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Who decided to make sequentials so forward is down a gear and back is up a gear?

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Old 05-02-2008, 04:17 PM
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Larry Herman
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Originally Posted by Geoffrey
I'll stick with my H pattern manuals, its easy for simple racers like me to understand......
Except for dogleg boxes, then 2 is 1, 3 is 2, 4 is 3, 5 is 4 and reverse is 5...
I was waiting for some smarta** to come up with the 901 5 speed pattern.
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Old 05-02-2008, 04:30 PM
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I was waiting for some smarta**
Well, that would be me...

The S2 CS is white...
Old 05-02-2008, 04:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Geoffrey
Except for dogleg boxes, then 2 is 1, 3 is 2, 4 is 3, 5 is 4 and reverse is 5...
Originally Posted by Larry Herman
I was waiting for some smarta** to come up with the 901 5 speed pattern.
Or 928
Old 05-02-2008, 04:43 PM
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Bryan Watts
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Originally Posted by MTosi
true enough, but at least its either H pattern or Dogleg, and every time you shift you use the clutch and if there is an extra gear you know where it is.....its just more consistant and well established....there doesn't seem to be any established method yet to sequentials.......some you use the clutch on downshifts not up shifts....some you dont.....some you have to blip....some you don't........some no need for the clutch at all.....when u get into a seq car you have to ask......any standard you realy don't have to ask how it works.
Who said you need to use the clutch just because it's a H-pattern? Most dog ring H-pattern race boxes can be shifted without the clutch just as easily as a race sequential. You can also setup computer controlled throttle cut for no lift shifting as well. With a sequential, you still need to blip when you shift down a gear...the only question is whether you will be doing the blip or whether you program the ECU to automatically do the blip for you.

In general, if you're using a sequential or H pattern race gearbox, you only NEED to use the clutch to get started from a roll...after that, using the clutch is only needed to be easier on the equipment, though I would argue in most cases, if done correctly, you can shift without the clutch without causing any additional wear. I've driven race boxes that were actually harder to shift correctly when using the clutch. And you always need to blip on a downshift to match revs, the only question is whether you'll be doing it with your foot or whether the computer will take care of it. Same goes for lifting on the upshift...either the computer will do it for you, or you'll need to back off on the throttle 10-20% while you slide into the next gear...when done correctly in a race H-pattern, it often feels like the transmission is pulling itself into the next gear for you.

Seperate out for a second the "sequential" BS in the BMW, Ferrari, etc street transmissions. Those transmissions aren't sequential at all, but rather normal H-pattern syncroed gear boxes being shifted by a computer controlled set of hydraulics. And they all have clutches, even though your foot isn't actuating them.
Old 05-02-2008, 05:03 PM
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M758
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Originally Posted by MTosi
When you look at it that way it makes perfect sense, but when you look at it from a perspective of going "up" and "down" its obviously opposite. I was just noticing this the other day driving a customers BMW and it had it "backwards" from racecars so I was confusing myself and trying to think which way made more sense.....

My 02 530i automatic has it the right way. Forward = down, back = up a gear. I actually have seen a procedure to reverse it on the older e39 5 series that have it the other way around.
Old 05-02-2008, 05:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Bryan Watts
What Geoffrey said. It makes way more sense when you think about the dynamics of a car...especially in a single seater with aero where you may be braking at 2+ G's.

I believe some of the single seater sports racers that run motorcycle motors and transmissions actually have it "backwards" due to the layout of the gearbox.

I was just at a shop with two D Sports Racers that were fairly identical except that one had push for going up the gears and the other had pull to go up the gears. When people jump in the car that has 'push' to go up a gear they often have troubles and have issues going into braking zones. A 'pull' shifter seems to be much more intuitive for a driver to deal with in the heat of a battle.
Old 05-02-2008, 05:21 PM
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Who said you need to use the clutch just because it's a H-pattern? Most dog ring H-pattern race boxes can be shifted without the clutch just as easily as a race sequential. You can also setup computer controlled throttle cut for no lift shifting as well. With a sequential, you still need to blip when you shift down a gear...the only question is whether you will be doing the blip or whether you program the ECU to automatically do the blip for you.

In general, if you're using a sequential or H pattern race gearbox, you only NEED to use the clutch to get started from a roll...after that, using the clutch is only needed to be easier on the equipment, though I would argue in most cases, if done correctly, you can shift without the clutch without causing any additional wear. I've driven race boxes that were actually harder to shift correctly when using the clutch. And you always need to blip on a downshift to match revs, the only question is whether you'll be doing it with your foot or whether the computer will take care of it. Same goes for lifting on the upshift...either the computer will do it for you, or you'll need to back off on the throttle 10-20% while you slide into the next gear...when done correctly in a race H-pattern, it often feels like the transmission is pulling itself into the next gear for you.

