I have one data point, but it is from the senior tech at one of my local dealerships. He stated that Super Blue brake fluid is good stuff, but once one puts it in, one can't go back to the yellow OEM fluid. He stated that the mix of the molecules in the Blue with the OEM fluid will destroy the braking system. Never heard this before. Any knowledge out there?

 

Never heard this wither but I am no Porsceh mechanic either. I use Super Blue but ATE also makes the same fluid in a gold color so that you can see whne the blue is flushed out.

 

That tech is an idiot. You can go back and forth, no problem.

Regards,

Steve

 

Pegasus has a good chart of all the brake fluids that are compatible.

http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/gro...pID=BRAKEFLUID

 

That senior Tech needs to do some reading,...Ate's Super Blue and Type 200 are chemical twins and identical except for the blue dye.

We've been using both products interchangeably for 10+ years with no problems in hundreds of cars.

 

I can't speak to that issue, but can say that I changed from ATE Super Blue to Castrol SRF in my GT3 this past spring. I did a brake bleed last week, and the SRF fluid was blue! This surprised me as SRF is clear....

Is this normal. and if so, how long does the *dye* last in the system?

-B

 

I switched from ATE Super Blue to Motul with no problems.

 

Just use Castrol SRF and be done with it.
You'll never have to think about brake fluid again.
(yes, it's $70/bottle, but it's cheaper/easier than trying to explain to your dry cleaner about what really happened to your driving suit)

And BTW, I think your mechanic may have gotten confused as to the make up of ATE Blue....perhaps he thought it was DOT 5/silicone based?

 

Likely the entire system wasn't bled completely the first time. Clutch slave may not have been completely bled as well.
ATE Blue will more often than not leave a blue 'ring around the bowl' on plastic fluid resevoirs.

 

Thanks for the clarification. I have been very pleased with SRF so far! Go for it ECS!

-B

 

ECS.....has your tech also said not to mix different oils together?

 

Even flushing all the devices in the fluid system you will still have some of the older fluid left. Flush, drive a few days to mix the old and new and flush again. Do this once again a few days later. Each flush reduces the % of older fluid left. I did some testing and it took 3 flush/stir/flush cycles to get the levels of the older fluid down to get the full dry boil point of the SRF. An ABS system adds in a whole nother can of worms. Some can be cycled to flush existing fluid with little effort and some are not so easy.

 

Agreed. And you won't need to bleed as often, recovering some of the difference in cost. For me I bleed less than half as often as I did with ATE and Motul.

 

As others have already said there are no issues switching to the gold. It does take forever to get all the traces of blue out of the system, especially the abs.

 

The only difference between ATE blue & yellow is inert blue dye