Geoffrey

For the suction, I simply got a drain plug at the local foreign autoparts store with a hex head of the same thread pitch as the current allen key drain plug. I then machined it on a mill to make the hex thinner and to ensure a flat even surface for the washer. The banjo bolt setup is a standard -8 piece that I probably purchased from Goodridge, but it is widely available. I used Jiffytite quick disconnect fittings and just went through their catalogs because they have hose ends and male or female ends and are available in straight, 45 or 90 degree so you decide what works best in your application.

I don't think it is a good idea to pump cold gear oil through the system because you want the gear oil to get to 180-200 degrees quickly, and you don't want to make the pump do additional work. I simply dump the gear oil on the differential which is the part I think produces the most heat in the gearbox. I don't think it necessary for a spraybar to lube the gears, however, at some point in the future, I might try to build one in my gearbox as a challenge.

I have not restricted the flow in my system and it delivers full -8 volume when on.

Tom W

Jeff:

You may have missed where Geoffrey said that he uses his MoTeC to turn the pump on and off at 200 °F. He's not pumping anything when the temp is below 200, so no issues with cold lube on the gears.

Are you stilll running the stock /05 gearbox? (You imply that you have 2 transmissions, bot /05's?) I switched to a /32 this year and could not be happier. I finding the shifts crisp and faster than the old box. I believe most of the difference comes from the /32 and having gone to solid motor and transmission mounts (and not the Fabcar shifter, although it's very nice).

Geoffrey

You can also simply put the pump on a switch and turn it on after about 20 minutes and you'll be fine.