Land Jet

Guys, I picked up a set of Clubsports off a 996TT from Sharkwerks with only 4000 miles on them, camberplates/monoballs and quick connects included, for $3500. The PSS9's were just not cutting it. I DE a 2002 996TT.
Now I need to learn how to use them. Initially I am going to use the settings that were used on the previous car, compression 3, rebound 4. Are there any articles, books, etc., that explain the theories and use of this system? Moton's website is not very helpful. Any input from current owners would be welcome. Recommendations for "while you are in there" are also welcome, since the system won't be installed for another week or so. Thanks in advance.

I did a search and didn't turn up much useful info.

Glen

Here is a good place to start for Yours.

http://www.motonsuspension.com/downl...ub%20Sport.pdf

Glen

You mentioned the bouncing around. You will want to significantly increase rebound damping to try to reign that in. If You had the 3 way then You could control the side to side corner roll/yaw well in Your car with the low speed. With the CS You will have to use sways to attempt to control that, You will find stiffer and stiffer to be Your friend. To really make it work You will want a stiffer adjustable sway at the very least in the rear of the car, ideally at both ends. Hope that helps.

FredC

Good deal you got there. Call Moton NA. They will take the time to explain the system to you. While on the phone with them, ask for a cannister pressure gauge, especially given that your kit is not new. Pressures change a lot over time.

As for set up, I ran 4 and 4 (middle) on all 4 corners, with rear sway set to 1 from soft and front sway 1 from hard. That was on a 2004 GT3 with MSPC (stock sways). A stiffer rear slowed me down.

That said, the TT will need different adjustment values if only because of AWD.

Good luck.

Veloce Raptor

Larry, this is great advice above. Also PM Larry Herman. He helped me set up mine, and knows his stuff regarding Motons.







Professional Racing and Driving Coach

va122

Ask for Lex, he can give you values off the top of his head that will rock your world. He did this for me then I put Stanton in the car and wouldn't let him out until he sorted them out. I was surprised to find out that Lex was almost spot on until Craig told me he gave the settings to lex in the first place.

You have the CS so follow Glen's advice (he knows all) I have the tripples so my values will be way different from yours. If you want to give it a go, set them at half way and experiment it's VERY frustrating.

93 FireHawk 968

Go to Moton directly for set-up suggestions.

Land Jet

I talked with Lex this morning. He said for my car with the spring set I have, to set 3/4 on the fronts, and 4/6 on the rears. The canisters should be, fronts 150lbs., rears 175lbs. After that he said i have to play with them and there is no easy answer.
I have in hand, front and rear adjustable sways that will be put on the same time as the shocks. Also got TRG drop links and probably rear toe links and control arms.
I will contact Larry Herman and get his feedback. Thanks for the other tips guys.

I am pumped. I think my car might handle better now.

Accelerator

I have an 02 turbo with the 3-ways and am still sorting things out. I found best anti-roll bar settings (H & R with TRG links) to be full soft front and full hard rear. Helped with the understeer in slower corners.
As with va122, my damper settings won't be of much help to you. Pay attention to Lex. What are your spring rates? What percent track and what percent street use?

BGB Motorsports

Since you have double adjustables, and no low speed adjustment, those ***** are all high speed adjustment; you'll be tuning the shocks for the bumps and the frequency of bumps. As someone mentioned earlier, if you had the 3rd ****, you could use it for situations where you might go to the sway bar to control droop or body roll, but that's only for 3-ways.

Run them where Lex said to run them which sounds almost like 50% stiff in the front and almost 75% stiff in the back. When starting out, most people (myself included), just run them in the middle and tune from there. If you have a lot of track time it's a great learning experience to max them out in either direction and try and feel what's going on. Don't try and feel one click or two. Even though they're very powerful and some people can notice a single click, do BIG adjustments. For the most part though, once you find a sweet spot where your car is happy and you are happy, you may not ever need to change them again unless you start changing other things and need to compensate. It's not unheard of for a car to go from race to race without ever changing those two *****, if you have it dialed in. Too much time gets spent fiddling with the *****. Unless you dial them in someplace with a lot of bumps that's harsh like Sebring or a street circuit, and then you head somewhere to like Miller or maybe Barber where it's super duper smooth, you shouldn't have to fiddle once they're dialed.

Land Jet

I have the 450/700 spring set. I drive 80% track, 20% street.

Accelerator

IMO that's way too light for serious tracking with Moton CS and the probable weight of your car. What is your grid weight? I do mine with nearly 1/2 tank BC the engine burns a lot of fuel. I can barely make 30 min on 1/2 tank. Grid for me is 3470.

KOAN

I have seen 600/800, 800/1000 and 1000/1200 spring set-ups on GT3s with Moton CS.

Accelerator

And what was your observation?

Our cars are considerably heavier than a GT3. Not making a challenge, just looking for information that may help the person with the new CS setup on a 996tt. I think he's too light (spring-wise.) You'll need to do some math----I forgot my conversion but I am at 20/26kg and not sure I have enough yet. I know I'm well past 1K/1.2K.

Land Jet

The spring set is a street car setup, and came with the package I bought. Lex said it will all work together. If I can't live with it, I'll buy different springs. Kind of don't want a buckboard ride since I still drive it on the street. It's got to be way better than what I have now.