I'm another one that just uses it for pressure 10-15lbs. Also added an air line quick connector between the cap and bottle so I can easily take the cap off without twisting the tube all around.

911 Rod

Did the same last night for the first time plus I had someone on the pedal.
Very slick. Worked great.
I spent the extra $20 and bought the swivel cap and glad I did.

sig_a

Both wet method and dry method have their advantages. When I purge the complete system, I dump a full liter of fresh Valvoline type DOT 4 into the Motive jug. Then I pump to 20+ PSI to force-flush each wheel cylinder thoroughly until clean, bubble free, fluid is discharged to the catch can.

I believe higher pressure forces/pushes trapped air from high points in the brake line system better than 5 or 10 or 15 PSI.

When force-flush is complete, I add fresh new racing fluid to the M/C reservoir, and bleed each wheel cylinder at 20+ PSI.

If there are any weak points to the higher pressure flushing method, it's the Motive, not the brake system.

You can do the same higher pressure force-flush method using the dry method, but it's more work since the brake fluid M/C needs to be refilled many more times.

One thing to keep in mind when bleeding or flushing is never let the reservoir or M/C run dry.

Also, remember that either dry or wet method requires you to carefully unscrew the Motive jug cap slowly to release pressure gradually. And never use the Motive M/C reservoir cap to relieve pressure.

A large canvas drop cloth draped over the entire front trunk and front fenders is your friend.

I use the big ones from Harbor Freight.

Gofishracing

by the way- loose the Super Blue fluid-

911 Rod

Please explain.

mj951

Super Blue brake fluid recently became illegal in the US. There are also many better options available for quality brake fluid but with that said Super Blue and the equivalent ATE Type 200 gold fluid has worked fine for my use as a weekend / DE car with cooling ducts and Performance Friction pads.

I'm sure if I tried a quality Motul or Castoral fluid I wouldn't look back but to date have not tried either. I also haven't over cooked my brakes or experienced brake fade so for now i'm ok with gold fluid.

good hands

A friend turned me on to this. It has quick disconnect and pressure relief valve. My old Motive didn't have either.

http://www.bavauto.com/fland.asp?part=pb03