Considering the sale of my D-Class 911 SC
#32
Burning Brakes
OK, now that Fred's back to racing and you guys can un-knot your panties, I have a D-class question: Club rules state that we can run rims 1" wider than O.E., and no restriction on diameter. My car came with 6/7, so I got two sets of 7/8 for the track. However, I have looked at several D-class cars at the track and they are running 8/9 with 245/275. How is that legal? Was there a special-order 7/8 rim setup available when new?
Also, how much "Polish bodywork" is required to keep them from rubbing?
Thanks in advance.
Also, how much "Polish bodywork" is required to keep them from rubbing?
Thanks in advance.
#33
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Minnetonka, MN
Posts: 483
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Bob Johnson in Minnesota, the mechanic/racer who built the "Teddy Bear" car and various other very fast G (now D) cars, researched this in the early 90's. He found that the Weissach edition of the 911SC had come with 8's. The Teddy Bear car's log book contained a copy of the window sticker from one of Bob's customer cars, a Weissach model, just in case the scrut looking at the car had any questions. 9's are indeed legal for an SC.
#35
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: NC
Posts: 868
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
8/9's are the way to go (I went with 17's) but it may not be as simple as ordering the wheels and bolting them on. I've had message my rear fenders considerably and move oil lines on the right side. For me the 245's made more of a handling difference than the 275's. If you run into the rear fitment problems, 255's maybe just as good and save you a lot of fitment issues. My .02
#37
Drifting
Thread Starter
OK, now that Fred's back to racing and you guys can un-knot your panties, I have a D-class question: Club rules state that we can run rims 1" wider than O.E., and no restriction on diameter. My car came with 6/7, so I got two sets of 7/8 for the track. However, I have looked at several D-class cars at the track and they are running 8/9 with 245/275. How is that legal? Was there a special-order 7/8 rim setup available when new?
Also, how much "Polish bodywork" is required to keep them from rubbing?
Thanks in advance.
Also, how much "Polish bodywork" is required to keep them from rubbing?
Thanks in advance.
245 on 8/17 front, 275 on 9/17 rear. Play with camber as much as you can.... Should fit if you are running Hoosiers (not sure about other manufacturers) and don't run your car too low. No fender rolling.
You should also consider going to ultra light 8/15 and 9/15 wheels. Seems to be increasingly popular and from what I can tell, that set seems to confer an advantage out of slow corners. I know Cory Jump at planet911 could help you with that if you are interested.
Last edited by FredC; 01-21-2009 at 08:06 PM.
#39
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: NC
Posts: 868
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
They just needed to be aligned closer to the inside wheel well.
My car was ok on one side but rubbed the fender on the other side. I am trying to run the car as low as possible. So rolling fenders was required to run the car low and fit 275's Hoosiers/BFG's. YMMV
I completely agree that the 8/9's are likely more important than the 17/18's.
245 on 8/17 front, 275 on 9/17 rear. Play with camber as much as you can.... Should fit if you are running Hoosiers (not sure about other manufacturers) and don't run your car too low. No fender rolling.
You should also consider going to ultra light 8/15 and 9/15 wheels. Seems to be increasingly popular and from what I can tell, that set seems to confer an advantage out of slow corners. I know Cory Jump at planet911 could help you with that if you are interested.
You should also consider going to ultra light 8/15 and 9/15 wheels. Seems to be increasingly popular and from what I can tell, that set seems to confer an advantage out of slow corners. I know Cory Jump at planet911 could help you with that if you are interested.
I completely agree that the 8/9's are likely more important than the 17/18's.
#40
My car was ok on one side but rubbed the fender on the other side. I am trying to run the car as low as possible. So rolling fenders was required to run the car low and fit 275's Hoosiers/BFG's. YMMV
#42
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: NC
Posts: 868
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
This was for Hoosiers but like you say the BFG's just make it worse. Hoosiers will give you a little more room but I was still scuffing my oil lines and fender with them.
#43
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: NC
Posts: 868
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
As a low time driver/racer (5 years) I am going to stick with one tire mfg. The difference between the two is enough so it was tough for me to change between the two different compounds and be completely confident. For me the BFG's are better in warm ambient temps (they didn't seem to get so greasy) while Hoosiers are better in February. I could go with either but both just made it more difficult to be consistent.
#45
Rennlist Member
I have had pretty good luck with the BFG R1's but only raced on them in warm weather. Like Keith, I thought they did not get as greasy as the R6's. Tire Rack says that R1's are supposed to be slower than the Hoosiers, but my lap times were no different with the BFG's and even allowed me to keep up with two 964 US cups (on Hoosiers, IIRC) when they were still in the old D class.