Accusump Installation
05-01-2009, 02:38 PM
#46
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Location: Tallinn, Estonia
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Can you explain why you do it like that? To control oil level during gear change or ... ?
I just want to understand how to use accusump the "right" way.
05-01-2009, 03:17 PM
#47
Addict
Rennlist Member
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Yes, the oil level is set at the max mark.
Focus is to maintain oil pressure during long LH turns.
Never got any fantastic instructions; was purchased used. Just seemed about the right way to set it up.
Focus is to maintain oil pressure during long LH turns.
Never got any fantastic instructions; was purchased used. Just seemed about the right way to set it up.
07-13-2009, 09:55 PM
#48
Rennlist Member
OK, that sounds great. I have a fresh motor rebuild. Went to Mid Ohio. Went out for two practice sessions after quite a bit of dyno time.
The motor is an 88 NA motor with the Lindsey baffle kit and was completely gone through including new seals, mains and rod bearings.
I went out with a full load of oil in the enduro Friday. After about an hour and 5 minutes, including a fuel stop. No over reving, no mistakes in driving. No indications with oil pressure, the car spun a bearing.
After the car cooled down the oil showing on the dip stick was about 1/3 up. So, hot that would have been at the half mark or a little higher. Not enough to foam and not too low to starve.
So, I have the baffle kit, the motor had about 4 hours on it including dyno time. The motor was profesionally built. The crank was not cross drilled.
What made it blow up and what can I do to prevent it from blowing up again. I own an Accusump, but it was not on the car. I had planned to add it, but I am not sure now after this post.
Thanks
Ed
The motor is an 88 NA motor with the Lindsey baffle kit and was completely gone through including new seals, mains and rod bearings.
I went out with a full load of oil in the enduro Friday. After about an hour and 5 minutes, including a fuel stop. No over reving, no mistakes in driving. No indications with oil pressure, the car spun a bearing.
After the car cooled down the oil showing on the dip stick was about 1/3 up. So, hot that would have been at the half mark or a little higher. Not enough to foam and not too low to starve.
So, I have the baffle kit, the motor had about 4 hours on it including dyno time. The motor was profesionally built. The crank was not cross drilled.
What made it blow up and what can I do to prevent it from blowing up again. I own an Accusump, but it was not on the car. I had planned to add it, but I am not sure now after this post.
Thanks
Ed
The accusump will not fix the #2 oiling issue........the only way to eliminate the problem is to stop air pickup in the pan. Never let the oil pickup tube stop pulling oil and get uncovered. Use the Lindsey Baffle kit as stated before. I've run the same block and crank for years and changed the bearings after 40 hours with the baffle kit without any issues. You can drill the crank or add a sump all you want but if you starve the bearing of oil it will fail. Don't throw away good money on all the other stuff, just spend the $60 for the kit and put new bearings in as needed, you will never have a problem.
