AIM Solo/Race Studio 2 Tutorial
#1
Race Car
Thread Starter
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Folks,
I was planning on getting a full data acquisition setup with dash but my race car has gone too far over budget for me to afford that right now. I still wanted a GPS-based lap timer though. The AIM Solo is perfect for that job and offers 3-axis +/- 6g accelerometers for analysis using Race Studio 2.
Anyway, are there any nice tutorials out there on how to best utilize Race Studio 2 using GPS and accelerometer data?
I looked around and didn't find anything very useful. Maybe I missed it.
Thanks,
Scott
I was planning on getting a full data acquisition setup with dash but my race car has gone too far over budget for me to afford that right now. I still wanted a GPS-based lap timer though. The AIM Solo is perfect for that job and offers 3-axis +/- 6g accelerometers for analysis using Race Studio 2.
Anyway, are there any nice tutorials out there on how to best utilize Race Studio 2 using GPS and accelerometer data?
I looked around and didn't find anything very useful. Maybe I missed it.
Thanks,
Scott
#2
Rennlist
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Join Date: Jun 2008
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Scott, can't wait until you buy something! <just a little tongue-in-cheek> ![Big Grin](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
Seriously, take a look at the rapidly expanding Vimeo Pro Channel for AiM Sports Training here: http://vimeo.com/aimsports
The best utilization of Race Studio 2 using GPS and accelerometer data is the same methodology you would use for any other DAQ software analysis.
My article in the May 2011 Grassroots Motorsports magazine entitled "Deciphering Data" and then expanded explanations Chris Brown's book would be the best way to start.
![Big Grin](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
Seriously, take a look at the rapidly expanding Vimeo Pro Channel for AiM Sports Training here: http://vimeo.com/aimsports
The best utilization of Race Studio 2 using GPS and accelerometer data is the same methodology you would use for any other DAQ software analysis.
My article in the May 2011 Grassroots Motorsports magazine entitled "Deciphering Data" and then expanded explanations Chris Brown's book would be the best way to start.
__________________
-Peter Krause
www.peterkrause.net
www.gofasternow.com
"Combining the Art and Science of Driving Fast!"
Specializing in Professional, Private Driver Performance Evaluation and Optimization
Consultation Available Remotely and at VIRginia International Raceway
-Peter Krause
www.peterkrause.net
www.gofasternow.com
"Combining the Art and Science of Driving Fast!"
Specializing in Professional, Private Driver Performance Evaluation and Optimization
Consultation Available Remotely and at VIRginia International Raceway
#3
Race Car
Thread Starter
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A. You have a car ready to put it in.
and:
B. You know what you can afford.
I bought an AIM Solo last week because my car is a couple of weeks from being done and I now know what I can afford.
Does that logic escape you? <just a little tongue-in-cheek>
![Big Grin](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
Scott
#5
Race Car
Thread Starter
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By the way, you were great to deal with in buying the AIM Solo unit!
Scott
#6
Race Car
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
...take a look at the rapidly expanding Vimeo Pro Channel for AiM Sports Training here: http://vimeo.com/aimsports
The best utilization of Race Studio 2 using GPS and accelerometer data is the same methodology you would use for any other DAQ software analysis.
My article in the May 2011 Grassroots Motorsports magazine entitled "Deciphering Data" and then expanded explanations Chris Brown's book would be the best way to start.
The best utilization of Race Studio 2 using GPS and accelerometer data is the same methodology you would use for any other DAQ software analysis.
My article in the May 2011 Grassroots Motorsports magazine entitled "Deciphering Data" and then expanded explanations Chris Brown's book would be the best way to start.
Thank you for the Vimeo link, the magazine article reference, and the book recommendation.
Scott
#7
Three Wheelin'
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Scott
Here is a link to an article written by Optimum G. I took a 3 day class on Motec and racing dynamics with Claude Rouelle who owns this company. I use this article a lot with drivers just getting into using data.
http://www.optimumg.com/OptimumGWebS...e_tech_tip.pdf
For the SOLO, you can use the GPS Long G as a substitute for a brake pressure sensor. I've attached an actual data point from a lap in a car that had a brake pressure sensor and Long G. For this comparison, I inverted the Long G trace (Makes the peak up instead of down, just to make it easier for the comparison, I show you how to create the math channel in RS 2 at the end).
