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Old 01-09-2009, 02:55 PM
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kw_1055
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Default Pagid orange or yellow

I have been running track days on my OEM brake pads on my 06 997S but am thinking of changing to track pads.

I have read a lot of the comments here and like to ask a few more questions.

There were several comments about the Pagid orange. I understand that it generates more dust than the other ones. Other than cosmetic, is there a problem? Is the dust problem more severe than the stock pads? Can they be washed off easily?

Do you see more wear on the rotor with the different pads?

One shop told me to go with Sport Pads and leave them on full time,
his reason is that when you change pads, the layers that the pads leave on the rotor are different.
So the build up may cause a problem. What do you think?

I am still running PS2 tires. Will yellow pad be too much and may cause problem on the track?
Should I go with “lower” pads until I change to better tires later?

Also, I want to add more cooling to the brakes. Does the GT3 one fits the 997S?

Lots of questions, I know.
Old 01-09-2009, 03:20 PM
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APKhaos
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Pagid's Yellow is their prime race pad for touring cars these days. Having run them for a while, I like 'em a lot more than the Orange compund I was using previously. More intial bite, and more modulation possible. They don't appear to be any harder on rotors, and may even be a little easier on them.

For a street car like yours, Yellows are definitely overkill. Lots of track day guys really like the PF97s, and they may a good place to start. Like all performance pads, they don't work well [at all] when cold which makes them a little risky on the street. Jumping in you car late at night and needign an emergency stop is the wrong time to remember that you pads are cold!
Old 01-09-2009, 03:57 PM
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Patrick E
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Originally Posted by APKhaos
Having run them for a while, I like 'em a lot more than the Orange compound I was using previously. More initial bite, and more modulation possible. They don't appear to be any harder on rotors, and may even be a little easier on them.
+1. I also seem to get better wear out of them then the orange but that could just be my imagination.
Old 01-09-2009, 04:04 PM
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todinlaw
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I have been running the Yellow 29's on my car and love them for the track. I also agree you can get by with them on the street but they do make noise (like a truck) and not real good on cold stops, I cannot comment on the PF 97's but have hear allot of good. On the comment about concern of pad build up on the rotors I would not worry about that, when you swap pads and re bed the pads you are starting over no issues really.
I do not know if you have the quick change style calipers, on my 3 they are quick change up front but you have to pull the caliper off in the back. If I had quick change all the way around I would go to a street pad street/track pad track. just because I could change them so easy. if not just pic your compromise.
Old 01-09-2009, 04:11 PM
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Originally Posted by kw_1055
One shop told me to go with Sport Pads and leave them on full time,
I do not believe this is good advice if they mean Porsche OEM Sport Pads. If they meant leave your track pads on all the time, that's what many folks do out of sheer laziness (those that DD and track that is). But if you do swap out every event, I've heard that you should use a little brake cleaner on the calipers and wipe down the rotors everytime you change pads to keep the dust from caking and clogging.

Also, I want to add more cooling to the brakes. Does the GT3 one fits the 997S?
For my car, I got the GT3 cooling ducts for ~$30 bucks. This will fit your car, and they snap on. Easy swap for anyone that can turn on a light switch. You could get the super cooler Euro GT2 ones, but they'll run $250.

Oh, brake dust comes off at the 50 cent car wash with the sprayer (well most of the time )

-td
Old 01-09-2009, 04:38 PM
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Bob Rouleau

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Pagid Yellows, the RS-19 and the newer RS-29 are the latest ceramic technology pads. They are superior to the old style RS 4 orange.

The yellows are more rotor friendly and usable on the street. Some say they squeal, but on my 996GT3 and my 997 RS I have no squeal on or off the track unless I let the holes in the rotor get full of pad crud. They are fin on the street at temperatures of 50F on up. Less than that and the first stop from full cold will be longer than normal.

Best,
Old 01-09-2009, 04:50 PM
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Veloce Raptor
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For the reasons above, many folks replace the holy rotors (heh heh) with slotted ones.
Old 01-09-2009, 05:00 PM
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APKhaos
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Originally Posted by Patrick E
+1. I also seem to get better wear out of them then the orange but that could just be my imagination.
Its not your imagination, they definitely wear at a lower rate than the Orange. They had better last a bit longer at close to 30% higher price, right?
Old 01-09-2009, 05:20 PM
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DM993tt
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yellow.
Old 01-09-2009, 08:59 PM
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jrgordonsenior
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Originally Posted by DM993tt
yellow.
That's one good looking TT....
Old 01-09-2009, 09:55 PM
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TRAKCAR
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I took my R29's out today, after 6 track days they were about 30 - 50% all around, but pretty cracked.
A piece of about 1" by 1" fell out when I pullled the pads out. Does that mean they overheated?

I did cook the brake fluid SRF the first day out.. Those wjo have seen my video's know I am Fast in, slow out, so I am real hard on the brakes, as is Sebring.. Is there a pad that can take more abuse, or should I just learn to drive a 911?

VR, nice new avatar, but Purdee is still my #1.

