Hoosiers do = Crack. What other drugs should I try?
07-17-2011, 07:27 PM
#16
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Now that I have a set of R1s ready to be mounted - how can I determine new vs. old compound; by markings perhaps?
Edit to add: This is the first I've read of a new compound since the change around 2006.
Edit to add: This is the first I've read of a new compound since the change around 2006.
07-17-2011, 11:49 PM
#17
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Not sure of the exact date but I think they started making the new compound toward the end of 2010. They don't seem any faster but they are much more forgiving when you step outside the envelope. BFG cautioned that they may not hold up as well in enduro's but they didn't grease up on me in my last 90 min race. Disclaimer: I wasn't wearing a cool shirt and thus overheating a bit so for the last half of the race I had backed off from 1 to 2 seconds per lap (at Sebring).
07-18-2011, 12:53 AM
#18
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Try some Dunlop slicks. If you really want to see what a difference a tire can make, buy some Dunlop rains for when its wet...they are like cheating.
07-18-2011, 09:58 AM
#19
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My wife and I just got back from 2 three day DE events sponsored by NER/NCR/UCR at Calabogie and LCMT. The events and weather were wonderful although I got a tank of bad gas and a MAF failure both of which I fixed with minimal loss of track time.
I decided to step away from the 'spec' tire for my SPBOX as I simply wanted to go faster! So, I went from running R888 to Hoosier R6.
To say I loved the Hoosiers would be an understatement. I found them to be very predictable with more precise feedback than my R888s. I even liked them in light rain.
I was able to shave 4-5 secs off at LCMT on the Hoosiers (1:57s) and 3 secs off at Calabogie (2:27). I love the grip on the R6s and the way they communicate to me.
The price is about 15% more than I was paying for 888s and frankly the heat cycles aren't that far off from each other as this season I've found the 888s to be fading faster than last year.
Has anyone else run these tires on their SPBOX? I went from 255 square r888 to 245/40/17 square on the R6.
I'm wondering if I should stick with the Hoosiers or try the BFG R1, Dunlop, Kumho 710, or the elusive Eagle RS.
BTW, the low point of the event was learning how to change a fuel filter on the 986 on a dirt surface. I think the Porsche engineers must have decided that the fuel filter should never be replaced on the 986 given that it is located at the car's center of gravity behind hydraulic and cooling lines.
I decided to step away from the 'spec' tire for my SPBOX as I simply wanted to go faster! So, I went from running R888 to Hoosier R6.
To say I loved the Hoosiers would be an understatement. I found them to be very predictable with more precise feedback than my R888s. I even liked them in light rain.
I was able to shave 4-5 secs off at LCMT on the Hoosiers (1:57s) and 3 secs off at Calabogie (2:27). I love the grip on the R6s and the way they communicate to me.
The price is about 15% more than I was paying for 888s and frankly the heat cycles aren't that far off from each other as this season I've found the 888s to be fading faster than last year.
Has anyone else run these tires on their SPBOX? I went from 255 square r888 to 245/40/17 square on the R6.
I'm wondering if I should stick with the Hoosiers or try the BFG R1, Dunlop, Kumho 710, or the elusive Eagle RS.
BTW, the low point of the event was learning how to change a fuel filter on the 986 on a dirt surface. I think the Porsche engineers must have decided that the fuel filter should never be replaced on the 986 given that it is located at the car's center of gravity behind hydraulic and cooling lines.
How did you get your MAF problem fixed?
07-19-2011, 01:08 PM
#21
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Funny story about the MAF. I still have the torx 20 hollow point screws in my MAF. At the last minute before leaving for Canada, I threw my security socket set into my tool box. I opened the box when I needed it and sorted through the 200 some odd bits putting them back into their respective slots and then found that the T20 hollow was the only one missing! After scratching my head for a while, I opened a drill bit set I had and found the elusive socket.
I'd like to thank Jerry Pellegrino who showed me some of the more interesting values that my Durametric scanner produces such as the FRA which showed that the car was running maximally rich. He thought it could be the MAF. I took this up with Kenny Conway and through him, Brad Roberts.
Inteestingly, i was NOT getting any MAF codes but rather was getting O2 sensor warnings which did not return after replacing the MAF. I guess computers are only so smart.
07-19-2011, 02:13 PM
#22
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07-19-2011, 03:03 PM
#23