Here is the chart. You can see that the GPS is not a perfect replacement for the sensor, however, it is a good learning tool. You can easily see that the brakes were re-applied (more pressure) during braking, which is not good, if this is a habit. You need to look at multiple laps to see if it is a habit or it was done because of traffic. You can also see that the GPS time to full pressure is longer than the actual sensor, so don't beat yourself up if it looks like you are too slow to full pressure. Hope this helps
Here is a link to an article written by Optimum G. I took a 3 day class on Motec and racing dynamics with Claude Rouelle who owns this company. I use this article a lot with drivers just getting into using data.
http://www.optimumg.com/OptimumGWebS...e_tech_tip.pdf
For the SOLO, you can use the GPS Long G as a substitute for a brake pressure sensor. I've attached an actual data point from a lap in a car that had a brake pressure sensor and Long G. For this comparison, I inverted the Long G trace (Makes the peak up instead of down, just to make it easier for the comparison, I show you how to create the math channel in RS 2 at the end).
Here is the chart. You can see that the GPS is not a perfect replacement for the sensor, however, it is a good learning tool. You can easily see that the brakes were re-applied (more pressure) during braking, which is not good, if this is a habit. You need to look at multiple laps to see if it is a habit or it was done because of traffic. You can also see that the GPS time to full pressure is longer than the actual sensor, so don't beat yourself up if it looks like you are too slow to full pressure. Hope this helps
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#8
Three Wheelin'
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Of course as you know I encourage "studying ahead," as this helps form a great basis in terms of technical theory, vocabulary and so forth. I even more strongly encourage you to revisit the Going Faster! video and Hank's book as you get ready to start track driving with your new car. And we can get you some basic video of Thunderhill in a similar car if you don't already have some.
I would encourage you most strongly to avoid driving by numbers at least for your first 2-3 events, using only video, with brake and WOT lights in your camera FOV, and of course first rate instructors to which you have access.
You will need to get a feel for the car's "transfer functions" as you climb the learning/experience curve. That is, what inputs from you create what outputs from the car, in various situations as you seek to go faster. Of course there will be three goals: (i) be able to comfortably and consistently use up to 100% of the car's (actually the tires) capability for minimum lap time (given conditions), (ii) gain experience manipulating the car in situations where extra variables (like traffic, dirt on the track, et cetera) enter into the equation, and (iii) gain situational awareness as a car driver on a track, which may be different from a bike rider on a track.
Studying things like cornering loads, brake pressure, brake-to-throttle and throttle-to-brake transition times, et cetera, et cetera, et cetera may all be distractions early on... like changing sway bars and wing angles.
So, as you know, my advice is just to use the thing as a fancy stop watch early on. i wouldn't even advocate worrying about sector times, as tempting as that may seem early on.
I would encourage you most strongly to avoid driving by numbers at least for your first 2-3 events, using only video, with brake and WOT lights in your camera FOV, and of course first rate instructors to which you have access.
You will need to get a feel for the car's "transfer functions" as you climb the learning/experience curve. That is, what inputs from you create what outputs from the car, in various situations as you seek to go faster. Of course there will be three goals: (i) be able to comfortably and consistently use up to 100% of the car's (actually the tires) capability for minimum lap time (given conditions), (ii) gain experience manipulating the car in situations where extra variables (like traffic, dirt on the track, et cetera) enter into the equation, and (iii) gain situational awareness as a car driver on a track, which may be different from a bike rider on a track.
Studying things like cornering loads, brake pressure, brake-to-throttle and throttle-to-brake transition times, et cetera, et cetera, et cetera may all be distractions early on... like changing sway bars and wing angles.
So, as you know, my advice is just to use the thing as a fancy stop watch early on. i wouldn't even advocate worrying about sector times, as tempting as that may seem early on.