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Considering the sale of my D-Class 911 SC

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Old 01-21-2009, 02:19 PM
  #31  
chrisp
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welcome back!!
Old 01-21-2009, 04:31 PM
  #32  
dbryant61
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OK, now that Fred's back to racing and you guys can un-knot your panties, I have a D-class question: Club rules state that we can run rims 1" wider than O.E., and no restriction on diameter. My car came with 6/7, so I got two sets of 7/8 for the track. However, I have looked at several D-class cars at the track and they are running 8/9 with 245/275. How is that legal? Was there a special-order 7/8 rim setup available when new?

Also, how much "Polish bodywork" is required to keep them from rubbing?

Thanks in advance.
Old 01-21-2009, 04:41 PM
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Steward B.
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Bob Johnson in Minnesota, the mechanic/racer who built the "Teddy Bear" car and various other very fast G (now D) cars, researched this in the early 90's. He found that the Weissach edition of the 911SC had come with 8's. The Teddy Bear car's log book contained a copy of the window sticker from one of Bob's customer cars, a Weissach model, just in case the scrut looking at the car had any questions. 9's are indeed legal for an SC.
Old 01-21-2009, 04:47 PM
  #34  
dbryant61
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Thanks Steward B. Gotta sell the 7/8s and buy 8/9s. Is CCW the best way to go?
Old 01-21-2009, 05:03 PM
  #35  
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8/9's are the way to go (I went with 17's) but it may not be as simple as ordering the wheels and bolting them on. I've had message my rear fenders considerably and move oil lines on the right side. For me the 245's made more of a handling difference than the 275's. If you run into the rear fitment problems, 255's maybe just as good and save you a lot of fitment issues. My .02
Old 01-21-2009, 05:13 PM
  #36  
Chris M.
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Originally Posted by KRA993tt
I've had message my rear fenders considerably and move oil lines on the right side.

To where did you move them?
Old 01-21-2009, 05:45 PM
  #37  
FredC
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Originally Posted by dbryant61
OK, now that Fred's back to racing and you guys can un-knot your panties, I have a D-class question: Club rules state that we can run rims 1" wider than O.E., and no restriction on diameter. My car came with 6/7, so I got two sets of 7/8 for the track. However, I have looked at several D-class cars at the track and they are running 8/9 with 245/275. How is that legal? Was there a special-order 7/8 rim setup available when new?

Also, how much "Polish bodywork" is required to keep them from rubbing?

Thanks in advance.

245 on 8/17 front, 275 on 9/17 rear. Play with camber as much as you can.... Should fit if you are running Hoosiers (not sure about other manufacturers) and don't run your car too low. No fender rolling.

You should also consider going to ultra light 8/15 and 9/15 wheels. Seems to be increasingly popular and from what I can tell, that set seems to confer an advantage out of slow corners. I know Cory Jump at planet911 could help you with that if you are interested.

Last edited by FredC; 01-21-2009 at 08:06 PM.
Old 01-21-2009, 09:21 PM
  #38  
dbryant61
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Thanks Fred.
Old 01-22-2009, 10:13 AM
  #39  
KRA993tt
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Originally Posted by Chris M.
To where did you move them?
They just needed to be aligned closer to the inside wheel well.

245 on 8/17 front, 275 on 9/17 rear. Play with camber as much as you can.... Should fit if you are running Hoosiers (not sure about other manufacturers) and don't run your car too low. No fender rolling.

You should also consider going to ultra light 8/15 and 9/15 wheels. Seems to be increasingly popular and from what I can tell, that set seems to confer an advantage out of slow corners. I know Cory Jump at planet911 could help you with that if you are interested.
My car was ok on one side but rubbed the fender on the other side. I am trying to run the car as low as possible. So rolling fenders was required to run the car low and fit 275's Hoosiers/BFG's. YMMV

I completely agree that the 8/9's are likely more important than the 17/18's.
Old 01-22-2009, 10:46 AM
  #40  
chrisp
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My car was ok on one side but rubbed the fender on the other side. I am trying to run the car as low as possible. So rolling fenders was required to run the car low and fit 275's Hoosiers/BFG's. YMMV
Was this for both the BFG and the Hoosier? I ask because the BFG's are bigger (diameter) than the Hoosier's and although I've never used Hoosier's I did all of the same mod's as the guys who do and the BFG's rub on my car. At WGI I could get away with a little more grinding and work but then when I ran at LRP compression through the downhill pushed the tire deeper into the wheel well and burned a line through the paint.
Old 01-22-2009, 10:54 AM
  #41  
LVDell
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I run the 245/275 combo on 8/9x17 on my RSA in the Hoosier R6. Is the BFG R1 worth the $100 discount over the Hoosier R6?
Old 01-22-2009, 11:00 AM
  #42  
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This was for Hoosiers but like you say the BFG's just make it worse. Hoosiers will give you a little more room but I was still scuffing my oil lines and fender with them.
Old 01-22-2009, 11:15 AM
  #43  
KRA993tt
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As a low time driver/racer (5 years) I am going to stick with one tire mfg. The difference between the two is enough so it was tough for me to change between the two different compounds and be completely confident. For me the BFG's are better in warm ambient temps (they didn't seem to get so greasy) while Hoosiers are better in February. I could go with either but both just made it more difficult to be consistent.
Old 01-22-2009, 11:18 AM
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LVDell
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Very interesting take Keith. Thanks for the input!
Old 01-22-2009, 12:13 PM
  #45  
Mark in Baltimore
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I have had pretty good luck with the BFG R1's but only raced on them in warm weather. Like Keith, I thought they did not get as greasy as the R6's. Tire Rack says that R1's are supposed to be slower than the Hoosiers, but my lap times were no different with the BFG's and even allowed me to keep up with two 964 US cups (on Hoosiers, IIRC) when they were still in the old D class.


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