944S2 track gurus: Lend me your knowledge >>
#1
Nordschleife Master
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I am presently working on prepping my "new-to-me" 1989 944S2. Presently the car is a fine example with 147K on the clock.
Maintenance has been kept up very well during the car's lifetime by the previous 3 owners. Only VERY minor issues seem to be the gremlins. Example - I found a spot of rust on the driver's side front fender at the bottom of the wheel well. Minor inconvenience in the big picture.
With that said, I am now preparing my budget for the motor. Some have said to simply replace the cam chain, spark plugs, oil and new rod bearing and go. Other have said I should consider going through the motor with a possible refreshing of the head and replace rods & pistons.
I have to admit, I like the idea of freeing up some weight in there with lighter forged rods and pistons. If I wanted to go crazy and knife-edge the crank and drill oiling journals...I suppose that could be done too...
What kind of pricing should I expect for this kind of rebuild? If I were to only do, new pistons, rods, and refresh the head, would I need to pull the motor.
Looking for enlightenment. Any input would be very much appreciated.
TIA,
C.
Maintenance has been kept up very well during the car's lifetime by the previous 3 owners. Only VERY minor issues seem to be the gremlins. Example - I found a spot of rust on the driver's side front fender at the bottom of the wheel well. Minor inconvenience in the big picture.
With that said, I am now preparing my budget for the motor. Some have said to simply replace the cam chain, spark plugs, oil and new rod bearing and go. Other have said I should consider going through the motor with a possible refreshing of the head and replace rods & pistons.
I have to admit, I like the idea of freeing up some weight in there with lighter forged rods and pistons. If I wanted to go crazy and knife-edge the crank and drill oiling journals...I suppose that could be done too...
What kind of pricing should I expect for this kind of rebuild? If I were to only do, new pistons, rods, and refresh the head, would I need to pull the motor.
Looking for enlightenment. Any input would be very much appreciated.
TIA,
C.
#2
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Not a guru, but I have experinece in converting a street car into a PCA stock class race car. Is this going to be a DE only car? Do you plan to race it? Where do you plan to race? Those are the determining factor on what you can do to the engine and suspension.
For example, if you want to race in PCA stock class, then none of the engine mods you mentioned are "legal." If you want to run in NASA GTS, then you can do all of that. There is also ITR in SCCA which allows modes to the engine, but I do not remeber the extend, but does not allow any suspension changes.
For longavity, you should do the rod bearings and more importantly rod bolts. IMHO, the 3.0 L engines do not have the same oil starvation issues than the earlier engines.
For example, if you want to race in PCA stock class, then none of the engine mods you mentioned are "legal." If you want to run in NASA GTS, then you can do all of that. There is also ITR in SCCA which allows modes to the engine, but I do not remeber the extend, but does not allow any suspension changes.
For longavity, you should do the rod bearings and more importantly rod bolts. IMHO, the 3.0 L engines do not have the same oil starvation issues than the earlier engines.
#3
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My suggestion would be to call Karl at the Racers Edge. He would be able to answer each and every question you have regarding the motor in the S2. If you plan to run a stock class, I would do a leak down and compression test. If those look good, change the timing belt, put in new rod bearings, and hit the track..
Don
Don
#4
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One other thing.. I would suggest having your oil pick-up tube replaced with new or welded up with a reinforcement.
#5
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+1 on all that has been said above.
The #2 rod bearing does have an oil starvation issue on left hand turns I believe and it is crutial to keep the crankcase full to over full at all times on the track.
Karl Poetl has probably forgotten more than anyone else knows.
The #2 rod bearing does have an oil starvation issue on left hand turns I believe and it is crutial to keep the crankcase full to over full at all times on the track.
Karl Poetl has probably forgotten more than anyone else knows.
#6
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Well about the engine rebuild stuff, if doing new pistons and rods....it could be done with the engine in the car, but you are much better off pulling the engine. The crank shaft needs to be removed and i cannot imagine holding one of those over my head trying to reinstall it, all the while lining up the crank girdle with Loctite 574 on it..and having the confidence it was done right! The crank shaft weighs close to 50lbs if i remember.
#7
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Any reason why you want to rebuild now before driving the car? Rod bearings have been on my annual maintenance list along with the oil pan mods. I have seen may 100K + cars run w/o rebuilds
Decide on a class yet?
Decide on a class yet?
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#8
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I would replace all the front end pulleys belts rollers ect...
I would not tear the engine down,transmission maybe this winter and rod bearing only if anything on the engine.
The S2 does not have the bearing issues.
Do all the wheel bearings and rotors brake lines if not recent.
New exhaust and a header.
Short shift.
I would not tear the engine down,transmission maybe this winter and rod bearing only if anything on the engine.
The S2 does not have the bearing issues.
Do all the wheel bearings and rotors brake lines if not recent.
New exhaust and a header.
Short shift.
#9
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Gregg.
What short shift kit would you recommend?
Don
What short shift kit would you recommend?
Don
#10
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Guys
Don't overfill the oil - this leads to foaming of the oil which puts small amounts of air in the oil system and...there goes #2. Keep oil at full but no more.
Chad - I asked a couple fo people and they all agree. Do the rod bearings and drive the car.Get an oil pan that has a baffle in it.
Or stick to Hondas!!
Don't overfill the oil - this leads to foaming of the oil which puts small amounts of air in the oil system and...there goes #2. Keep oil at full but no more.
Chad - I asked a couple fo people and they all agree. Do the rod bearings and drive the car.Get an oil pan that has a baffle in it.
Or stick to Hondas!!
#11
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Guys
Don't overfill the oil - this leads to foaming of the oil which puts small amounts of air in the oil system and...there goes #2. Keep oil at full but no more.
Chad - I asked a couple fo people and they all agree. Do the rod bearings and drive the car.Get an oil pan that has a baffle in it.
Or stick to Hondas!!
Don't overfill the oil - this leads to foaming of the oil which puts small amounts of air in the oil system and...there goes #2. Keep oil at full but no more.
Chad - I asked a couple fo people and they all agree. Do the rod bearings and drive the car.Get an oil pan that has a baffle in it.
Or stick to Hondas!!
I agree with all the above, (except for the Honduh part
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#12
Nordschleife Master
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You guys have been great. Thanks for all the input. I put an email into Karl from Racer's Edge for some extra feedback. I have yet to hear from him, but based on the input from many he is THE MAN when it comes to all things S2.
C.
C.