Hoosier Slick vs R6
#1
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As discussed in prior threads, GY is discontinuing a portion of their slick product line. This is forcing a move for many of us. I think I've narrowed it down to Hoosier Slicks and/or R6's. Price difference between the two in my sizes are only a couple hundred bucks per set.
Upside to the R6's is that they are cheaper and will fit in the existing body work. Downside is that they are not slicks and I would have to buy a couple 17" wheels.
Upside to slicks is that car is already setup for slicks and I have a couple sets of BBS wheels. Downside is that they are more expensive and some body work will be required.
I think I can get body work done for cost similar to purchasing a couple BBS wheels. So that leads me to my question. Does anyone have a feel for wear rate between Hoo slicks and R6's on a 2,300lb car?
Upside to the R6's is that they are cheaper and will fit in the existing body work. Downside is that they are not slicks and I would have to buy a couple 17" wheels.
Upside to slicks is that car is already setup for slicks and I have a couple sets of BBS wheels. Downside is that they are more expensive and some body work will be required.
I think I can get body work done for cost similar to purchasing a couple BBS wheels. So that leads me to my question. Does anyone have a feel for wear rate between Hoo slicks and R6's on a 2,300lb car?
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It is my opinion that at the pointy end, competetive heat cycles for each are the same.
That is to say perhaps 4 good ones out of the R6s for a fact (the first 2 of which are best) and 4 to 6 out of R100s. At this point the arguement in favor of the R6s is the next 8 to 10 cycles which can be used or training whereas the slicks may fall off too badly by then. The cost delta is always there.
I intend to try R100s in the spring and see if my opinion proves to be correct for my setup. If so, for the races I run next year, I may move to the "R" class - faster is 'mo fun.
That is to say perhaps 4 good ones out of the R6s for a fact (the first 2 of which are best) and 4 to 6 out of R100s. At this point the arguement in favor of the R6s is the next 8 to 10 cycles which can be used or training whereas the slicks may fall off too badly by then. The cost delta is always there.
I intend to try R100s in the spring and see if my opinion proves to be correct for my setup. If so, for the races I run next year, I may move to the "R" class - faster is 'mo fun.
#3
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It is my opinion that at the pointy end, competetive heat cycles for each are the same.
That is to say perhaps 4 good ones out of the R6s for a fact (the first 2 of which are best) and 4 to 6 out of R100s. At this point the arguement in favor of the R6s is the next 8 to 10 cycles which can be used or training whereas the slicks may fall off too badly by then. The cost delta is always there.
I intend to try R100s in the spring and see if my opinion proves to be correct for my setup. If so, for the races I run next year, I may move to the "R" class - faster is 'mo fun.
That is to say perhaps 4 good ones out of the R6s for a fact (the first 2 of which are best) and 4 to 6 out of R100s. At this point the arguement in favor of the R6s is the next 8 to 10 cycles which can be used or training whereas the slicks may fall off too badly by then. The cost delta is always there.
I intend to try R100s in the spring and see if my opinion proves to be correct for my setup. If so, for the races I run next year, I may move to the "R" class - faster is 'mo fun.
#4
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I am changing to Hoosier slicks from r6's myself. I spoke to Jeff over at Hoosier and Bob Woodman and both confirmed that my set up with -2.5 front and rear that I used with R6's would be fine for the slicks. I have always thought slicks needed more camber but can't argue with the manufacturer. Any thoughts out there ?
#5
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I've used a bunch of hoosier slicks and R6s and A6s. The life depends a lot on driver style and the type of car. I had a 2300 lb aircooled 911 with about 250 hp and huge tires and I would be 12-15 runs out of Hoosier A6s before they would cord but they were still about as fast as new. I found that on that car R6s cycled out and were miserable after about 8 runs but had plenty of tread left. On other cars that had more power I would burn up A6s in 3 or 4 sessions. R6s lasted a bit longer.
The slicks are magical on the first cycle, after that they fall off .5-1 sec on a 2 minute lap. Sad to say that the sticker Hoosiers (after the first cycle) are not any faster than 4 or 5 cycle takeoff michelin's or yokes I buy. Part of that may be setup though. I find they stay there for about 3 more runs, then fall off about another second. They are still fine as practice tires up until 12 runs or so if they don't sit too long in between uses. I don't think I've ever corded one of the hoosier slicks - they just turn into bricks.
The slicks are magical on the first cycle, after that they fall off .5-1 sec on a 2 minute lap. Sad to say that the sticker Hoosiers (after the first cycle) are not any faster than 4 or 5 cycle takeoff michelin's or yokes I buy. Part of that may be setup though. I find they stay there for about 3 more runs, then fall off about another second. They are still fine as practice tires up until 12 runs or so if they don't sit too long in between uses. I don't think I've ever corded one of the hoosier slicks - they just turn into bricks.