Peter
Old 01-09-2009, 10:10 PM
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todinlaw
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If you cooked SRF then i would say real safe to say overheating. I get some cracking but never lost the material on the pad. If that is the case you better be pulling and checking ever other event or give that pedal a rest going in. Are you going through a bedding process when the pads are new, sort of a controlled first heat up, vs. going out and track them out of the box, that might help too.
Old 01-09-2009, 10:31 PM
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TRAKCAR
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Thanks Frank.

It was real hot in September at Sebring..
New SRF, new pads, braided steel lines, so it must have been me, I ran out of pedal in the first day, not the first session, I think I bedded them in OK.

After the first day, I started brake a bit less and it never came back..

I run Toyo's no slicks or even Hoosiers, so not that much grip either.

This was my first session:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CLOD3uKTVGk

The next morning when it was warmer the pedal went very soft..

Working on the car will never be my hobby, so living on the edge, I suppose ;-) Or maybe I will learn to go slow in and fast out.. :-)

I will be practicing next weekend at Sebring again, trying to get on the gas sooner.
Old 01-09-2009, 11:36 PM
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mdrums
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Originally Posted by TRAKCAR
I took my R29's out today, after 6 track days they were about 30 - 50% all around, but pretty cracked.
A piece of about 1" by 1" fell out when I pullled the pads out. Does that mean they overheated?

I did cook the brake fluid SRF the first day out.. Those wjo have seen my video's know I am Fast in, slow out, so I am real hard on the brakes, as is Sebring.. Is there a pad that can take more abuse, or should I just learn to drive a 911?

VR, nice new avatar, but Purdee is still my #1.

Peter

TrakCar, If you are cooking SRF you need to lighten up alot on the braking. A Porsche especially a GT3 like yours has more braking power than you need on every single lap so leave your self a little extra and do not use max brake power on every hard braking corner like 3/7/10/13/15.

I have always read and been taught slow in fast out in a 911. But there is trick because you are not actually going all that slow as the car can go through the corners a lot faster than you or I might expect as long as we set up for the corner correctly.

I cooked Motul 600 and turned the red calipers on my 2007 C2S to a dark purpleish maroon and the white Porsche lettering on the caliper turned brown then black all in 3 session last summer at Sebring at a Chin event. I was absolutly threshold braking on 3/7/10/13/15 and going into 17! I was the late brake king....Tom Kerr took are ride with me and said I could teach THE class on threshold braking. I quicky learned that might sound cool but is not the fast and safe way around the track. Anway, it was too much, my lap times where not faster so I got some tips from a few Porsche racers and instructors at PSDS and Bob Brooks at the track. I lightend up a little went through the corner a little faster and acellerated out of the corner a little earlier and droped 3 sec. off my time. I was back to driving a lot more relaxed and was going faster.

KW1055, I have used both Pagid Yellows and Performance Friction PF97. They both work great but a little different and it would be something you would not notice right now at the level you are at. 1 cool thing abotu the PF97's are there is zero pad bed in. You put them in and go. The Pagids need to be bedded in properly and it is hard to do on the street because you really need to break the speed laws to do it correctly and anyone following you will think you are drunk or a nut case. You can drive on the street with any of these race pads in but your car will not brake as well as the stock pads because with these race pads they need to be hot, hotter than you get them on regualr or even spirited street driving to work correctly. I swap my stock pads out woth race pads and drive to my events. Swapping out pads in your car is extremely easy to do, and you can do this when you put on your track wheels. Also the race pads along with your street tires is not a good combo for the track. The race pads when hot will out grip you PS2's...likewise R-comp sticky tires will have more traction than what stock pads have when hot. the proper R-comp sticky tires and race pads are a system and need to go together.

So with all that said if I was you and still learning I'd stay with the street tires and stock pads until you go solo. Before your next DE, have the old fluid flushed out and put in Motul600. It has a higher boil point and with stock pads your brake pedal will stay firm longer.
Old 01-09-2009, 11:45 PM
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TRAKCAR
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I have always read and been taught slow in fast out in a 911. But there is trick because you are not actually going all that slow as the car can go through the corners a lot faster than you or I might expect as long as we set up for the corner correctly.
I know, I know, you are 100% right, I am learning to trust that the *** will actually stick at those speeds and that much trottle.

I cooked Motul 600 and turned the red calipers on my 2007 C2S to a dark purpleish maroon
I could teach THE class on threshold braking. I quicky learned that might sound cool but is not the fast and safe way around the track.
+1000

I know what I am doing wrong, my calipers are discoloring, no longer bright red, more like dark red...

I am starting to learn the car and I think I can do a 2:27 next weekend, that is my goal anyway.
2 seconds better than the first time out should be possible, only 0.15s better per corner ;-)

I know what I should do, but it is like musle memory, I can't help myself coming out of a Mustang with 249HP to the wheels and doing 2:34's, where it won't turn in unless I am at treshhold braking when I toss it in.

I am finding out that it is harder to unlearn than to learn ;-)

Mike, you could not have said it better! Now I just go need to do it.
I hope to get a coach sometime in March or April.


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