Driver Cooling Options
#91
Mr. Excitement
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Check the fluid temps at the in and out tubes to the shirt. Increasing the flow through the shirt will help if there is a high temp delta. If the temp delta is not high a larger pump might not increase driver cooling and in fact might reduce total BTU absorption capacity. The pump saps cooling capacity as the immersion pump motor is also cooled by the driver cooling fluid. In addition but to a much smaller extent in this aspect fluid flow itself makes heat.
#92
The Penguin King
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Update: F yeah we can uprate the bilge pump!!! My cooler has the Atwood Tsunami; going by the color codes, looks like the T500:
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...classNum=10624
For an extra $20, we can uprate to the T1200, going from 500gph to 1200gph! SCHWING!
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...classNum=10624
For an extra $20, we can uprate to the T1200, going from 500gph to 1200gph! SCHWING!
#93
GT3 Track Junkie
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I like the idea of developing a cool seat system, during the summer I often stick an ice pack on the seat, nothing better than having a cool bottom while driving. Many of the new trucks have cool seat options now. it's great.
Also discovered the stand 21 site with it's heat stress stuff.
http://www.stand21.fr/heatstress/heatstressc2c.htm
Also discovered the stand 21 site with it's heat stress stuff.
http://www.stand21.fr/heatstress/heatstressc2c.htm
#94
Rennlist Member
I like the idea of developing a cool seat system, during the summer I often stick an ice pack on the seat, nothing better than having a cool bottom while driving. Many of the new trucks have cool seat options now. it's great.
Also discovered the stand 21 site with it's heat stress stuff.
http://www.stand21.fr/heatstress/heatstressc2c.htm
Also discovered the stand 21 site with it's heat stress stuff.
http://www.stand21.fr/heatstress/heatstressc2c.htm
#95
Rennlist Member
At the WGI Enduro, after my fuel/pit stop, I flipped the Cool Shirt switch on to start pumping exiting the pits. Apparently one of the lines was plugged in enough to allow the water to flow but not enough to have it flow through the lines. The connection was at my crotch, the effect was very refreshing!
#97
driving with cool head
Along the lines of cool shirts what about cool helmets? I think Bell has a new system that uses a new Quick release vs the hose that I think just barb fits on? I have never seen how the generic vented helmet's hosing works. I also have not seen how the hose routes to the coolsuit tanks that have some kind of radiator sitting in the ice water, hot air goes in and cool comes out.
#98
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I got a live well bait timer and wired it up to my FAST system from Bass Pro Shops...conserves ice and allows you to adjust the temp. a bit....
#100
GT3 Track Junkie
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At the WGI Enduro, after my fuel/pit stop, I flipped the Cool Shirt switch on to start pumping exiting the pits. Apparently one of the lines was plugged in enough to allow the water to flow but not enough to have it flow through the lines. The connection was at my crotch, the effect was very refreshing!
#102
Mr. Excitement
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#103
Great topic, one that I've spent a lot of time trying to improve in my race cars. I'm not fat or out of shape, but I believe that driver cooling can be a significant advantage, and that in 95% of races the driver could benefit from more cooling. If it's too much, there's always a switch to turn it off.
I've built 2 home made cool suit setups, the latest with a 19 Qt. cooler. They help, but unless its a cold day, I'd like more cooling. Although our sessions aren't long (20-30 minutes), running several in a day adds up.
Vented seats work! I always use a seat insert that I make out of expanding foam & fiberglass (could be another 5 page topic). Recently I made one with four grooves down the center (running top to bottom) and glued on nomex covering. Even without any forced air, this made a big difference. I got this idea from an ALMS Corvette that I saw on the grid at Laguna Seca, where a crew member explained that the car had A/C, but it was only in the seat.
This year we built a new race car, and I went to great lengths to keep the OEM heater fan, switch, & most of the ducting in place. Now I have air blowing on my feet, a functional defroster, and soon will have forced air through the seat. All of this is controlled with the stock heat/AC dash switches. Should work great on the grid. I'm also thinking about putting dry ice inside the seat duct.
I've built 2 home made cool suit setups, the latest with a 19 Qt. cooler. They help, but unless its a cold day, I'd like more cooling. Although our sessions aren't long (20-30 minutes), running several in a day adds up.
Vented seats work! I always use a seat insert that I make out of expanding foam & fiberglass (could be another 5 page topic). Recently I made one with four grooves down the center (running top to bottom) and glued on nomex covering. Even without any forced air, this made a big difference. I got this idea from an ALMS Corvette that I saw on the grid at Laguna Seca, where a crew member explained that the car had A/C, but it was only in the seat.
This year we built a new race car, and I went to great lengths to keep the OEM heater fan, switch, & most of the ducting in place. Now I have air blowing on my feet, a functional defroster, and soon will have forced air through the seat. All of this is controlled with the stock heat/AC dash switches. Should work great on the grid. I'm also thinking about putting dry ice inside the seat duct.
#104
Addict
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Very good... yeah, I was thinking of doing the 800gph; for one, the 1200 is different plumbing etc...
I'm happy to see my new car doesn't seem to have such cooling concerns... though it's still running a touch hotter than I'd like... ah, well, teething pains of a new car...
I'm happy to see my new car doesn't seem to have such cooling concerns... though it's still running a touch hotter than I'd like... ah, well, teething pains of a new car...