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Great info Clay. My car is 2,300lbs with 10.5's on front, 12's on the rear and 350 air cooled ponies so the A6's are out. It seems that the Michelins and Yokes are generally accepted as the best so I didn't expect the Hoo's to compare but did hope they would hold up longer.
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My $.02... If you try the Hoosier slicks use the R80's all around. I think the R100 are too stiff for a 2300lb car. On my 2650 lb. car(w/driver) I found they took 3 laps to come up to temp enough to drive hard while Yokes (not Patrons) are good after a lap. I finally threw the R100 rears away after 20+ HC's and they still had plenty of depth left.
If you're racing with NASA or POC I'd take a look at the Yokes with their generous contingency.....
If you're racing with NASA or POC I'd take a look at the Yokes with their generous contingency.....
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#8
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JR - It seems that in the 10" and 12" sizes that I need Hoosier only makes the R75 compound. Given that the R100's were a bad fit, was the car balanced enough to get a feel for how the R80's work (how much grip for how long)?
Wish Yoke was an option. Car is early 70's IROC setup for 16's and 17's.
Wish Yoke was an option. Car is early 70's IROC setup for 16's and 17's.
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I went through a set of Hoosier slicks (IIRC R80 front, R100 rear) and they were noticeably faster than R6s (GTS3/E class car). They were lighter and the car was faster out of corners because of that. Usable life was poor, in my experience. Maybe got 2 good HCs and got pretty slippery after that. I'd like to try A6s some time.
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I went through a set of Hoosier slicks (IIRC R80 front, R100 rear) and they were noticeably faster than R6s (GTS3/E class car). They were lighter and the car was faster out of corners because of that. Usable life was poor, in my experience. Maybe got 2 good HCs and got pretty slippery after that. I'd like to try A6s some time.
BTW, because the R100s are lighter , that doesnt make them any noticibly faster out of the corners. remembrer, rotating weight on a tire, is almost identical as to the effect, as if 2x the weight was in the car for the ride. so, this sub 1hp net gain advantage couldnt really be noticed as far as acceleration exiting out of a turn.
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JR - It seems that in the 10" and 12" sizes that I need Hoosier only makes the R75 compound. Given that the R100's were a bad fit, was the car balanced enough to get a feel for how the R80's work (how much grip for how long)?
Wish Yoke was an option. Car is early 70's IROC setup for 16's and 17's.
Wish Yoke was an option. Car is early 70's IROC setup for 16's and 17's.
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JR - It seems that in the 10" and 12" sizes that I need Hoosier only makes the R75 compound. Given that the R100's were a bad fit, was the car balanced enough to get a feel for how the R80's work (how much grip for how long)?
Wish Yoke was an option. Car is early 70's IROC setup for 16's and 17's.
Wish Yoke was an option. Car is early 70's IROC setup for 16's and 17's.
Oh, perhaps not in 17's sorry. 18", yes.
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[QUOTE=jrgordonsenior;10132661]My $.02... If you try the Hoosier slicks use the R80's all around. I think the R100 are too stiff for a 2300lb car. On my 2650 lb. car(w/driver) I found they took 3 laps to come up to temp enough to drive hard while Yokes (not Patrons) are good after a lap. I finally threw the R100 rears away after 20+ HC's and they still had plenty of depth left.
Agreed. I have been running R80's all the way around on my 2200lb car and am very happy. They have contributed to my GT3R lap time record at Summit point w/ PCA that still exists. I get about 13 to 15 heat cyles.
Agreed. I have been running R80's all the way around on my 2200lb car and am very happy. They have contributed to my GT3R lap time record at Summit point w/ PCA that still exists. I get about 13 to 15 heat cyles.
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[quote=Bull993tt;10135523]
Derek - Looks like you're running more aero and likely more power with the 3.8 but similar weight and likely suspension. How many golden HC's are you getting and what's the fall off been like? Are you cording or HC'ing out?
My $.02... If you try the Hoosier slicks use the R80's all around. I think the R100 are too stiff for a 2300lb car. On my 2650 lb. car(w/driver) I found they took 3 laps to come up to temp enough to drive hard while Yokes (not Patrons) are good after a lap. I finally threw the R100 rears away after 20+ HC's and they still had plenty of depth left.
Agreed. I have been running R80's all the way around on my 2200lb car and am very happy. They have contributed to my GT3R lap time record at Summit point w/ PCA that still exists. I get about 13 to 15 heat cyles.
Agreed. I have been running R80's all the way around on my 2200lb car and am very happy. They have contributed to my GT3R lap time record at Summit point w/ PCA that still exists. I get about 13 to 15 heat cyles.
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[quote=Eifeler;10135558]My rears will cord on the insides at about the 15 heat cycle mark where my fronts never cord. There is no doubt that the first heat cycle feels the best, but I still manage to lay down impressive lap times even at the 10 heat cyle mark. They start falling after 10 heat cylces.