Trying to get into racing
#31
For example, if you want to WIN, and you only have $5K in your pocket now, and you only have $500 a month to blow, go with karts. How long it takes to win will depend solely on your talent and ability to learn.
For $30K up front and $800 a month, you could have a winning spec miata setup.
For $30K up front and $800 a month, you could have a winning spec miata setup.
I'll throw another option out there... you could do an ITB 924 for about $3-10k initial cost (let's face it, the cars themselves are about $500 - just a question of how bad you need to get to the front) and about $500 a month. And yes, that's for a win-capable car. Slightly slower than a SM, maybe a second or two at most tracks.
And yes, I know of an ITB 924 in the Detroit area that needs a new owner (and I don't mean mine!).
#32
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From: Durham, NC
Wow, that's a lot of money!
I'll throw another option out there... you could do an ITB 924 for about $3-10k initial cost (let's face it, the cars themselves are about $500 - just a question of how bad you need to get to the front) and about $500 a month. And yes, that's for a win-capable car. Slightly slower than a SM, maybe a second or two at most tracks.
And yes, I know of an ITB 924 in the Detroit area that needs a new owner (and I don't mean mine!).
I'll throw another option out there... you could do an ITB 924 for about $3-10k initial cost (let's face it, the cars themselves are about $500 - just a question of how bad you need to get to the front) and about $500 a month. And yes, that's for a win-capable car. Slightly slower than a SM, maybe a second or two at most tracks.
And yes, I know of an ITB 924 in the Detroit area that needs a new owner (and I don't mean mine!).
The class is becoming reallyy pricey.
#34
Jay Motorsports is the Great Lakes region CSR. He is maintaining my Spec Racer Ford this weekend at Road Atlanta. I just blew a head gastket, and he will have a new engine in it by morning.
http://www.jaymotorsports.com/page_Rentals.php
__________
Jason
#35
#37
If I were doing it over again and all I cared about was learning to race (rather than learning to drive which DE is perfect for), I would buy an already built $2,000 - $5,000 IT car and bang around in SCCCA. You don't need any experience to get a license, just show up and survive their licensing school. Then figure out what series to run.
#38
This is a great great thread and is very informative. While I hear everything that is being said, and how the specific car comes later in the process, any input on the world of racing with 912s? My son, who isn't driving yet but is karting, would like to buy a car to restore with the idea of ultimately racing. Among other cars, he does like 912s. Is there anything out there, or are they in a gap between pre-'62 356s and 911s?
(I say pre-'62 because I remember reading somewhere that something about the '63 and newer had either a different class or some other reason the earlier ones were preferred).
(I say pre-'62 because I remember reading somewhere that something about the '63 and newer had either a different class or some other reason the earlier ones were preferred).
#39
FWIW, a while back Racer Magazine did an article on what it would cost to reach F1 (not drive, just get a test).......$8.7M.
Karting was the first rung on the driver development ladder.....$100K for a full season competing in the Snap On IRL Stars of Karting series (considered the top tier karting series) with a top team.
Ask my wife.
#40
This is a great great thread and is very informative. While I hear everything that is being said, and how the specific car comes later in the process, any input on the world of racing with 912s? My son, who isn't driving yet but is karting, would like to buy a car to restore with the idea of ultimately racing. Among other cars, he does like 912s. Is there anything out there, or are they in a gap between pre-'62 356s and 911s?
(I say pre-'62 because I remember reading somewhere that something about the '63 and newer had either a different class or some other reason the earlier ones were preferred).
(I say pre-'62 because I remember reading somewhere that something about the '63 and newer had either a different class or some other reason the earlier ones were preferred).
"First race cars" should be considered "disposable". Thats's what's going to happen to it anyway...might as well start getting used to the idea. Don't race something that you have an emotional attachment to.
#41
I have a track prepped 912. They are cheaper than a same year 911 to track but not by much. Tires, brake pads and rotors last longer than a 911 but the car itself is as expensive to improve and maintain. 912s are longhood 911s with a 356 motor and like early 911s are getting more rare and no longer disposable as in the past. The 911 guys snap them up and convert them to 911s the 356 guys snap up the 912 motors and drive them while saving the orginal 356 motor in the corner of the garage. I do not recomend tracking a 912 at all. 912s handle great and better than a same year 911 in the corners but by todays standards they are just too expensive, too slow and less safe overall than a more modern car. Look at 944s and 924s for low cost Porsche track cars. The best way to reduce cost is to increase your mechanical skills and do your own work.
#42
I have a 944 that I race. It is about as cheap as I can race a car and still have shot at doing well.
The other aspect of keeping costs down is doing ALL the labor myself. In 8 years of tracking the car the only farmed out work to a shop was the weld in-role cage, first corner balance and aligment and some head machine work. Everything else including, engine work, body work etc has all by a DIY effort.
I could NOT do it any other way.
#44
several thoughts come to mind:
go slow in pca de's. By this I mean "get" as many hard azz old time racers as instructors as you and they can tolerate; delay going solo until forced to go solo.
On the other hand, grab as much solo time in a different org, ie chin, pboc, nasa; many of which include open passing sessions
learn to drive a really slow car quickly and smoothly
then do the local pca and nasa race schools (get as many practice starts as possible) and the five day Bertyl Roos VIR school or something similar
have a blast
Jack
go slow in pca de's. By this I mean "get" as many hard azz old time racers as instructors as you and they can tolerate; delay going solo until forced to go solo.
On the other hand, grab as much solo time in a different org, ie chin, pboc, nasa; many of which include open passing sessions
learn to drive a really slow car quickly and smoothly
then do the local pca and nasa race schools (get as many practice starts as possible) and the five day Bertyl Roos VIR school or something similar
have a blast
Jack
#45
I have a track prepped 912. They are cheaper than a same year 911 to track but not by much. Tires, brake pads and rotors last longer than a 911 but the car itself is as expensive to improve and maintain. 912s are longhood 911s with a 356 motor and like early 911s are getting more rare and no longer disposable as in the past. The 911 guys snap them up and convert them to 911s the 356 guys snap up the 912 motors and drive them while saving the orginal 356 motor in the corner of the garage. I do not recomend tracking a 912 at all. 912s handle great and better than a same year 911 in the corners but by todays standards they are just too expensive, too slow and less safe overall than a more modern car. Look at 944s and 924s for low cost Porsche track cars. The best way to reduce cost is to increase your mechanical skills and do your own work.