What the Aiptek Camera really needs
#1
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What the Aiptek Camera really needs
Ran my new Aiptek HD camera last week at Watkins Glen. Good video, but here is what it really needs:
Power source hardwired to the car (this can be done using the so-called Frankencharger hack written up on this site; I have done this already)
A remote on/off button so you can power on/off with a dash-mounted switch
A remote record/stop recording button also on the dash (I have a remote that can turn recording on/off, but I am never sure whether it actually did so; the viewfinder is way too small in my rear view wide angle mirror to see whether the record icon is lit)
A better, and possibly remote, mic
Maybe the ability to run a remote powered lens(?)
I know this can all be done by better hackers than me; I'd be willing to pay someone to do it.(Cross posted by me from the TrackVision forum)
Power source hardwired to the car (this can be done using the so-called Frankencharger hack written up on this site; I have done this already)
A remote on/off button so you can power on/off with a dash-mounted switch
A remote record/stop recording button also on the dash (I have a remote that can turn recording on/off, but I am never sure whether it actually did so; the viewfinder is way too small in my rear view wide angle mirror to see whether the record icon is lit)
A better, and possibly remote, mic
Maybe the ability to run a remote powered lens(?)
I know this can all be done by better hackers than me; I'd be willing to pay someone to do it.(Cross posted by me from the TrackVision forum)
#3
The problem with a power source hardwired to the car is that you could lose your recording if you shut the car off before properly stopping the recording, or you have some electrical issue. It's possible to recover it if you're technical enough, but it's a pain and parts of your video may still be lost.
IMO, what it really needs are:
- A big bright red recording light. I currently have to move my rear view mirror down for a second so that I can see the camera's screen and see the recording timer counting. On a sunny day, I can barely tell. Should be an easy hack.
- Power on/off and start/stop recording buttons within reach of driver when buckled in. I usually just start the recording right before I head to grid, but I'm just wasting memory card space, extra transfer time, and battery life. I think I remember it coming with a remote, so that could be pretty do-able.
- A few seconds of reserve power (big capacitor?) that is used to automatically save the recording when it loses power. Due to the issue of vibrations and G-forces causing the battery to momentarily come disconnected and trash the recording, I just fold a piece of paper and stick it in the battery compartment to take up and extra room and hold the battery firmly in place... haven't had any problems since, but it would be a nice backup. I could wire up a few seconds of extra power, but triggering something to save the recording is an unknown right now.
- A stronger mounting point. They have a bit of flex in them from the start, and that can eventually get worse. Something cracked in mine after an unplanned flight (hit some steep curbing at Gateway doing 70-80 and got all 4 wheels well off the ground), and afterward the video was really wobbly. A few drops of super glue around the mounting hole solved the problem for a while, but I heard the glue crack when I mounted the camera this weekend, and sure enough I have wobbly video again (although not quite as bad). I think I'll disassemble it and see what I can do to make it more rigid...
IMO, what it really needs are:
- A big bright red recording light. I currently have to move my rear view mirror down for a second so that I can see the camera's screen and see the recording timer counting. On a sunny day, I can barely tell. Should be an easy hack.
- Power on/off and start/stop recording buttons within reach of driver when buckled in. I usually just start the recording right before I head to grid, but I'm just wasting memory card space, extra transfer time, and battery life. I think I remember it coming with a remote, so that could be pretty do-able.
- A few seconds of reserve power (big capacitor?) that is used to automatically save the recording when it loses power. Due to the issue of vibrations and G-forces causing the battery to momentarily come disconnected and trash the recording, I just fold a piece of paper and stick it in the battery compartment to take up and extra room and hold the battery firmly in place... haven't had any problems since, but it would be a nice backup. I could wire up a few seconds of extra power, but triggering something to save the recording is an unknown right now.
- A stronger mounting point. They have a bit of flex in them from the start, and that can eventually get worse. Something cracked in mine after an unplanned flight (hit some steep curbing at Gateway doing 70-80 and got all 4 wheels well off the ground), and afterward the video was really wobbly. A few drops of super glue around the mounting hole solved the problem for a while, but I heard the glue crack when I mounted the camera this weekend, and sure enough I have wobbly video again (although not quite as bad). I think I'll disassemble it and see what I can do to make it more rigid...
#4
I built the frankencharger which is working great. I also velcroed the remote to my dash top and only have to press the button on the remote to start and stop the camera. I can see the red "record" light in my rearview mirror to tell it is recording. I leave the power on all day long since it is powered from the 12v car system anyway. Doesn't hurt the camera. Turn it off at day's end. I completely agree on the need for remote mic. I've thought about trying to tackle that mod.
#5
- A stronger mounting point. They have a bit of flex in them from the start, and that can eventually get worse. Something cracked in mine after an unplanned flight (hit some steep curbing at Gateway doing 70-80 and got all 4 wheels well off the ground), and afterward the video was really wobbly. A few drops of super glue around the mounting hole solved the problem for a while, but I heard the glue crack when I mounted the camera this weekend, and sure enough I have wobbly video again (although not quite as bad). I think I'll disassemble it and see what I can do to make it more rigid...
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Long time no see.
Mine is an Aiptek 1080p; there is a ton of comments on this camera in the Racing & DE forum, so you can learn a lot.
Storage depends on which size card you buy; mine holds 5+ hours, I think. Way more than I need, but nice to have.
BTW, my original track car, the 1984 coupe, is for sale. A friend of mine bought it 3 years ago, but only did 1 day. For family reasons he now has to give it up.
I hear you are still doing well racing
Last edited by RickBetterley; 05-19-2009 at 04:19 PM. Reason: More info
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