Accusump Installation
#31
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The failure point is the oil pick-up in the pan. If the pick-up strainer becomes uncovered and pulls air it drives the bearing failure. Cross drilling the crank helps for overall oiling but will not eliminate the factors creating the bearing problem. Oil pan and pick-up modifications are required for use with a stock pan but if you want to eliminate the problem all together than you have to go to a dry sump system.
#32
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I've also seen a number of guys racing on regular oils and have far less abuse (sometimes just overheating) cause them to completely trash their bearings and crankshaft, if not send a rod through the side of the block. When 944-Spec started growing pretty good in my region, we had a lot of people blow motors, but those of us running good oil with plenty of zinc in it have had great results. No oil will make your engine invincible, but after having seen several race engines torn apart, I'm completely sold on having plenty of zinc in my oil.
#34
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Rather impressive results with the VR1, Weston! Makes me glad I run it!
daigo - not sure what part it was that Millege specced, sorry... might just have to suck it up and call him...
daigo - not sure what part it was that Millege specced, sorry... might just have to suck it up and call him...
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#35
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http://www.valvoline.com/racing/index.asp
I started using VR1 in my street 928. A lot of good testimonials and oil analysis out there, $3.89 per quart doesn't hurt either.
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#36
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good point on the diff between true Race oil and street oils...true race oils will have very little or no detergents in them...Redline or Joe Gibbs both have street and race-only oils available as well...
#37
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Thanks for pointing that out, H-P!! I'd've never guessed... been using just the VR-1... wondering if I oughtta use the "Conventional" racing oil instead? Have also used and been happy with Redline, but it's so F'in expensive... $100 oil change on an Audi, c'mon!!!
#38
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Anyone racing a flat tappet valve train without racing oil with high levels of ZDDP is just asking for trouble
$100 a race for Redline or other race oils is cheap compared to the thousand of dollars for a new engine.
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#39
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I certainly do have the VR1 for my flat/solid tappet motor... problem I've seen is when they split down the side at 8000rpm ![Wink](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
I was just wondering about the relative merits of the "Conventional Racing Oil" vs. VR1...
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I was just wondering about the relative merits of the "Conventional Racing Oil" vs. VR1...
#40
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Both Redline and VR1 will have 1200 to 1400 PPM of Zn and 1000ish PPM phos...at those levels you are fine for Porsche engines...The issue of synthetic vs. conventional can be decided by the oil temps your engine experiences...If you are consistently above 230ish degrees F you should definitely consider a high quality synthetic...I myself would use an ester based synthetic like Redline or Motul. Run a few races on your favorite brew and then send a 3 ounce sample in for testing.
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#43
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I use a manual valve, in reach of the driver. Oil level is set with valve shut before shutdown. My oil system capacity is now up to 2 gal (8 qts)!
Plus of course a large cooler, filter and hoses.
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#44
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When you close the valve how big is the oil pressure at that point and what is your precharge pressure?
#45
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I don't recall the precharge pressure, but the oil pressure when I close the valve will typically be around 1-2bar (warm, but not hot, idle).