Skip Wolfe

Anyone have experience with the "Fully Electronic Master Battery Cutoff Switch" made by www.batterycutoff.com - CDOC, Pelican, etc also carry it. The racecar I have been assembling has a cut off switch on the dash that I would like to keep, but also need to add an external one for NASA compliance. I figure my options are to either:

1. Hook two in series

2. Use a pull cable(s)

3. Go with this solenoid based cutoff switch which seems to provide the cleanest installation of the three options.

I was curious if anyone here is using one of their racecar and what there opinion is of it. I sort of like the finality of a physical switch, but can't really think why this wouldn't be any less safe.

Any thoughts?

dmoffitt

I was JUST looking at that in CDOC wondering "wtf is this all about / what's wrong w/ a simple physical one" - wonder if it would make sense to replace the dash-mounted one w/ an electrical and move the physical external?

Eric in Chicago

I've got one Skip. Put it in during the off season. Only one race weekend on it but it is working perfectly. 2 switches, one on the outside (drilled into the plexi windshield using a weather proof switch from Pegasus) and one in the cockpit for a fast kill should it be needed.) the other benifit is I can kill the inside switch when I get out and keep the little race battery from getting drained.

I wanted to have a switch in the cockpit as well as on the outside
The switch to a cockpit battery kill switch became a requirement for me when at Road America I missed race grid. I killed the battery as normal when I got out of the car after Q session. Race time, I am getting set to leave for grid, I am all strapped in, turned the key and of course I forgot to re set the kill switch. I unstrap, run around the car to reset the manual switch and 7 mins later I get to grid and it is closed. I had to start from pit lane... The race made for some great video coming from the back but I vowed, never again...

I bought mine from Lindsey. If you have any installation questions ,the owner of Batterycutoff. com is great to work with. I had a couple of questions about wiring and he was just a phone call away. Again, I think it is a great product.
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gieseja

Skip, I was told my one switch in the vent to the left of the steering wheel was all I needed for nasa.

jrgordonsenior

I had one on my 993TT race car for 2 years and it worked great without any issues....

Skip Wolfe

Hey John - the way my dash is already laid out there really isn't a good place to put one near the window. The existing switch is to the right of my gauges near the center of the dash.

APKhaos

I'm installing one right now. Like Eric, I've been strapped in only to discover that the kill was activated. The previous #11 required opening the hood to turn on battery power. I know, I know.

Having two switches was what drove me to the electric kill. I want one on the console, which will be the primary one used, but I also want one mounted externally that the corner workers will see without looking. If they need to use it, I want it to be REALLY obvious for them to hit. Seconds matter in that situation.

Skip Wolfe

Did some searching and stumbled across a similar unit made by Painless for only $89.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

Seems like the only major difference is that is doesn have the aux contacts for the alternator protection.

APKhaos

Skip, that second set of contacts for alternator protection is pretty important in our cars. The Summit stuff looks good, but you need alternator disconnect contacts.

Anyoune found a good solid weatherproof push/pull switch to mount of the cowl or hood as an external disconnect with the solenoid remote kill? I've got something that will work, but maybe someone has found the 'perfect' external switch. Anyone?

Cris Brady

Hey Tony,

This is what I'm using. I bought this at Radio Shack for $5. It's going on 2 seasons now. As you know, I don't shy from running in the rain. It seems to be standing up to the elements. I mounted it in my winshield washer hole. It was a perfect fit.



Hopefully you'll see the picture. I had a lightening strike take out my firewall and router a couple of days ago and my website is up & down as I chase some electrical grimlins.

kgorman

Seems like http://www.batterycuttoff.com is gone?

2BWise

That seems to be vulnerable to debris, which would turn the car off. The only way I see that as being reliable is if you turn it around.

It would be nice if the rules stipulated a certain style of kill switch. From a corner working standpoint having a bit of consistency with how all the vehicles kill switches operate could be very beneficial. Also if you're driving and need the vehicle off NOW I don't want a corner worker hesitating because he has to figure out what type of switch you've got.

APKhaos

Corner workers look for the required electrical cutoff decal. How to activate the cutoff is pretty obvious on most cars. Cris' toggle switch is a bit ambiguous, but most aren't.

The switch I used for exterior cutoff was $8 or so. Its big, positive action, and obvious. I've already had a corner worker run up and whack it to kill the engine.

Team944S2

I have had the solenoid version for about two years without an issue. I have a push switch with LED light near the shifter in one of the console blanks. The other is a push - pull switch mounted in the passenger side window washer jet opening in the hood. The guys from AutoEdge in Minnesota suggested the switches as they have installed quite a few. Similar to Eric, I found I was strapped in ready to go only to discover that the kill switch was not reset.

kgorman

So it appears that batterycutoff.com is out of business. CDOC doesn't have any stock, and they can't get anyone over there.

What about these;

http://www.cartek.biz

Anyone used these?