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Old 11-17-2009, 12:16 AM
  #31  
kurt M
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Originally Posted by Sean F
Miller 211 autoset. will do 115 or 230. Nice feature being able to go between the two. Autoset is a waste of time. You still need to make manual adjustments to get it dialed in right.

Didn't include the gear, just handy to get it all in one place.

BTW, for those who suspected - the beer shot was staged.

It was fun time. The grinding discs you're referring to are called flap discs.
that is a great machine. I never figured out the auto set deal. 2 seconds looking inside the door and you had your initial settings. I got a small 120 V machine for working up inside large RTUs at work and all Miller had nyin the 140 was autoset.

Yes I have been using the disks for blending welds down and working corners and radius edges in metal I think of them as blending disks. A true blending wheel is a thick with a flat edge often run on a flex shaft. I like these puppies. and they are flap disks made by Walter

Last edited by kurt M; 07-26-2013 at 09:53 AM.
Old 11-18-2009, 10:29 AM
  #32  
FredC
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After grinding job.
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Old 11-18-2009, 01:46 PM
  #33  
Sean F
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you work fast
Old 11-18-2009, 02:02 PM
  #34  
FredC
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Originally Posted by Sean F
you work fast
because you work well.
Old 11-24-2009, 12:15 AM
  #35  
mark kibort
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Cory,
What does your top look like now with that overlap. can you sand or angle it down and then maybe a little bondo to smooth it out? Im going to do the same thing, and dont want to go through the work of pealing it the right way, with drilling the spot welds and pealing it all back.

did you use a jig saw to cut around the painter's tape? how long of a blade?

There is a lot of stuff in there and I want to get it all out. Then, i have to do it all again with the donor car top, as to get it to a skin, to that large of a square dimension, its going to be real tough.

Thanks,

Mk
Old 11-24-2009, 09:16 AM
  #36  
DanR
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Originally Posted by mark kibort
Cory,
What does your top look like now with that overlap. can you sand or angle it down and then maybe a little bondo to smooth it out? Im going to do the same thing, and dont want to go through the work of pealing it the right way, with drilling the spot welds and pealing it all back.

did you use a jig saw to cut around the painter's tape? how long of a blade?

There is a lot of stuff in there and I want to get it all out. Then, i have to do it all again with the donor car top, as to get it to a skin, to that large of a square dimension, its going to be real tough.

Thanks,

Mk
I think drilling the spot welds may be easier as you dont have to worry about cutting the donor roof to shape. More time up front but an easier and better overall job (that is the way I am going anyway)
Old 11-24-2009, 10:10 AM
  #37  
Veloce Raptor
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Originally Posted by FredC
because you work well.


You two really should get a room.






Professional Racing and Driving Coach
Old 11-24-2009, 12:05 PM
  #38  
FredC
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Originally Posted by Veloce Raptor
You two really should get a room.






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I would take a room alone with the girl in your avatar.
Old 11-24-2009, 12:22 PM
  #39  
Cory M
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Originally Posted by mark kibort
Cory,
What does your top look like now with that overlap. can you sand or angle it down and then maybe a little bondo to smooth it out? Im going to do the same thing, and dont want to go through the work of pealing it the right way, with drilling the spot welds and pealing it all back.

did you use a jig saw to cut around the painter's tape? how long of a blade?

There is a lot of stuff in there and I want to get it all out. Then, i have to do it all again with the donor car top, as to get it to a skin, to that large of a square dimension, its going to be real tough.

Thanks,

Mk
On my car the panel is just held on with dzus fasteners. I didn't do the work on the other roof but I don't think it would be too hard to bond the panel in place, smooth the edges, and fill. It would probably be easier to fill if the panel is bigger and goes further into the drip rails. A local guy makes the panels for 911's, they are very nice carbon fiber with a core to keep it stiff, if anyone wants to buy one let me know and I'll give you the contact info.

To make the cuts I just used an electric 4" grinder with a thin cut-off wheel and it worked fine. I have made similar cuts with a cheap pneumatic body saw from harbor freight, it works well too but blades don't last long.
Old 01-20-2010, 11:02 AM
  #40  
FredC
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Finished product.

http://s918.photobucket.com/albums/a...t=IMG_3038.jpg
Old 01-20-2010, 11:30 AM
  #41  
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Fred, looks great in the that pic. Got any shots of the interior?
Old 01-20-2010, 12:16 PM
  #42  
FredC
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Originally Posted by paradisenb
Fred, looks great in the that pic. Got any shots of the interior?
Will take some later and post. I am pleased with the result. Gotta to be worth 2 seconds at Limerock!
Old 01-20-2010, 12:51 PM
  #43  
Gary R.
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Originally Posted by FredC
Will take some later and post. I am pleased with the result. Gotta to be worth 2 seconds at Limerock!
As long as Limerock doesn't follow WGI's track improvements, can you believe they took away the grass? Really must **** you off Fred!!
Old 01-21-2010, 08:45 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by FredC
Finished product.
Damn, I'm impressed. Nice job.
Old 01-21-2010, 08:50 PM
  #45  
MUSSBERGER
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Originally Posted by Gary R.
As long as Limerock doesn't follow WGI's track improvements, can you believe they took away the grass? Really must **** you off Fred!!
B.Y.O.G.


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