Interior paint, stock or prepared classes?
#1
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Having Racer's Edge install a cage this week. Just a DE car for now. It is Alpine White. I am thinking about painting the cage, floor, and other bits the same color scheme as the interior (black and mushroom). Two reasons for this - one, I really don't want the interior white for fear of glare. Two, I am thinking that if I put some of the interior back in the car, it would look better if the paint somewhat matched it. Probably will make it semi-gloss.
So has anyone done anything other than the standard match to exterior? If you have, can you post some pictures? I'm just wondering if it is going to look like crap, or if it might look good.
So has anyone done anything other than the standard match to exterior? If you have, can you post some pictures? I'm just wondering if it is going to look like crap, or if it might look good.
#2
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I think painting the cage and interior the same color as the car looks the best and cleanest. The vast majority of Porsche factory Cup cars are base white with white interiors. There certainly is no glare problem. Maybe Chris M will post an interior pic of his white car/cage/interior. It looks great.
PCA finally allowed removing the interiors in stock class cars so there is no reason to replace the interior after the cage is finished.
PCA finally allowed removing the interiors in stock class cars so there is no reason to replace the interior after the cage is finished.
#3
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Thanks for pointing that out. Oh, and making me feel like a dumbass.
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#4
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car is silver
interior is painted cup car white.
no glare.
it can look very nice, you just have to spend lots of time or lots of money.
my int is painted just like exterior, not just flat paint, and can be waxed.
interior is painted cup car white.
no glare.
it can look very nice, you just have to spend lots of time or lots of money.
my int is painted just like exterior, not just flat paint, and can be waxed.
#5
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#6
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White is preferable, in my opinion because it makes assembly, trouble shooting and maintenance easier. I would also suggest that if you encounter a situation where the cockpit is clouded (fire) it's easier to make out your safety systems (fire suppression, door handles etc.). I have a stone gray interior and have been in the smoke, a dark interior makes those things disappear. There is no substitute for practicing your safety routine but it's just one more thing that makes sense. I repeat.......this is my opinion.
#7
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White is preferable, in my opinion because it makes assembly, trouble shooting and maintenance easier. I would also suggest that if you encounter a situation where the cockpit is clouded (fire) it's easier to make out your safety systems (fire suppression, door handles etc.). I have a stone gray interior and have been in the smoke, a dark interior makes those things disappear. There is no substitute for practicing your safety routine but it's just one more thing that makes sense. I repeat.......this is my opinion.
Thanks all for all of the feedback. Happy to hear glare is not a problem, though I do still worry about the trunk. But I am certainly leaning that way. Need to see how much paint I have left over from last Summer (when I pained it), though I'm sure I'll need at least another pint.
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#8
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Jack:
Looking at your photos has me motivated to get out and start working on mine. Still have the faux RSA carpets in my car. I agree, I like the idea of matching the exterior color.
Would also like to relocate the motronic and cut and lower the seat mounting points.
Looking at your photos has me motivated to get out and start working on mine. Still have the faux RSA carpets in my car. I agree, I like the idea of matching the exterior color.
Would also like to relocate the motronic and cut and lower the seat mounting points.
#9
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Do it! Here is another pic to inspire you. I too have considered the DME relocation and lowering the seat but it's a decent-sized job...
#10
Mr. Excitement
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Same color as outside is less work. I did the inside hammer finish gray and the outside white and wheel wells and underside black. Lot of masking work. Hammer finish goes on easy, hides all manner of poor final prep and blends well later after changes or rework is done.
#13
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Dear heavens and I thought my car had a lot of glue. Alright, what did you use to remove it? I have found that adhesive remover works pretty well, but that because of all of hte contours, it is much easier to loosen the glue than to actually remove it. Heat gun is helping a lot with the 100 pounds of seam sealer, lacquer thinner is helping as well, and I have a gallon of kerosene I'm about to try. Biggest issue is getting the stuff the bits of fiber and foam up that stayed on the sheet metal, rather than the rubber mat that has been removed.
#14
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An auto body shop owner told me they use the Automotive Paint Reducer. This 1 component of a 3 part paint system. Available at automotive paint suppliers. He said it is a powerful solvent that evaporates slowly compared to laquer thinner or MEK ect. Have fun.
BTW the interior removal is in the 2010 rules. Interior and headliner.
BTW the interior removal is in the 2010 rules. Interior and headliner.
#15
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