mdrums

Has anyone used these Girodisc Titanium or TiSpeed brake pad shims that you put on the back of your brake pads to help from heat getting to your calipers? When my Pagid Yellows are new I do not have much of a problem with heat transfer to my calipers but as the pad is worn down to around 60% I get enough heat to turn my red calipers to a dark maroon color and I can boil the Motul brake fluid sometimes.

Any suggestions if these will help me out as my pads get worn to control heat to the caliper?

http://www.girodisc.com/catalog/prod...d843bcadb664fe

http://tispeed.com/index.php?main_pa...products_id=69

adrial

Stainless Steel is a 50x better thermal insulator than Titanium

Titanium is a ~5x better thermal insulator than Alloy Steel (4130 or 4340).

Titanium is nice because it's light (and sounds fancy) ... but if you are trying to insulate temperature, Stainless Steel is the material of choice. What are the pistons made out of anyway? I know some cars they are ceramic ... haven't looked into the Porsche yet. But there is no better insulator than ceramic.

Your issue may be ducting or braking style...

Bill Verburg

The cup cars use zircon oxide inserts on the 6 piston calipers, all modern track pads have thermal barriers built in too

Matt Romanowski

Brake less.

Astroman

WOW! Great advice!!

It only took 3 posts to get the obligatory "brake less" response!! Gee I've never heard that one before...

mdrums

adrial, not 100% sure what the caliper pistons are made of on a 2009 Carrera S...I look at them when I swap my pads out for a track day and they are not ceramic.

I did the GT3 cooling ducts which looked no bigger than the stock ducts snapped to the lower arms and they did not help. My car is stock and used somewhat dailey on the street so my cooling duct options are very limited. The only the outer (facing the outwide of the wheel the part you see) is turning dark maroon, the inside facing the shocks is not turning color as bad..probably due to to cooling.

I do not have a problem with new pads but as the pads are worn down to 60 or so% or close to 50% and there is at least 1-2 more days left in them at Sebring the pads in this condition really transfer a lot of heat into the caliper. So I am trying to get a few more days from the pads with the Ti shims/heat shields.

Sebring is hard on brakes especially during 30 minute run times with some clubs I do. Speaking of breaking style I have worked on that the past year or so and think about it alot. I am breaking lighter in some corners now and trusting more and carrying more speed. However at Sebring there are 6 places where threshold braking happens...my ABS light will flicker and I feel abs in the pedal in at least 4 of these turns. I am hard on the brake with a good hard inital hit then modulate the brake in the brake zone and a few of the turn trail brake almost to the apex. I instruct for PCA and other groups and still have a lot to learn...my goal is to get Seth Thomas and Chris Hall hired to instruct me later this year.

Anyone else tried these Titanium pad shims out?

mdrums

125mph under the bridge into turn 7 at Sebring into a hairpin turn that most every car has to take at around 40mph...you have to either go slower around the carosel (not gonna happen) and threshold brake into turn 7. No option of braking less.

Matt Romanowski

More cooling is almost always the answer. The shims can delay the transfer, but will not completely stop the heat.

mdrums

Oh yeah totally agree it is a cooling issue...no doubt...but how do I get more air to the side of the caliper facing the wheel? I just probably need a bigger blast of air to the rear of the brakes but on a stock street driven 09 Carrera S I have no idea how to acomplish this.

Matt Romanowski

For fronts, these look right http://store.trgparts.com/brake-duct...ide-p7431.aspx

For the rears, if you are borderline now, it doesn't take a lot of air to make a big difference. Looks like you'll have to custom make something.

atr911

Few options to consider are using the Girodiscs themselves and getting the GT3 ducts. The original GT3 units are like $20 a set and are much better than stock. The ones linked above are bigger yet but if you street your car they'll drag everywhere and are REALLY expensive to replace.

If it's a slight issue, maybe the insulators will work, but I wouldn't expect them to be a miracle cure. I did modify my braking style and that made a huge difference, but without actually being in the car, me or anyone else on here can't advise you on that.

kurt M

Why only move the problem around? Heat is the issue. The shims will make the pads run hotter by removing a heat sink. Higher pad temps will reduce pad life and change braking fuction.

Add the shims to reduce the chance of boiling the fluid if you like but you must also go after the heat itself.

The "brake less" thing as some value. No, you can't just brake less but you can improve the methods. Two drivers, same car, same lap times not the same droving style one could roast the brakes the other make it work.

Matt Romanowski

Unpossible!!!!

Flying Finn

There's a lot of truth to that, although maybe Matt was slightly tongue in cheek, I don't know.

I've helped bunch of students with brake over heating issues by getting them braking harder, but shorter. They were braking loooong and not that hard which made their brakes run hotter, once they were comfortable enough to really stop on them and reduce the braking distance, over heating issues were a little more controlled also.

In the end though, I think Mike needs more cooling.

My suggestion is to remove the dust shields (or whatever they're called) and put some ducting from the front to the center of the brake disc.

Juan Lopez

My car is light but I also use tiny calipers (S calipers). With front mounted ducts with hub adapters I never have braking problems even during 4 hour races.

I would put my $ on good ducts before shims. If the ducts are not enough, I say then try the shims as added protection.