Veloce Raptor

Only downside of e gas IMO is that when you left foot brake it cuts the throttle irrespective of how much you push the gas pedal.

Larry Herman

I think that on the faster tracks a 3.6L 996 is the better car. I still like my RSA though. Just need to find a few more ponies. I don't know about the E-gas, but I do know that many have said that it is next to impossible to put a 3.6L into a '99 chassis. You may want to check with Jim Breakey though, because to the best of my knowledge he did that in his '99 996.

993944S2

For information on building a 996 call Karl Poetl at Racers Edge. He has built one, may be for sale, and has gone through much of the pain.

trackjunky

E-mailed Karl early yesterday.

Do the cup cars use E-gas or cable?

trackjunky

Bump^^^^^^^^

Still looking for pros and cons. I e-mailed PCA rules to find out about GTB. This might be an interesting option for the 996's.

So far it sounds like, with the new rules, a '00 or '01 3.4l 996 in D would be a better car than an RSA. Am I reading you guys correctly?

penguinking

FYI...in my '99 996, mine's still on the throttle cable so i can left foot brake. is there a reason why '00 and '01's and not '99s? i didn't think egas came until the '02s anyway

John H

here's one FWIW

http://www.grand-am.com/Messageboard...ts.asp?ID=5599

trackjunky

Is there any truth to the fact that the engine failures are do to poor oil recirculation from the cam bank back to the sump?

If not, what modifications did Porsche due to the 3.6l engines to solve the problem with the 3.4's?

DHinkle

Karl (www.racersedge-inc.com) put a new 3.6 into a 99 996. It can and has been done with some additional work. I would recommend a 3.6 996 to run in C stock. Very competitive class and growing each year. The depreciation curve of the street car helps with the development costs.

rabjohns

I currently DE an '04 996 GT3 in group 1.

I would like to club race next year. I am trying to work out what car:

- Take my stock "ish" GT3 and turn it into a race car - regret not getting a cup

- Buy a cheaper 944 and learn how to find momentum with less cost but miss the power and spend a lot of time fixing things that break

- Buy a 993RS to retain the back end experience, worry about mechanicals

- Pony up for a cup car the car I think I really want. Ignore the costs.

Are my assumptions about each car true? Has anybody faced the same decision?

Phokaioglaukos

I'm in the same boat.

I have rejected converting my '05 street GT3 into a race car. It's too nice a car to put a cage into and make unstreetable. It'll also never be a cup car.

I've almost rejected getting a 944 or 951, but I am renting a 944S2 to race at the Glen with NASA next month, and that may change my mind. The 951s seems ver fragile and I've been spoiled not having to do any real maintenance or repair on my GT3--it just runs. The 944s seem under powered to the extent that they would not be fun in DEs, and I still want to do DEs.

I've considered keeping the GT3 for DE and buying a SSM Spec Miata to race with SCCA in SM and SSM, with a track support company transporting it to/from the track and doing trackside support. That would eliminate the need for a pickup and trailer. I'm renting a Miata to do a two-day SCCA racinc school next month.

I've thought about selling the GT3 and buying pickup, trailer and race 996 for racing in PCA and DEs.

I've thought about selling the GT3 and buying pickup, trailer and race BMW for racing in BMW club racing and DEs. There are more BMW races in nearby NE tracks than there are in PCA--2 more at Mid-Ohio and one at VIR, too.

The last three options are the current front runners.

Flying Finn

I like air-cooled stuff more but for this I think it would be wiser (= cheaper) to get the 996. There's a lot of them available, they're cheap, fast & have a lot of potential. Plus, i.e. if you blow up an engine and it's less than $10k.

Check the Racer magazine's for sale ads in the back, there's been couple of 996s (one is the red/black car that's been running in Speed world challenge if I remember correctly). I don't know anything about them but I've seen them there couple of times.

trackjunky

New info in our debate from the PCA Website:

Can you discuss the Porsche Motorsport North America competition lubrication system for the 996? Which cars need it? Full competition cars, active time trial cars, autocross cars, even spirited rural driving cars? Does it void the factory warranty? (Could a factory modification really void the Factory warranty?)
I think that this problem may be highly exaggerated. I know a lot of people running 996s in track events and have still never heard of a real engine failure sighting. It is almost like flying saucers—we keep hearing about them, but we just never see them.

In their testing Porsche has obviously created a condition where the engine can harm itself or they never would have issued that warning about putting sticky tires on these cars. However, as far as I know this problem has not carried over into real life. I have never heard of one failure caused by this condition.

The potential problem derives from the fact that the layout of the engine is a mirror image from side to side. The cam chain drive on the left side of the engine (cylinders 1-3) is at the flywheel end of the engine and on the right side (cylinders 4-6) is at the front of the engine or at the rear of the car. The oil return pumps (scavenge pumps) are driven from the chain drive end of the exhaust camshaft, so on the left side the pump is at the rear of the engine (that’s the end closest to the driver) and on the right it is at the front of the engine or at the rear of the car. The supposed problem is that under braking in a corner all of the oil in the right side of the engine can be thrown up towards the rear of the engine (flywheel end) and you can end up with too much oil in the valve cover and not enough in the oil sump.

Porsche has come up with Oil kit 996 for the U.S. market. This kit consists of a replacement oil return pump for the right side of the engine which has two scavenge stages. This kit is available form Porsche Motorsport North America, and is currently advertised at $1325 plus shipping. You must also remove your right valve cover and send it to Porsche Motorsport for machining. The machining is included in the price of the kit. The reason that you must send your valve cover (cylinder head cover) and cannot do this on an exchange basis is that the valve cover also provides half of the bearing saddles for the camshafts. The cylinder head, valve cover and bearing saddles are machined together as a matched set and must remain together.

The Oilkit 996 is part of a Powerkit for the 996 that is available in Europe.

This Carrera Powerkit increases the 996 engine’s power to 320 PS horsepower. The Powerkit has other changes in addition to the oil scavenge pump modification, but the other engine modifications that increase the power are not available here in the US.

I guess that if you really want to be safe you should add this oilkit anytime you modify the car for competition. The final decision should be based on whether or not you run “sticky” tires. You should be safe with the standard street tires. I don’t know about the warranty, the implication in the Porsche Motorsport North America ad is that if you modify your car for competition there is no warranty. You may want to check with them.

Bruce Anderson-Panorama-8/00


Now, the Oil starvation Correction Kit has a part number of 996.107.012.58. Is anyone able to find this and see if it's still available?

Noel

I'm with Jack. In the US, the RS (America) is really not that different so for a track car, you may be able to find a better set up 964 for much cheaper than a comparable RSA.

Paul 996

Having that done as we speak to my 99 with a 3.6L X51, it's been done before and is cookie cutter for the shops that know how. No issues, all stock, only negative is you lose your cruise control. Now I know how much that matters to this crowd.