CWhaley

I agree Gary, it is all about that scheduled intervals... I have a set list I pick away at after every event. It makes no difference if its a DE, open track test / tune days or Race days. The car gets washed and cleaned stem to stern. Up on the lift, Wash the underside, wheels off, clean inner fenders, suspension, brake system ,etc. All the while checking hardware, fittings (my father tells me I am way to uptight about it ~ he was/is my chief mechanic/mentor... learned everything I know from him... still waiting for him too teach me everything he knows. :-) ), then the brakes get another look over (free ATE), flushed or bleed brakes (2x / year trans gets a good flushin/bleeding with local leeches), oil, filter and drop it back onto the floor. Finally, read it a good Sci-fi story before putting out the lights.

DanR

SRF for me and i need to bleed a lot less than I did before with ATE. Worth the $$ for me!

M758

I have used superblue for about 10 years now. I have NEVER done a complete fluid flush. Never once since I put the car together 10 year and over 100 races ago.

However I do bleed the brakes each morning at the track. I prefer a very stiff pedal with no movement before the brakes engage. So I achieve this by bleeing a little every day. It is no big deal for me as I also use that time to rotate the tires and check the underside/suspension for any issues. Now sicne I bleed a little every day I end up flushing the fluid every 5 events or so just based on how much fluid I remove. I have notices that I if don't bleed I still get good braking, but sharp feel is not there. So for me the bleeding and inspections are ideal.

TrackDays247.com

I'd bleed every 3-4 events max and don't use the car at a DE if sitting for more than a couple months.
Use Motul RBF600.

This is what I do on my car, my own personal advice here. YMMV

Bill Verburg

Not everyone need the same brake fluid, what you need is dependent on how stressed the brake system is

911 guys need all the help that they can get because their brakes are undersized and overworked, SRF is worth every penny to them. Others not so much

one indicator of system stress is boiling b/f, if your pedal gets soft during a run, and returns to normal or near normal after a chance to cool off then chances are good that you have boiled the fluid(and fried the seals) and it will be worth it to use the absolute best possible b/f w/ the highest possible boiling point

CWhaley

Very well put... Bill

TrackDays247.com

Exactly. Which is probably why I spend 20-30 minutes with each customer on the phone.

Has anyone experience with SRF and corrosion? I keep hearing of this.....

RonCT

Set and forget - that's the beauty of SRF. Flush in the spring, don't touch brake fluid again all season (about 12 days, Black / Red rungroup). The temperature chart says it all. 518 wet boiling point, which is why you can keep it for 6 months and it won't break down / lose performance.

I used ATE 200 in my first DE car as I was learning and soon thereafter realized I had to keep flushing every couple of months (say 3x per season) because it would break down (wet bp). So over the course of a season the "cheapo" ATE 200 (same as blue but without the nasty dye) ended up more expensive and wasn't as good dry or wet.

Real cups (not the Porsche N rated - they aren't the real deal - different rain channel design, different compound) are great in 18", but not in the wet or cold. RA1s are to me still the "wunder tire" - good at everything, wear like iron, etc.

TrackDays247.com

Exactly. False economy, it could be said.

Land Jet

Craig, I asked this question to my tech when I read this on one of the forums and he told me he has been using it in customer cars since it came out and has never seen any problems.

Alan G.

"Michelin Pilot Sport Cup how many DE track days will I get from them?"

Thanks for the help.[/QUOTE]

The MPSC are capable of up to 15 days, but that is with a perfect allignment and set up. It also depends on the car, and how hard they are pushed. They get harder with increasing heat cycles so they lose some grip, but still come back pretty well when they get heated up. Before they are hot, they can be real touchy.

Chances are they will wear out on the inside or outside first and bite the dust with plenty of center meat left. The problem is that the optimum setup is not the same for all tracks. Watch your wear!

1way2rock

Thank you for all of your help and sugestions.