944 Upgraded suspension. Now I want my camber back!
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After my early spindle broke at Sebring in June (causing loss of wheel, brakes and body damage), I decided to upgrade to 87 spindles and hubs. I also installed a set of Turbo S Konis. I can only get 1.8 degrees of camber on each side. I knew camber would be a problem, but thought the camber plates would take care of it.
I ran the car at Roebling this weekend and did pretty well, but definitely want my camber back.
What can I do to get at least another degree of front camber? Will going back to non-M030 Konis solve the problem? I have both early and late ones available. I guess I could slot the shock mounts, but not sure if there is a better way. Suspension is still early offset and I don't want to change it to late.
I ran the car at Roebling this weekend and did pretty well, but definitely want my camber back.
What can I do to get at least another degree of front camber? Will going back to non-M030 Konis solve the problem? I have both early and late ones available. I guess I could slot the shock mounts, but not sure if there is a better way. Suspension is still early offset and I don't want to change it to late.
#2
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So do you have camber plates?
Suspension still early offset?, but using 87 spindles?
Sounds like something is off other than getting -1.8 on stock bits. That I would expect. However with plates you should be good to -6 deg should you want to really max things out.
Suspension still early offset?, but using 87 spindles?
Sounds like something is off other than getting -1.8 on stock bits. That I would expect. However with plates you should be good to -6 deg should you want to really max things out.
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Actually its a pretty common upgrade due to the weak driver's side spindle on the early cars (speedo cable hole). I do have camber plates. The camber issue is known. I just need a solution. I'm not sure if its the shocks or the spindles that "cause" the problem.
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I get another good 1/2 degree of negative camber by having a second person tilt the wheel in with the car off the ground. I use a Fasttrax camber gauge with a bubble level. I measure it on a level surface, let's say it's -1.5 degrees and I want -2.25... that's a difference of -0.75 degrees. I'll then jack the car up, see what the gauge says at full droop - perhaps +2 degrees. Then adjust it to +1.25 degrees (difference of -0.75), and when I lower the car, it's spot on.
Anyhow, there is some slop in the system, so when you turn the eccentric to max neg camber, you'll find you can grab the top of the wheel and move it in and out a bit. Have someone pull the bottom out and push the top in while you tighten the bolts up. I can get -2.75 on my 88 turbo with stock components.
Anyhow, there is some slop in the system, so when you turn the eccentric to max neg camber, you'll find you can grab the top of the wheel and move it in and out a bit. Have someone pull the bottom out and push the top in while you tighten the bolts up. I can get -2.75 on my 88 turbo with stock components.
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Top hole already is slotted, and cant elongate it anymore as the eccentric already bottoms out against the stops on the shock body and flange. I wouldnt open up the bottom hole, since there are no stops, it will be prone to slipping or moving under load, throwing the camber alignment off.
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I'm thinking about elongating the bottom hole and tack welding a washer over it. As long as its tight, it shouldn't move. Still looking for a better way.
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I don't know the early cars well, but if I read it correctly, you just swapped spindles and struts, but not the lower control arms. Aren't the later ones longer? That would definately take away negative camber. Shoot, I about have to set my struts at full positive and adjsut with the plates I've got so much negative!
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That's correct. It was intentional, since the late spindles, hubs and bearings are stronger. Just need to fix the camber and I'm good to go. I have 2 sets of Fuchs and 3 sets of Cookie Cutters, so not at all interested in going late offset.
#10
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The 87+ are solid, but late offset.
If you have camber plates then getting camber should be easy. I run -3.5 and can get alot more if I want it. I have never seen a 944 that can get enough camber in front if they use plates. Stock you are limited to 1.8 to -2.2 depending on tolerances on your parts.
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I would have but I had 2 sets of 87 spindles and no 85.5/86 spindles. I am also pretty sure the later hubs have larger wheel bearings. I will just expand and reinforce the lower shock hole and see how it goes. I just need 1 more degree.
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John,
I am also running early arms and late spindles but do not have a problem getting enough camber (up to -3.5). However, this is less than what I could get with early spindles (-4.5 or so). Like Van said, get someone to help you push the top of the wheel in while you tighten the eccentric, then adjust with your camber plates.
I am also running early arms and late spindles but do not have a problem getting enough camber (up to -3.5). However, this is less than what I could get with early spindles (-4.5 or so). Like Van said, get someone to help you push the top of the wheel in while you tighten the eccentric, then adjust with your camber plates.