Veloce Raptor

Probably depends how far you wanna go:

AC gear?
Heater core?
HVAC distribution system?
Entire dash area?
All carpet & sound insulation?
Stereo + all those heavy speakers?

JC3D

Yes, the weight I have been running at is killing me. I qualify in the middle to front of the BSR's, I get a good jump off the start, try to build some space, and then by the end of the race, John and the rest of the BSR's are on my tail or passing me. During the summer months, at that weight, there really is not much you can do for your tires.

With the new cage, and some interior removed, but not enough to make it a V class car, I am interested to see what it weighs now and what my times are going to be at Laguna.

As far as money, I would need a bit to calculate that, the rowM030 springs and HD shocks saved me some money on the suspension. I have control arms and sway bars from a gt3, 245 and 285 tires, and the necessary safety stuff. The LSD should be considered. When I bought my car, it supposedly had one, but it was trashed. When I got it rebuilt with my transmission, I realized how necessary it is to have.

trackjunky

So John, you are not running Double Adjustable shocks? How about upper shock mounts, etc? My understanding is that you were running at 3200lbs, is that correct? Is 2850 #'s doable?

What wheels are you running?

jrgordonsenior

John how did you get to 3200 lbs from the stock weight of 2910? With you at about 175 including gear it doesn't compute.

JRG

Veloce Raptor

Trackjunky, I just checked my sheet from cornerbalancing the car in January: 2,935 with 1/2 tank fuel, no driver. 3,135 with my 200 pounds in the left seat.

karlooz

the 2910 stock weight is waaay optimistic. that number is dry with no options and no sunroof.

Ray S

Just a guess, but I'd bet you could get a 996 under 2,900 lbs (including a cage) if you were allowed to strip it in a similar manner to the Spec Boxster cars.

karlooz

my last corner weight showed 3050# with 180 driver and 3/4 tank of gas... 2870 w/o driver. this is with a half cage, AC, bumper bars, sunroof, front half carpets, door panels and stereo w/ speakers.

trackjunky

Those 235's aren't holding you back any. But, judging by your height, you should be carrying more like 205 you lanky SOB.

trackjunky

Drop the side window's and the electric mechanisms plus airbags and stereo and you're getting there.

JW in Texas

So, empty you are @ 2800. With a light battery(30 lbs less then stock & weight up high), no: HVAC, bumper bars, sunroof, a fully gutted interior & adding the rest of the cage, I think you can get close to 2700. My '00 Cup was 2685 empty w/FG doors. The rest of the body on the early cars is same as stock 996 other then the tail/decklid. Also remember, Cups have heavier brakes(calipers & rotors), air jacks & full fire systems.

We are talking about dropping the min. weight on Spec Box for next year 50-75 lbs. Lots of us are running that much ballast to make 2700 w/driver plus running fuel ballast & cool suits. You can get a Boxster below 2400 w/FG roof so I think you'll get a 996 down to 2700

Toyo has a good relationship w/POC & you guys already know you need to align yourselves w/them for this thing to fly. Just go with what they spec, tire wise & my bet is it will be Toyo. They make a 245/40/18 front & 285/30/18 for the rear which works well gearing wise. That's basically the same widths as what the cups run although we do run a taller rear. The cup sizes John posted earlier translate to 240 front, 280 rear.

Veloce Raptor

Don't hate the playa. Hate the game.

Paul 996

Seriously.. just follow the NASA format for weight/HP for your classing system. Show up with a dyno readout and weight and that determines your class.

This keeps it simple and doesn't become all about I gotta have x or y to win.

Use a hybrid of this for the spec class to allow fertile comp amongst the 3.4/3.6 996s even some 997s should they want to play.

Basically set some baselines of what is allowable susp wise and then let the #'s determine where you play. A fast/light 996 can go beat up on the big boys and a heavier still more streetable 996 would have to dance with the boxsters. You will end up with a lot more people this way.

Also the formula that you have spelled out does not necessarily make for a fast 996. I see a rash of uneccessary and expensive parts that don't address the car's current limitations for speed and or add reliability.

my 2cts

imho the DA shocks are overkill as are all the control arm bits, you can gain serious speed w/o them and achieve the same level of susp tuning. I am currently at negative 2.7 up front and similar in the back w/o any of the items mentioned. You want to be below 3 and above 2.

the wheel/tire combo is vital for these cars to go fast. The car responds extremely well to a wide wheel/tire up front.

Cooling: the car needs much more capacity to be able to turn hot lap after hot lap. needs a 3rd radiator.

JC3D

Not sure the math on it, but my car was never 2910, and I am yet to see a 996 that was stock. Heavy items in my car would be myself at 180, rollbar, cool shirt, center radiator... that was the last time it was weighed.

When I weigh it next, it will be missing windows and door panels that needed to be removedfor the door bars, and some other parts, so that may give us a decent baseline.

As far as more cars in it, doesn't that take away from being spec? It would just be a MI car at that point, which my car was built to spec for. We only have 2 in POC, but it falls into the R6 race class which is big and competitive.

JimB

I think a spec 996 class is a great idea. Weight with driver should be around 2950. It's pretty hard to get one of these under 2800 with cage. I'd include the 3.6 and make it run at 3000 with a warning that weight will be adjusted as needed. One idea for suspension might be to allow the Sachs dampers and factory spring rates that came on 996 cups (pick a year range). Every race shop in the country has a couple sets laying in the corner now that PCA (and every other series) allows upgrades on cups.

These cars are faster with big tires but work fine with 245s in front and either 275s or 285s in back.