Seperate out for a second the "sequential" BS in the BMW, Ferrari, etc street transmissions. Those transmissions aren't sequential at all, but rather normal H-pattern syncroed gear boxes being shifted by a computer controlled set of hydraulics. And they all have clutches, even though your foot isn't actuating them.
None of this is realy news to me.....occasionally when I get lazy on the street and I don't feel like moving my left foot I'll just downshift without the clutch, I normally double clutch, so shifting without the clutch is second nature. Im just pointing out that when you sit in 90% of cars with a standard its petty straight forward, you don't have to ask anything, unlike going from a DP, to a RS spyder, to a Formula atlantic, to a F1 car, to a RSR, or GT3 cup, most of which have slightly different sequentials and you have to sit there and ask, how should I use this?

The S2 CS is white...
I was just wondering if it was one of the old Firehawk cars?
Old 05-02-2008, 05:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Bryan Watts
Who said you need to use the clutch just because it's a H-pattern? Most dog ring H-pattern race boxes can be shifted without the clutch just as easily as a race sequential. You can also setup computer controlled throttle cut for no lift shifting as well. With a sequential, you still need to blip when you shift down a gear...the only question is whether you will be doing the blip or whether you program the ECU to automatically do the blip for you.

Race last weekend the guy who qualified on pole lost his clutch during the Q session. He started from the back of the grid because we had to give him a push to get the car fast enough so he could select first. He ended up winning his class and was on the tail of the overall leader when checker flew. Clutches are overrated
Old 05-02-2008, 05:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Circuit Motorsports
Race last weekend the guy who qualified on pole lost his clutch during the Q session. He started from the back of the grid because we had to give him a push to get the car fast enough so he could select first. He ended up winning his class and was on the tail of the overall leader when checker flew. Clutches are overrated
Do most FC drivers use the clutch? I don't think I ever used the clutch in FM. The car shifted better without it and you could LFB 100% of the time.

As for getting the car started, I like VIR's elevated and sloped false grid. It helps with starter and clutch issues. I heard it was built that way because Harvey, the owner, is into Vintage race cars.
Old 05-02-2008, 05:55 PM
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I use the clutch to start. Last year I had a rough engine and had trouble getting it to run at the right temps so blipping was impossible. I got use to just jamming it down the gears. We checked the dogs after 2 weekends and they were pristine too. If I move it right it's hardly noticeable. My RPM splits are usually no greater than 700 RPM. No worse for wear than the guy who was blipping shifts.

I don't know of any FC guys that use the clutch other than to get the car rolling.

Harvey is a great guy and I wouldn't be shocked that was the reason it's sloped. Road Americas is opposite and a slight uphill drive. Sucks for starting off. I'm looking forward to spending the summer at VIR with the FC. Although I'm trying to work a deal to end up with a 98 FF instead.
Old 05-02-2008, 05:55 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Circuit Motorsports
I was just at a shop with two D Sports Racers that were fairly identical except that one had push for going up the gears and the other had pull to go up the gears.
Given the relatively simple architecture of "unit" motorcycle engines and transmissions, all you'd have to do to convert between the two is to reverse the arm on the shift actuator...if the pushrod is above the centerline of the shifter shaft, make it below, and visa versa. That's how you do it on bikes...really.
Old 05-02-2008, 07:35 PM
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On my 964 TIP, "UP" is forward, "DOWN" is back. Had Don *** trying to drive my car for a couple of laps at the Glen, the shift pattern fooled him a number of times as his sequential is the "right' way.

I'm actually contemplating rewiring the TIP the other way.
Old 05-02-2008, 07:39 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Wreck Me Otter
BMW did it both ways in the 5-series...the first year it was one way, the next year they switched...confused some people...LOL...but all you had to do was pull it out and reverse it and it would work the old way....
e39 and e46 were screwed like that on their auto box with the suggestion lever. IIRC '02 was the year they switched patterns.
Old 05-02-2008, 09:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Professor Helmüt Tester
Given the relatively simple architecture of "unit" motorcycle engines and transmissions, all you'd have to do to convert between the two is to reverse the arm on the shift actuator...if the pushrod is above the centerline of the shifter shaft, make it below, and visa versa. That's how you do it on bikes...really.
Yep, It's just a preference thing. The owner of one likes it the opposite way so that's the way they made it. The only big difference between the two other than that is paint color.
Old 05-02-2008, 11:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Professor Helmüt Tester
Why do street bikes have "UP" upshift patterns, and race bikes have "DOWN" upshift patterns ?

Jus sayin......
You need to get ready for the upshift as you accelerate out from the apex of the corner. With the street pattern, you'll basically be at the apex/maximum lean with your toe underneath the lever - getting ready to upshift. Your toe is likely to drag on the track which may either knock your foot up/force the trans out of gear, or else trap your toe beneath hard parts of the bike...

With the race "reverse" pattern, your foot stays on top of the lever in preparation for the upshift so there are no issues with ground/foot/lever interference

This assumes corners are 2nd gear or higher


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